First, I am sorry to post such a thread as I am sure you get bombarded with these requests. Last time I was in the paddling forum a year ago it seemed as if there were 100’s of discussions on topics like this and my intent was to wade thru them for info I am looking for.
Second, I am recently relocated to Wisconsin and have quickly realized their is more opportunity fishing on the lakes here and not the rivers. (Not that there isnt quality river fishing) After evaluating my options and finances, I have made the decision to get a canoe.
My parameters are as follows;
I will fish both alone and with a partner. Ideally something lightweight would be helpful for when I am alone
I prefer to use a trolling motor and plan on a side mount vs the square back, unless I hear differently
I mostly Fly Fish, but my companions will probably spin cast and I may also do some
I dont have a price range persay, but I also dont see/know/understand the difference between a $400 Coleman and a $2000 high end model. What am I looking for in the differences?
Based on the above, what are some recommendations and what criteria should I look for in making a purchase? Most likely I will buy used so Im not certain I care about which specific model, but am curious what does the extra money get me for higher end models and what sizes/dimensions are better suited to this type of use. I may sometime, but rarely will I use this on a river so stability is probably better then the ability to whitewater it.
It seems prices can vary widely, yet the offerings are similiar so I feel I am missing something in my research. Ive seen $2k and $3k canoes and they are still 84 lbs, so what does that money get you??
Curious here, and thank you in advance for all your responses
I agree with BBW, I bought my Coleman for $150 at a garage sale, check your local ad paper, put a wanted notice on Craig’s list etc. you will find one. The thing I don’t like about my Coleman is not its weight its the bulk, I need a better way of transporting it.
prices vary according to materials used on the build. roto-moulded vs. fiberglas vs. composite(kevlar). in aluminum its the gauge(thickness) of material and number of ribs, type keel (if one), rivets etc. some squarebacks are wider than others thus creating a more stabile platform. also the “bling” adds up…cane seats vs. webbing etc. just take your time and do the research. ive had my canoe for about 30 years and now having a wood/canvas canoe being built for me in maine. they are a great source of enjoyment so be sure you get the one that will serve you best.
Chuck,
If I were to buy another canoe for needs similar to yours, there is one I would look for (new or used), & that’s the Wenonah Fisherman in Royalex. It’s 14’ long, 52 pounds, wide & stable, yet said to paddle well for a short & wide canoe. One review I read said it was the only canoe the reviewer could get in standing up with no fear of capsizing.
Hey, we’ll miss you at the Virginia Fly Fishing Festival next month. How are you doing up north?
Mike
I am definitely going to miss the Festival and most of all your Fudge! I was back in VA for work in December and my friend who was at the festival with me last year and I ran up to Waynesboro for a quick trip. Did well on soft hackles, so dont forget them on your trip out.
I have seen many on craigslist as Eric mentioned, including a Coleman for $250 which seems reasonable…only again Im not sure what I am looking at. You mentioned the short, wide canoes generally not being easy to maneuver. Is this a concern if your primarily using a trolling motor? I suppose there are always time you will need to employ paddles of course, but does that minimize the concern of manueverability at all?
Wisconsin is a beautiful place Mike, different then Virginia but it is home, family, long winters, and all. Lets just say if Spring doesnt crack here soon, you might find me naked in the middle of a frozen river with a fly rod in hand having a nervous breakdown
Shack Nasties are in full swing
Good hearing from you and thanks for the advice everyone~
Chuck,
To clear up my earlier post, the shorter canoes are EASIER to maneuver, just generally a lot slower to paddle, & not sufficient for an extended canoe trip such as the Boundary Waters of northern Minnesota. I have owned a number of canoes over the years, & other than stability, my #1 factor in a search for canoes now would be weight. At least for someone my age with a “less than 100% shoulder”, I would look to keep the weight under 60 pounds.
Check out the Wenonah website & reviews on their “Fisherman”. It would definitely be my choice & you can find them used at a decent price.
Thanks for the tip on the soft hackles…will have some with me. What river(s) did you fish?
Mike
Just the South river in Wayneboro. I think a total of 6 or 7 bows that day, largest being around 15 inches. The really seemed to hammer it as it flew by in the various riffles high in the pools. Of course, that will be a full 5 months earlier then when you are out there!
I think I will try the South while at the show. They were getting trout high-sticking through that quick, deep little run just downstream of the bridge last year. Nymphs or buggers may be the ticket there.
You’re in a beautiful part of the country now Chuck, just too short of a season for me. Good luck, stay in touch & let us know if & when & what canoe you end up with.
Mike
I would suggest that you go to the “Products Reviews” section on the Paddle.net website (http://www.paddling.net/). There are lots of reviews on lots of boats. There is a tendency for the reviews to be very positive - kind of a love the one you’re with response. But there is still plenty of good information. You might also take a look in the “classified ads” section and see if anyone near you has a boat for sale that you might be interested in. Used canoes can be a great deal but hard to find.
No one has mentioned this, and I’m not the the one to explain it, but there’s a big difference in hull design between a canoe suitable for fishing and one used to negotiate white water rivers.
I suggest you Google the word “tumblehome” for more insight
Boats, canoes and kayaks included, generally do one or two things well. A white water canoe isn’t the kind of canoe you’ll want to purchase if your primary intent is fishing. That is not to say that you can not fish from a white water canoe or use a sporting canoe for white water. You can, but you have to know the trade offs.
Setting price aside for a moment, I suggest that you look over your list and determine what is it that you want your canoe to do most. If you will be solo fishing and only occationally fish with a partner, I suggest you look toward something you can handle by yourself both on and off the water - e.g. light weight and maneuverable. (Whether the canoe is designe with 2 seats of if you have to use a jump seat, you will always have room for a partner.)
Maybe it is important for you to be able to stand up and cast. If that is the case you will want a canoe with a wide bottom. Keep in mind, what make up in stability you’ll loose in speed and maneuverability. There are always trade offs.
You also need to look at the area(s) where you will primarily use your canoe. It it will be in a shallow, rocky area, you might want to stear clear of fiberglass or canvas/wood construction.
An electric trolling motor can be used with just about every canoe using a side mount. Double end canoes are faster and more manuverable than square end canoes. So unless you are using a trolling motor or small outboard 99% of the time, a square end canoe isn’t necessary.
Do your homework and figure out what canoe works best for you. Don’t settle on buying something used when you can get the type of boat you want new. Think of it as an investment. A well build canoe is something you can pass on to your kids.
Above all else, don’t buy a canoe until you’ve put it in the water and tried it out. Take your fly rod with you and make several casts. You wouldn’t buy a car without taking it for a test drive, right?
I would be curious to hear opinions on one of these cedar plank canoes. I found one based on the Hiawatha design for $1200. Right around 15’ long, 34" wide and a little over 50 lbs (which was an estimated guess)
Doesnt come with anything, making it alot more than I hoped to spend, but the design and vintage looks are very appealing IF performance is rated good or better for fishing.
I have a 14 ft Alum. Sportspal square back Available 12-14 & 16 Ft pointed or square). 44 lbs to start, can be eazily handeled by one person. It has 3 keels tracks very nice on still water, and has oar locks (rowing - very nice if the wind come up and your by your self …and sculling - haven’t fingure that out yet) and sail mount. Also the canoe is lined with high density foam, which cuts down on noise and cold to touch (alum very noisey and cold) sponsons for extra stability. I find her very stable, routinly stand and drift (slow water) while fly casting.
Google will find their website if you’re interested.
I am a canoe user myself…I even guide from it…Indian River Canoe is a good cheap canoe and is what I use…I have had it 4 yrs and put well over 3000 miles pushppoling while standing…it also has a square back for trolling motor etc…they weigh about 65lbs…they have many models and nothing over $600.00… it fulfills all my needs to fish the flats here in south florida
Probably Real Pretty, any wood boat is going to take upkeep. Go out and look at a well used canoe, most of them have dings and scratches if not gouges in them. I want a canoe to take me back in the brush and toolies, I want to be able to land on a beach and fish from it. If I have to worry about how pretty it is I am not going to use it like I want to use it.
I guess its the difference between a classic 40 ford show truck and a 75 dodge half ton. both are trucks both have there place but not the same place at least not for me. I love to look at wood canoes but I wouldnt want one as my only canoe.
I have two sporting good stores here in town with last years canoes still on display, I would guess that If I went in and asked to speak with the manager I could get either of them to give me a good deal so he could clear it off his inventory.
Look around and find somthing with in your price range, there is a lot of summer left.
To me flat bottoms are an accident waiting to happen. Get a flat bottom canoe on it’s side and you are now swimming. The act of fly casting will cause the canoe to rock side to side so secondary stability is a must. I highly recommend a shallow arch or shallow V bottom with keel for your area. Here is something else to consider about your area. Being in a lake where you cannot see the shore and a approaching storm is a lot more dangerous than being in the middle of a narrower river where the shore is close at hand. In rough water good secondary stability will save your life whereas good initial stability only will get you into danger fast.
I bought a rogue River 14 T.K. at Bass Pro. 14 footer made of polyetheline. A tad heavy, about 80-90 pounds, but is a shallow v with keel. I added a center seat and anchoring system. I also have a side mount for my trolling motor. I hardly ever use the trolling motor as this canoe is very easy to paddle and manuver. Decent initial stability, great secondary stability and can handle Class II whitewater. I am very satisfied with my canoe. I think I paid $299 for it brand new. Add in the anchor system, trolling battery, center seat and other odds and ends brings it to about $450.00
1200.00 is cheap for a good cedar plank canoe. the up keep all depends on the finish. if it is an epoxy finish there is minimum up keep. spar varnish will take alot.
My advice is to bite the bullet and buy the very lightest canoe you can afford. If you have to borrow money to do it, by means of using a credit card or whatever, then do it. Think of buying a canoe in the same terms you would think of buying a car; it’s an important purchase that impacts your life on many levels and you want those impacts to be pleasant ones.
Sure, you can find any number rotgut boats that weigh a ton and handle like pigs. And once you buy one of them you’ll discover that you don’t use it much. Soon it’s sitting in the back yard getting destroyed by ultraviolet radiation and corrosive bird poop.
Go with something made of kevlar, especially if you’ll be fishing mostly on lakes and ponds. Since you won’t be exposing the hull to abrasion and pounding, like would happen when running riffles and rapids on rivers, a kevlar hull will last for many years.
And think hard about whether you REALLY will be fishing with a partner that often? I’m a firm believer that people enjoy the most success fishing when they’re alone. And by “alone” I mean physically separated from other people, even their trip partners, by some significant distance. This applies whether you are fishing off the bank, or wading or fishing out of boats.
Consider your partner for a moment, too. Ask yourself: Which of the two of you is the most avid fisherman? If the answer is YOU, then I suggest buying a lightweight kevlar solo canoe. This will be your boat. It’ll have just one seat located amidship. There will be only one captain (you); only one brain controlling the boat (yours).
If you go with a solo canoe as your boat of choice, then it’s up to your less-ardent fishing partners to buy themselves a tandem canoe. This is only fair if they are the sort who only go fishing if there’s a buddy to help them paddle. You should not feel obligated to purchase a larger, heavier tandem canoe just because there MIGHT be times when other people want to go fishing with you. If your partners love paddling tandem canoes so much and occasionally want you to go fishing with them, then let them buy a tandem. Rest of the time, you operate fast and light by fishing out of your solo.
This is the BEST piece of advice ANY of us have offered. I have owned a number of canoes & excessive weight was the biggest single factor in getting rid of the ones I had (weight + paddler’s age=OUCH!)…now I’m just waiting to get up to John Whites & build one of those light cedar strips!
Mike
