i agree by kevlar layup or get a wood strip that has an epoxy finish
Joe is right…that is the bests advice I have heard…I agree 100%…I must say again Indian River Canoes are only 65lbs…I guided yesterdayfrom a 14ft’r for the clients 1st bonefish…its a little tight but still gets it done in the shallows…a 16ft canoe would be even better…brand doesnt really matter but weight does…good luck
Mike —i built 2 out of redwood—i still have the forms for the second one that i made from Moores book—“Canoecraft”
Rent or borrow before you buy.
For solo take a long hard look at a kayak. (There are tandem yaks, too.)
If you are in the southern half of WI, consider a trip to Rutabaga near Madison. They are one of the few places I know of where you can test paddle. A channel in their back yard leads out to a good sized lake.
I second the light kevlar idea.
Rent or borrow before you buy.
For solo take a long hard look at a kayak - excellent in the wind. (There are tandem yaks, too.)
If you are in the southern half of WI, consider a trip to Rutabaga near Madison. They are one of the few places I know of where you can test paddle canoes and kayaks. A channel in their back yard leads out to a good sized lake.
I second the light kevlar idea.
Great, great advice everyone. I think what I set out as my initial parameters are still accurate; lightweight, stable, etc. The link explaining stability was wonderful. I will still probably go with a double, I anticipate having a partner 50% of the time.
This cedar plank canoe, the seller is saying it is “fiberglassed”…same as epoxy or something that requires extensive upkeep? I dont mind some upkeep, it is a beautiful peice of work as well. Have a look and tell me what you think;
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/boa/594656852.html
Again, thanks everyone for all the advice
hi cheli38
i made 2 of those—the hull is first made out of wood around a form and the strips glued together and stapled to the form—the staples are then pulled out of the form and fiberglass cloth stretched over the wood and saturated with epoxy or polyester resin—then its taken off the form and another layer of cloth is put inside and done the same—the glass is then totally embedded and sanded and smoothed and importantly varnished with a u.v. protective boat varnish—uv will break down the epoxy
thats my story and my $.02 worth—pretty canoe!
the only upkeep is to make sure the varnish is good—i never redid mine —my first one is about 25 yrs old
I might add that there are considerations for making a canoe the way they did—“rocker” lets the canoe turn in current --the keel if it has one prevents the turn—big keel—tracks straight and good in a lake—lotta rocker—squirrely on a lake but turns easily in current—the balance between those is how it handles for you
If you have the ability to get that canoe you need to jump on it. Even if you should decide that you do not like it you can turn a profit on it and still sleep at night knowing someone got a great deal on it.
The larger canoe will allow you more room for gear should you decide to go on extensive float trips like, say, around the great lakes. You can carry the tent and rest of your camp in this canoe with ease. You cannot do that in a kayak or solo canoe because they are very limited on physical space. Also this canoe will allow you plenty of room to stretch out those cramped legs on long days on the water without having to exit the craft.
The hull on that boat should deliver good initial stability and great secondary stability. It should track and turn well too. Hull designs like that usually strike a good balance. The glass finish means minimal maintenance and when the time comes you will be able to refinish it yourself. If the weight is bothersome you can purchase a canoe dolly. As proud as you will be, justifiably so, of that canoe, you won’t even notice the weight. Also in lieu of roof top/truck bed hauling you could purchase a small, inexpensive trailer.
Regardless of all other things you will never find a canoe or kayak with a hull of man made materials that looks that sweet. Heck, I’ll be the first to tell you that the polyethylene hull of my canoe is just ugly. Kevlar is even worse.
Nighthawk,
It is out of my price range but it isnt unfathomable. It seems like a good deal but obviously Im new at this, plus i need to factor in paddles, seat rests, etc as that is the price on the canoe only. My factors;
Weight=this fits, non issue. He says its around 50 lbs
Stability=design seems appropriate for my intended use, from what I know
Durability=somewhat an unknown, but at least some minor upkeep which I am ok with
Price=up there, more then I hoped to spend
Hmmm. Maybe time to go beg the wife, eh?
Tell her that it is like purchasing a classic muscle car or fine firearm that is in pristine condition for half of what they are worth at market value. This is an investment and so long as the maintenance is kept up it will only increase in value over the years. If you have a Bass Pro Shops, Gander Mountain or Cabela’s near you then you can find Rogue River canoes like mine for about $300 or spend a few more bucks for a Old Towne. Both are fine canoes but, whatever you do, make certain to get as many of the features that you want/need on the canoe at the outset.
I have a Rogue River 14 TK. It is a 14 foot, modified vee with keel. I paid something like $300 for it at Bass Pro Shops. It is a bit on the heavy side, about 80 pounds, but because of it’s generous width you can get your shoulders into a good carrying position inside the canoe. I added a center seat to mine and I am in the process of modifying that seat with a high back bass boat seat. Even though this canoe has a keel and modified vee hull it tracks well, turns easily, has good intial stability and great secondary stability. Bear Creek Canoe shop on EBay sells a really nice web center seat kit at nice prices.
This is what Bass Pro has (and me) fir $299.99:
http://www.sonomaoutfitters.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=ROGUE!070
wow…its listed for $700…I like the way that one looks and the width…I might do some investigation myself
Come on out, Tuber. Actually I’ve fished from my cedar stripper for almost 20 years. It’s the Minnesota Canoe Association’s Explorer, a 17 footer that weighs 50 lbs. It’s a tandem, although I mostly fish alone by using a canvas stadium seat placed in front of the back thwart. Legs go under the yoke in the middle. I use a kayak paddle to get places, a regular paddle to maneuver. I’ve adapted Joe Hyde’s dual anchor system to it, also. This has such miniscule draw that you can paddle upriver in all but fast water. It’s a beauty. Plenty of room. It was originally a racing canoe, meaning long, sleek and with no rocker. We done the BWCA numerous times, so you can pack stuff in it. It will turn on a dime if need be, but it won’t spin in the wind (that’s due to rocker). I’d highly recommend anyone to build one. Talk about the satisfaction of fishing with flies you’ve tied and rods you’ve built, wait until you launch your first hand-made canoe. JGW