I am getting ready to try my hand at it. I will be building [url=http://www.butlerprojects.com/boats/john/index.htm:1aced]this[/url:1aced], in a 12 foot version (8 footer pictured). It is a stitch and glue design. I have been researching materals, and I think I can keep it under $300. Any comments or advice?
[This message has been edited by Sagittarius62 (edited 06 June 2006).]
Haven’t built that one myself, but I have heard good things about Butler plans. Several of the guys here have built boats, Roger Stouff comes to mind. Maybe they’ll jump in here and give you more info.
[This message has been edited by Ron Eagle Elk (edited 15 June 2006).]
I’m working on finishing my third boat and the one thing I can tell you(or anyone building a boat) is that it ALWAYS winds up costing more than you figured. Also, better quality wood saves on both epoxy and sanding(the worst but most important part). Take your time and wear a respirator when sanding and it’ll go fine. Good luck and have fun.
You do not read FAOL regularly? Lots on here. Surprised you missed all of them. Last week featured on the MAIN PAGE! 
A few years back I built a Snowshoe 16 from a kit found in this site. [url=http://www.gaboats.com/boats/:41c2b]http://www.gaboats.com/boats/[/url:41c2b]
16 foot, made to haul in a weeks gear for two. Design weight is 35 pounds, but mine probably weighs a bit more because I opted to build traditional cane ( synthetic) seats framed in ash. It is basicly a basket work of 3/8" spruce stringers which run end to end and bent ash ribs 1/4 X 5/8", all spaced in a gridwork of about 6". Kevlar yarn is srtung over the outside from gunal to gunal on the diagonal again about 6" apart . The skin is aircraft dacron which shrinks when ironed. Makes for a truely drum tight skin stretched over a strong but light basket frame.
Kit cost something like $125 and included everything except the wood and about $4 in brass wood screws I chose to use on the keel and rub rails and two quarts of urethane varnish. Wood – one 16 foot 2X10 from the local lumberyard. I picked through the stock for a knot free and straight grain board. The ash should have cost something like $50 but a couple of the lads down at a small local mill were so excited by the project that they just gave me my pick of some 6" ash flooring.
I have had it loaded as heavy 500 Lbs. ( estimated) and still had 10 " of freeboard.
I once put a nice finger sized hole in it with a 20d dock nail,6" of masking tape ( THE basic repair kit) and it was fine for a whole week of hard use.
With just my 250 Lbs it only draws 3 or 4 inches and rocks too much for my liking but it just doesn’t want to tip far enough to swamp.
You will see quite a few other boat plans on this site. Even if you never build one it is an interesting design.
AgMD
I’ve built (and repaired!) DN ice boats. Since you’re researching materials, Google up Gougeon Brothers in Bay City. Their W.E.S.T. epoxy system is good stuff plus they have tons of plans, how-to’s and hints for working with wood in a marine environment.
Yes, everyone I speak to says W.E.S.T Systems stuff is the best. There is apparently a E.A.S.T Systms line as well, that is a little less expensive? Thanks for the Gougeon Brothers tip.
W.E.S.T. = Wood Epoxy Saturation Technique
I ain’t fer sure what E.A.S.T. would stand for!
[url=http://www.noahsmarine.com/United_States/Epoxies-us/East_System-us/east_system-us.html:20769]E.A.S.T System Epoxy[/url:20769]
I built a 14 foot duck boat that weighted in at 50 pounds, using heavy canvas for the hull covering, coated with Airplane Wing Dope (Paint for sealing cavas wings, and fuselages). Might not be up to standards for White Water, but they are great for ponds and other areas where you need a draft of 4 inches in places. It can be pulled or padded with and oar, with little effort.
I got the blueprints at the local library, the book was printed in 1938. Built it with only hand tools, although I did have the lumberyard cut the piece to size for assembly.
I think you could do the same pattern using a fiberglass matting, but that would add a lot more weight to the hull. I like my 50 pound 14 foot Canvas Duck Boat for fishing.
I have tie downs on the interior sides so things do not come loose. and I have enough floatation, in the bow and stern (double ended) besides more under the floorboards and it between the frames forming the hull sides to keep the boat afloat if the hull is breached. As always wear a personnel floating devise, any time you are on the water, (that includes standing in it). ~Parnelli
[This message has been edited by Steven H. McGarthwaite (edited 07 June 2006).]
Built the Montana Pram over 10 years ago, it was an easy build and has held up well.
Parn, good side of a canvas boat is that it is easy to patch, bad side is that it is easy to hole. I bowfished out of a 14’ canvas canoe for years, and it was always dicy whether we’d make it back without swimming to shore for a patch job.
Washougal,
Butler’s version of the Montana Pram? That is very cool. What type of ply did you use?
Very cool, it’s very rewarding to fish out of a boat built by yourself. 300 bucks is about right for a one man pram. I use 3M 5200 as an adhesive sealant when asembling the chine to the sides. Easier to use and remains flexible in the joint as small light boats flex alot in the water.
This thread got my curiosity going so I e-mailed Paul Butler, explained that I wanted a flyfishing platform for two people and asked for his suggestion. Got an almost immediate reply that he would suggest the John Boat that Sagittarius62 has in mind, also in the 12 foot version.
I ordered the plans on Monday and they arrived today. Nice spiral bound booklet explains everything about building these boats in a very readable form with lots of pictures and drawings scattered throughout the step-by-step instructions that even I could follow. Included are numerous builders tips about changing the basic design to better suit your specific needs.
Since VEE is starting to have some shoulder problems that will affect her rowing her pontoon boat, this may be just the ticket for lake fishing.
Thanks for bringing it up Saggitarius62.
[This message has been edited by Ron Eagle Elk (edited 15 June 2006).]
[This message has been edited by Ron Eagle Elk (edited 15 June 2006).]
Sagittarius62,
Saw that same Butler design a few years back in an Outdoor Life. They loved it. Good luck.
Eric “nighthawk”
American veteran and proud of it!
Sag…,
Yeah, I have a comment. I think you have a great idea here. Not just an idea but a very interesting and worthwhile project!
I looked over the site. I love the looks of that row dory too. What a cool project for a guy.
Do you plan on trailering this boat? Maybe it’s small and light enough for your truck or topper?
Either way it’s a great choice. Let us know how it turned out and how you use it. I’m a woodworker by hobby so this stuff just sits well with me!
Seal her up well and take the time to do a good job. Otherwise for the next 10 years you’ll be looking at your mistakes and wishing you’d…!
Jeremy.
Hey Sagi,
Over the years I have probably built a
dozen or so small craft. Each was very
satisfying and at the time ideal for my
fishery. My suggestion is use the best
materials you can afford and pay a lot of
attention to detail. Measure twice and cut
once takes special meaning in boat bulding.
I know of no other project where attention
to detail is more important or rewarding.
Good luck! Warm regards, Jim
“Keep your pencil and your plane sharp!”
[This message has been edited by Jim Hatch (edited 15 June 2006).]
“…measure twice and cut once”…
Evidently Jim you don’t have one o’ them there “wood stretchers” eh?
Me neither. Too 'spensive!
Jeremy.
Guys, I guess one of the great things about those Butler boats in their simplicity. No nails or screws. It’s all held together with epoxy. From what I gather from the plans book, it’s a rough cut, trim it up after it’s assembled kind of deal. Perfect for the first time boat builder, or woodworker for that matter.