So I found a break on my fly lline last weekend. I wasn’t sure what to do so I cut the line and tied on my fly. It took some analysis to figure out where to make the cut. I was able to do a perfect basic cast but anything else came off a bit funky.
Just wondered what can be done under the circumstances when you don’t have another reel or additional line.
BTW - it was 5 wt line
A bit more information would help. Was the line DT or WF? Where was the break, and what about the break made you think you had to cut the line? Once on a 6wt line I caught in on a brace in my boat and stripped off about 1ft of coating, that made me discard the line. But some cracks can be accommodated, at least for a short while. Please describe your ‘break’ as distinct from a crack. regards, Greg.
If you are using a double taper line the answer is obvious…turn it around. On a weight forward line it would depend on where the break is. The first six inches or so is usually untapered. If the break is in that portion of the line or very near the front of the taper it should make no difference to just attach the leader and fish. The farther back the break is the more of the weight that loads the rod you are losing and the more poorly it will turn over. If you have lost all or most of the front taper the line will be thick at the end and splash more also. If you have lost all or most of the head and are trying to cast just the running line portion it’s hopeless .
Broken lines can be repaired by splicing with a section of braided mono of sufficient diameter to insert the fly line. About 8 inches of braided mono, usually 35lb or 50lb usually works. Insert ends of fly line into braid so they meet in the middle. Secure each end of braid with a nail knot made from 10 to 12lb test mono or from a spectra (gel spun) braid like spider wire, power pro, etc. Coat nail knot with pliobond, loon knot sense, or similar flexible coating. If a floating line, a tiny tab of super glue applied to the broken or cut ends of the fly line will help prevent water from wicking into the core of the line.
I have repaired many lines like this and they work fine though there is a bit of noise when the repaired section goes through the guides.
are you asking a question or telling us what you did to fix your line?
repair it
http://flyfishmagazine.blogspot.com/2007/06/repair-broken-fly-lines.html
Thanks all. I was asking what to do under the circumstances since it had never happened before. It was weight forward line and the “crack” was about 8 feet up.
Guess I might not have had to cut it after all. You live. You learn.
Assuming you’ve already tossed the front taper that you cut off, so you no longer have anything to splice (which can be done by epoxy-splicing the stripped core of one side into the core and coating of the other, btw), you’ve got a couple of options. You could needle/nail knot on a heavier than normal (for a five weight) leader butt and make a light line bugging line for warm water (or a Clouser-type line). You could add a short loop to the new tip and loop a longish furled or braided leader to make a passable line–not “whisper quiet” but usable for nymphs, streamers, and medium to large dries.
CC
Buy an AirFlo line, I had one crack and they replaced it free.
If it just a crack or even a break a down and dirty fix is splice at break and cover with heat shrink tubing, this will get you through till you can get it replace and does not rune your trip.
Ghost
Super glue and shrink tubing … usally carry both in my vehicle kit… handy things to have