Being a converted plastics fisherman, I cannpt resist the temptation to toss my fly into the thickest weeds and slop. Of course this requires some kind of weed guard. I have been using flies with mono loops successfully. Any other ideas on weedless flies?
I find that an inverted hook does a lot to keep me from hanging up. I toss small clousers around scattered pads for pannies and can drag the fly right up and over the top of the pad without hanging up at least 90% of the time. Also, if you have a copy, take a look in the latest Fly Tyer magazine. There is a pattern called (I think) the wire-gill bucktail. It has a bit of a bend-back in the hook and some wire on the shank to keep it inverted. The bucktail flows back over the hook point and should help some too.
I fish directly in the salad alot.
A single mono loop doesn’t last long so I usually put on two… crisscrossed
I forget where I saw it but one real good fly for the thick stuff is a bendback Dalberg diver
i have no idea what a inverted hook is. can anyone explain or maybe post a pic?
It’s a fly tied in such a way that the hook rides point up (think crappie jigs). Google Clouser minnow for a really good example, or check the fotw archives.
I put my flies into the thick stuff. As dudley mentioned, mono weed guards often do not last long.
Some guy named Lefty suggested I might try plastic coated multi strand wire instead of mono because of its durability and the properties that allow it to be be bent back into position. I tried it and it works quite well, I use the Sevenstrand brand in #17 through #40lb test. Tie in just as you would mono. You do need to have an appropriate tool at your tying bench to cut the wire.
The second type of guard that I used is a two legged snag guard made from single strand wire, typically #3, #5, or #7 wire, depening on hook/fly size. The strands come off the eye at an angle toward the hook point. In front of and slightly below the point, they are bent back parallel to the point and extend to just beyond the hook bend. The legs are spread somewhat so that they are just below and to each side of the hook. I find this type works better for larger sized flies worked through brush, rocks, sticks, and kelp.
We use wire similar to what tailingloop describes. Ours connects, as in one wire doubled, and hooks over the point. It is just like the wire weedguard done commercially on the Eagle Claw weedless worm hooks available everywhere. It is the simplest and the very best we have found to use, for us, as we toss into the very thickest of the poop. And an animal that attains it’s groceries by stunning them with a sudden crush of it’s jaws, cannot logically be deterred by a mere sliver of wire. 
…lee s.
[quote]Being a converted plastics fisherman, I cannpt resist the temptation to toss my fly into the thickest weeds and slop. Of course this requires some kind of weed guard. I have been using flies with mono loops successfully. Any other ideas on weedless flies?
[/quote]
Being a former plastic fisheman, you may be familiar with this type of product:
http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog. … rchResults
Works well on pretty much any bass “fly”, but you have to be cautious to not retrive too fast, or the fly will hang up on sticks/branches. The other draw back is, to replace the weedguard, you have to snip the fly off, and re-tie.
briansII
I have had great luck purchasing hooks with built-in wire weed guards, and tying my larger flies on those.
Eagle Claw 449WA-1 is one such hook. I like the doubled-wire, as it hangs up on the hook point really nicely, but springs out of the way on a strike.
I use mono too, sometimes a mono loop, and some times just a straight piece of mono near the eye - works to spring the fly in a “hop” off of snags, and doesn’t cover the hook point. Better for smaller flies…
It’s tricky, but any number of flies can be tied “hooks up.” Foam flies are easily tied hooks up. We did a swap a year or so ago called a “hooks up swap” and the range of flies was impressive. Mine was a foam Dahlsberg Diver. With deer hair, trimming it “upside down” works just as well. Tied this way makes them pretty much weedless. When tied this way you don’t need the weed guards. JGW
Like Fish Recycler, I use hooks with built in wire weed guard. I like the Eagle Claw for the price but also use the Gamakatsu version because it has a longer shank. I use them for poppers, sliders and various other flies.
Lee S
What type of wire are you using to make your weed guards? And where do you get it? I’d like to add weed guards to some of my flies that are tied on long shank hooks.
I don’t recall what Lee uses, but I use single strand wire of the type sold in Saltwater Tackle shops for toothy critters. Sometimes it is called trolling wire. I use .014" for 2/0 and larger hoods, .012 for for hooks down to about size 1. Some tyers use piano wire. Some even iser wire guitar strings for some smaller sizes.
BrianII said,
?Being a former plastic fisheman, you may be familiar with this type of product-Laker Stickguard.?
Brian,
Thanks for pointing that one out. It was nice to see it is available from a well known source. The nice thing abou that one is that you can make most any fly a weedless fly.
White 43 said,
“Mine was a foam Dahlsberg Diver. With deer hair, trimming it “upside down” works just as well. Tied this way makes them pretty much weedless. When tied this way you don’t need the weed guards.”
I would really give a lot to see a picture of that fly. It seems to me that foam would be more durable than deer hair.
There were a lot of other good ideas here too.
thanks everyone.
I tie my slop fishing flies on a weedless hook like the Gamakatsu 65110. I bend the weed guard straight forward while tying, then bend it back when I am done.
For large Bass flies, I sometimes use hooks that come with a wire guard. Most of the time I add a guard made of at least 30# test Mono or Fluoro. I have been tying Strymphs and Sculpins and using the guard on all of them. I have even tied some #8 and #10 nymphs using a single strand, I drop down to 20# test for the little guys. I have have lost a lot fewer flies and my catch rate seems the same.
For large Bass flies, I sometimes use hooks that come with a wire guard. Most of the time I add a guard made of at least 30# test Mono or Fluoro. I have been tying Strymphs and Sculpins and using the guard on all of them. I have even tied some #8 and #10 nymphs using a single strand, I drop down to 20# test for the little guys. I have have lost a lot fewer flies and my catch rate seems the same.