I also use wax either from a birthday candle or small votive candles. I have fly a Fisher GT 40 fly rod that I have been using for about 30 years with no ferrule problem. I have had to rewrap the guides twice on that rod, but I have had no ferrule problems using wax.
I keep my rod in a rod/reel carrier when not in use. How does dirt get on the wax? If the rod is protected while the ferrules are apart dirt cannot get on the ferrule. When the rod is together, dirt cannot get between the ferrules.
One way is if you apply the wax from the base of the ferrule toward the tip. This can carry dirt on the exposed section of the rod toward the ferrule. So applying the wax in the opposite direction from the ferrule tip down carries and dirt away from the ferrule.
How does dirt wear a ferrule? It can only wear a ferrule if there is motion between the sections of the ferrule. If the ferrule is tight, there is no or little motion. Wax prevents motion. A ferrule without wax is likely to move, hence more wear.
Dirt needs two things to wear a surface. It needs to be present and it needs motion. Wax prevents motion. Keeping the rod in a case or tube and waxing tip down reduces dirt on the wax.
On to nose or body oil. As has been said, it contains salt. It also contains fatty acids, and fatty acids can corrode metal ferules. Don’t use body or nose oil.
On to stuck ferrules. Ferrules get stuck because rod sections are hollow. When we put rod sections together, we seal the rod sections. When we fish, the rod can get warmer than when we put it together; or when the rod is kept together in a hot car the air in the rod expands and leaks out of the rod section. Then when the rod cools down a vacuum forms and prevents the rod from coming apart.
What needs to be done is to break the vacuum. Sometimes the usual maneuvers do not work. This is what will. Take a can of compressed air that is used to clean electronic products; turn it upside down and spray the fluid on the ferrule. The rapid evaporation will form frost on the ferrule, and differential cooling break the seal.
I have to be listed among those who wax and use a birthday candle to do so. The wax helps the rod stay firmly together when fishing, but also allows the rod to separate more easily when you are done, as the wax is flexible.
I also agree that dirt is bad, so when I put the rod in its sack/case I wipe off the wax and periodically use a solvent on a Q-tip to clean the female end. I like the idea of waxing toward the butt.
If your rod is totally stuck, I have created ‘rod tappers’ and used them effectively two or three times. Don’t reply that it will break a rod because it doesn’t.
This is a device that I ?invented? to separate a stuck rod (my own, 2X) when all else fails. A saltwater FF?er in Florida quoted me on the web after I had emailed him this suggestion and he got his 12wt Sage apart, so I guess this idea has some credibility. Actually a picture here would be worth 1,000 words. To get an image of what you are trying to achieve, picture putting a giant clothespin (the pinchy kind with the spring) around your rod. You will make it loose enough to slide about 2" or 3" up and down, on the MALE side of the ferrule, and then slide (whack) the device up the rod (with a slight bit of force) to tap the top section off. It takes about 6 or 8 taps. So create something that looks like that, made out of pine (softwood).
Method 1) Find a 2"x2" about 12 inches long, and drill a hole through it about 1.5" from the end - WITH the grain. The diameter of the hole is just bigger than the male portion of the ferrule. Then split the piece of wood lengthwise, through the center of the hole. Method 2) Find 2 pieces of 1"x2" and bind them together with elastics. Drill a hole about 1.5" from the end - using the seam as the centerline of the hole. (Remember the image of the clothespin.) Clamp the wood around the rod with elastics and tap the top section off the bottom (male) section.
I’ve been following this thread since I posted it. As usual, there is far more to this issue than I thought. You all have shared some wonderful insight, and I want to thank you for it. The rod that had a stuck section was a Sage FLi, 9ft 5 wt. It is a graphite rod. I think what happened is it actually did “seal” as Silver explained. I tried holding it behind my back and using my knees as was suggested to no avail. Anyway, I now have the rod and look forward to using it in a couple of weeks. Again, thank you all for your tips and suggestions … I will certainly be using them.
I started waxing my ferrules after several of my fly rods came apart when I was casting. (Many spey casters actually tape their ferrules together.) In one case I cracked a ferrule. Since I started waxing, none of my fly rods have come apart, as I’m now putting their pieces together with a bit more pressure. (I don’t fear them getting stuck together.)
Wow, this is terrible advise and should NEVER be done!!
I had a conversation with Master bamboo rodmaker Ron Kusse about this.
First lets start with putting the rod behind your knees to take it apart. AWFUL-AWFUL-AWFUL, this is a perfect way to break your rod, when the rod comes apart after doing this you have no control after the pressure is released, your in an awkward and out of balance position you can easily fall landing on your rod or the tip can stick into the ground or hit anything else around.
Second, a metal ferrule on a bamboo rod is a precisely machined piece on nickle silver, NEVER sand them with anything, including steel wool even of the finest grade.
Rod recommends using paraffin on graphite ferrules but never on a nickle silver ferrule, on a nickle silver ferrule he recommends using a bar of plain ivory soap, as wax can build up and friction can cause to to “clog” a ferrule.
you sit in a chair when you put the rod under your knees, Ive used this and it works. I believe that Kevin was speaking of uncleaned abused overloaded sticking ferrules when talking of the steel wool, I don’t believe that anyone suggests wax for steel or silver ferrules and not all rods have the finely tuned ferrules of Ron’s Rods. As far as Ivory soap goes what do you do to clean it out of the ferrules when they get dirty I can’t see that it would collect any less dirt than paraffin in fact I would suspect it would collect more as I think it is softer than wax.
I am truly sorry if some folks are not smart enough to sit down while doing this technique for freeing stuck sections. It works and has been recommended on this forum before, MANY times. There are many, many ways to perform any given task concerning building or maintaining a fly rod or other fishing rod. Just because a good builder doesn’t agree, does not mean that technique is not valid. I am a good builder of high quality rods and I will be the first to say that I don’t know everything about it or that my techniques are the ONLY way to do something. BTW, the original post was about a GRAPHITE rod that was stuck.
Second, very few nickel ferrules are machined to close enough tolerances right out of the box to fit. You must use abrasives to lap them to a good fit.
As for cleaning a female ferrule, I stand by my technique there as well. Perhaps I should have been clearer. You don’t pack the ferrule with steel wool. You apply it to the drill bit lightly like you would dubbing when tying a fly. I say to use a drill bit because the flutes grab the steel wool and help move it. Secondly, I did say gently, did I not? You are not scrubbing, just loosening the dirt. I have restored the fit to many, many ferrules, chromed brass and nickel both, with this technique. It is valid and does work.
If you do not like my techniques, just say so. Plenty have. They work for me and many others.
No need to say a “I’m sorry” Kevin! You were giving a good effort to help a person in need.
There are some very good penetrating solutions out there that will not do damage. This should loosen or slicken up the frozen ferrule. Some times a little prevention can keep a problem from occuring. I give the ferrule a blast of canned air as this will remove sand and other debris. I also wipe it down with Armour All from time to time. I have not had problems doing this, but I am sure that I will hear about it if there is.
A really neat version of your firestarters can be made by soaking little cut up squares of Celotex ceiling tiles in the melted wax.
Just a little one inch square does a good job. These are a Boy Scout standard for rainy days and are convenient to carry.
I will keep that method for separating ferrules in mind. I do know a lot of guys, including myself, that do not always have someone with them, though.
I’m not sure about the lubrication, though. He talks about doing this every 6th time he goes fishing but doesn’t say anything about cleaning the ferrules ever. If you are going to lubricate, you have to clean. Most folks don’t clean. If you doubt me, watch your buddies tear the gear down. Do they clean anything before putting it away? Once it is put away, it is unlikely that it will be pulled out to clean it.