I didn’t want to hijack anyone’s thread, so I’ll pose my questions here.
When you buy a rod blank, does it come with the ferrules already on the rod? (graphite)
Are some snake guides sold that do not need to have the feet shaped?
What threads are easy to wrap with?
Where can you find a chart or guide for spacing the guides?
Where can you find a chart or guide for the sizes of the guides?
I really like the small, superfine style of rod grips. Where can I find something like that?
If I don’t find a grip that I like, do they make pre-made grips that you can shape yourself?
What sort of rod wrappers do people prefer? I like the idea of being able to move the rod rests and being able to move the thread tension device.
I’ve seen different sizes of reel seats and I’m not sure about the differences. Are they for smaller/larger weights of rods?
There’s 10 quick questions. I’m a complete rookie to rod building. I think it’s something I’d like to do in my basement over the winter months. I’ve got a whole room downstairs that I’m not really using for anything. So I will be able to set up down there and not have to worry about breaking things down.
Thanks for any insight you guys can give me. I’ve been looking at rod building tools (and following the threads) and I’ve been looking at blanks. And there sure is a lot of different stuff to choose from.
Yes the ferules are there, unless you are building spigot furles
Most Snake Guides need some shaping to help with the wraps properly going up the foot.
Thread may be a preferance but should not affect the wraping
Hook & Hackle has a chart
Hook & Hackle has a chart
You may have to search for the grip you want but if you have a lathe you can fit one to your liking.
My wraper lets me move the thread and tensioners.
You must have a very well lighted clean area to do the build in. An overhead fluorsent light will also help with guide alignment as it will show a high lighted stripe down the center of the blank.
P.S I have all this stuff in a closet along with 2 rod turners and it’s just gathering dust!
Well, Maybe you can help each other out. You sell your stuff to him. You make greenback/He gets his equipment and I get my 3% finders fee. See we are all happy
You can also shape a grip with a rasp and sandpaper - and start out with your own rings to save some money.
You should avoid silk thread at first, and poly thread needs careful treatment.
you’re in good hands here. everyone will want you to be successful so we’ll walk you through the build.
blanks are a matter of preference and how much you want to drop on the project.
if you want really killer easy set upguides look at the Snake brand universal guides. a little pricey but worth it IMHO.
Thanks for the replies. They’ve helped me out a bit and of course raised a few more questions.
From looking around, I think I like the look and function of the Flex Coat hand wrapper. Hook and Hackle has it on their site. I did see a kit on Mudhole that has a similar wrapper that has a finishing motor. Which leads me to a question…does that RPM’s of the motor matter much? I see them ranging from 6RPM to 36RPM. What are the pro’s and con’s?
I see that the thread comes in different sizes. A, B, C, D…I think that I see size A most places. What are the differences? And what about color preserver? Just get thread that doesn’t need it? Betty, I don’t think I’d be doing any purple wraps any time soon. Unless it’s for a donation or something of that sort. Purple just isn’t my color. I wear it once a year.
Do you need to do any wraps at the ferrules, or are they just cosmetic? And how about the tip top? Is there any need for a wrap there?
And how does one keep the winding check in place? Just make a wrap butting up next to it? Or does it get glued in place?
I saw some style of grips that are similar to what I like. I will try one of those first to see if I like it. Then I may step up to maybe shaping my own. I have access to a lathe at work.
Once the pieces are epoxied into place, is there a way to get things apart in case of a screw-up? I figured I better ask this question sooner, rather than later.
Thanks again for the replies. They are helpful. I like to gather as much info as possible before jumping into something.
Brian;
The speed of the motor is a preferance. I started with a cardboard box with notches and and egg timer, turned the rod every 15 minutes 180 degrees.
Size “A” has been my choice of threads
Color preserver is another personal choice. Practice wraps on a fiberglass arrow shaft and coat them with and without and see what happens when you apply the epoxy.
Yes wrap the ferrels.
Emersing the pieces in boiling water will soften the epoxy so you can take them abart.
The wraps will hold the check in place as you can manupliate them with your thumbnails.
Brian,
The little/fine grips I use come from JStockard and Hook and Hackle. Both priced well under $20. They can easily be cut shorter (I usually cut mine to 6.5" to fit my hand). The agate I get from Goldenwitch and or Mud Hole. The guides from Hook and Hackle. Mud Hole and H&H have excellent spacing/size guides.
Practice on dowels. Practice, practice, then practice some more! To remove an epoxied guide, lay an exacto knife almost parallel to the wrap and slice along the foot of the guide. Peel the wrap away with your fingernail. Jacks idea of boiling water is good. Easier … use a hairdryer to soften the epoxy. No boiling splashes! Use orthodontic elastics to hold the guides in place while they’re wrapped. If you don’t know any kids with braces, or a friendly dentist, the elastics can be ordered from … ummm … I think it’s JStockard. (good time for a senior moment!) Tiger Eye blanks are beautiful, too!!!
Purple is very regal on a blank … it deepens to a rich jewel tone when epoxied.
I’ve been doing a lot of reading while I’ve been working out of town. I’ve read that two coats of finish are recommended for rod wraps.
And I’ve also read about people getting bubbles in their wrapping coats. So that leads me to some more questions:
How do you avoid bubbles in the epoxy? And what do you do if you get bubbles?
How long do you wait after putting color preserver on the wraps to do the epoxy coat?
How long do you wait after applying the first coat of epoxy to the wraps before you do the second coat?
Are single foot or double foot guides easier to wrap? I think I prefer double foot guides.
I’ve also read that the epoxy will set up in a couple hours…but wont be completely “done” until maybe a day or two later?
How long do you leave the rod turning on the finishing motor?
Also while reading, I learned that the tip top needs to be wrapped, too…even though it is glued on.
I’ve really been looking over the Hook & Hackle, J. Stockard, and Mudhole websites.
Thanks again everyone for the great information. It really helps.
Bunishing the wraps evenly will help with the bubbles. Also the less you work the epoxy the better.
Mix your first coat of 3 equal parts of Epoxy, hardener and denatured alcohol (a trick I learned from Kaboom1)
Do the same for the second coat to get a nice even finish.
I don’t use color preserver so can’t answer.
Allow 8 hours between coats of epoxy. I’ll do one in the evening and one in the morning.
Single foot guides make for a faster build.
Properly mixed the epoxy will set up in a couple of hours and the rod can be removed from the turner.
A rule of thumb is to wait 72 hours before fishing it.
The tip tops may be glued on but some use a hot melt glue (it can be heated and repositioned). It could get hot enough in the trunk of your car to loosen it.
It is almost impossible to wrap the guide exactly in position so don’t wrap so tight you can’t manipulate the guide into position with your thumb nails.
How long do you wait after putting color preserver on the wraps to do the epoxy coat?
Jack hit most of them but the one he didn’t answer… Depends on the CP brand and how heavy/many coats you do…but normally 3 hours after the last coat of CP is fine.
I dug this stuff out of the closet and dusted it off. I haven’t built a rod in 3 years and have no thoughts of building one in the future. The only things missing is the epoxy and plastic stir sticks. There are several color threads, cork reamers, small alcohol lamp, bunishing tool given to me by the late James Castwell, even a spline finder!! The thread holder is movable and has tensioners
The 2 rod turners cost around $150.00. I’ll let it all go for $100.00 plus shipping. I’d like to see it used again.
Fantastic! I don’t need any of them, but, at that price, if you didn’t have a taker quickly, I’d a snapped it all up!
<does he know he’s crossing over “that” line of no return??>
