I have a question for folks here. While I like to stay with traditional tying methods for most patterns, some I have come to tie quite differently over the years than the original. The one that stands out the most is the Elk Hair Caddis. The venerable EHC as we know and love it accounts for probably 75% of my dry fly fishing. And although I tie it differently, it remains extremely durable, seems to float better, and catches just as many fish. But my question is? How do you tie it? While at the bench tying some up, I got to thinking about this. And do you see any of the differences changing the patterns effectiveness on the water?
Here is how I tie mine:
1: Start thread, wind base, and stop thread at a point just above the base of the barb.
2: Tie in Saddle hackle
3: Dub abdomen
4: Palmer saddle hackle forward
5: Tie in cleaned and stacked elk hair (wrap down tightly to flare wing, then lift hair buts and build a slight chin of thread?.and whip finish. If size #10 or larger I actually apply a slight dub’d chin)
6: Lift hair butts and cut head to size.
I prefer genetic saddle tied 1 size smaller than a dry would call for. I think the saddle tend to taper a little less than neck hackle over the length of the feather.
I tie in the hackle at the rear and palmer forward, excluding the wire rib.
I don’t cut my hair to length until after I?ve whip finished. Using the butt ends to help in lifting the hair out of the way to build a chin and whip finish. (the chin adds a bit of durability in my opinion)
This is out of curiosity only. Not saying my way is better. Far-from it. But I am wondering how many others if any, vary their tying method? And why? I began over 20 years ago tying it in the classic manner. When exactly it changed?..I really don’t recall?
Thread base
Extra fine wire extending over the back of the hook
Dub very tight body forward to about 2 eye lengths back from the eye
Tie in saddle hackle (I dont use the base or tip for this part, just the non-tapered midsection, 2 sizes small)
Wind hackle to back of body
Maintaining tension, secure hackle with wire
Rib body forward with wire
Tie off wire rib at front of the body
Prep & tie in elk wing
Whip finish
Trim elk hair butts
i too skip the wire but try to embed the hackle stem in the dubbing.
i cut the elk hair on an angle prior to tying in and the trim if required. tie in the wing, wiggle and wind the thread through the hair butts as done on hans’ cdc & elk.
how you tie the fly to get to the desired end product is probably irrelevant to the fish
Here’s Hans Weilenmann’s video of a CDC & Elk which illustrates Normand’s method of attaching the wing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NJyIbgKYHwY
To tell the truth, I’ve pretty much replaced the EHC with the CDC & Elk. More roosters with warmer necks and backs, but also more ducks with cold butts.
I was fully aware of the EHC but was refering to pics of the 4 tying styles mentioned to compare to see how they effected the look of the fly dependant on the specific tying styles mentioned.
Outside of the EHC, I use dubbing 99% of the time in place of peacock herl. Some hare’s ears I use fox squirrel dubbing instead. Several different materials in place of traditional tailing materials, and replacing biots. I’ve learned to use rabbit fur instead of marabou whenever possible, as well.
Normand and others, thank you for this very informative discussion, as for the securing of hackle, on wets I ussualy use the ribbing material to help secure the hackle on dries, bugs and bombers just tie off once palmered.
I use the same method as you. I also use the saddle hackles one size smaller. I also find it practical to trim the elk hair butts last so I can easily lift them away from the eye which is where I tie this pattern off. Tying off in front helps keep the butts upright. I tie most of my EHCs on Eagle Claw hooks (#16 & #14 - 1X short/barbless) that I got back in the early 90s. Don’t even know what model they are, just like em. Don’t know what I’ll use when these hooks run out. BTW, I only tie the EHC in a size 14 or smaller. If I need something larger I like to tie Improved Sofa Pillows instead. I’m also going to try some of the other methods suggested here, such as tying in the hackle forward - wrapping toward the rear - then bringing a re-enforcing wire/thread forward through the hackle. This may take more time(?), but I’m not a speed tyer, and like Normand, I’m a stickler for proportions and detail and put the same effort in an ant pattern as I do in a streamer or salmon fly. Do the fish care? NO!!! I learned to tie fairly well so that is what I shall do!!! Forgive me if I seem to go off on these tangents!!! LOL.
Base of thread from eye to end of shank, leave tag end long.
Dub body back - to - front.
Tie in hackle (one size smaller than for a typical dry) at front by the butt end, concave side facing back.
Palmer twice in front of the body, then in spirals to the back.
Work thread tag end as a rib through the palmer. Tie off in front.
Tie in Caddis wing using the over/under loop method (first go around the elk hair once then around the elk hair and shank). This will prevent the elk hair from rolling.
Take a couple of more wraps around the elk hair tie down point, then whip finish under the butts.
Cut butts to make a nice head. Use the slope of the turned down eye as a guide.
Cut a V in the hackle underneath to promote stability and proper cocking of the fly upon landing.
Ray, in the smaller versions it’s simply a “dam” or larger thread head in front of the elk hair butts. I lift the untrimmed butts and wind the head back into the base of the elk hair. On #12 and up I use a little dubbing as well to give it a more pronounced “chin”. It’s a style that was taught me years ago for the Chuck Caddis pattern. I feel it adds alot of durability to the elk wing and it always keeps it in place, so I use it on all caddis patterns these days.
Tie in Caddis wing using the over/under loop method (first go around the elk hair once then around the elk hair and shank). This will prevent the elk hair from rolling.
I had to walk through it because over the years it’s become a habit more than a process:^) I place a few loose wraps around the stacked bundle. Then cinch/flare the wing. I give 2-3 security wraps, lift the head and place 3 around the shank only, 3 more around the bundle. then wrap the chin. So it physically can’t spin.
