I am having a problem with my bead heads where I dind that they slip forward over the eye of the hook. The problem is sort of obvious but I don’t know the solution.
For example I am tying on a Mustad 9672 size 10 hook. The usual chart for bead heads says to use a 5/32 bead. This bead will actually slide right off over the hook eye. I stepped down to a 1/8 bead and find that this bead will slip down almost entirely over the eye of the hook making it very difficult to thread the eye.
The next size down will appears to be out of proportion to the hook size.
The problem is obviously that the forward hole is too large for the size of the eye. So the question becomes;
Is this a problem with the particular batch/brand of beads that I am using. Do other brands have smaller forward holes?
Is there a way to tie the bead on so that it doesn’t slide forward? Should I be putting a few wraps underneat the bead before I slide it on or a few wraps in front of the bead to build up the hook at the eye?
I have never had that problem, so my guess is that the particular brand of beads is the culprit. You could, I’m sure, build up a thread dam behind the hook eye or tie the bead on with some thread wraps back and forth over it, but that might cause problems later by being cut by a fish’s teeth and seems to be a lot of extra work that you shouldn’t have to do in the first place.
Joe
What brand beads? I’ve never had that problem unless tieing very small flys. I get most of my beads from H&H.
I take it you mean 1/8th pass right over the eye and off the hook also.
The difference between a 5/32nd and 1/8th is only 20% and I doubt the fish will know!!
Yes I’ve built up thread on small flies to anchor the eye.
I feel more like I do now than I did when I got here!
Joe is right. Some of the earlier beads wood slip right down over the hooks eye’s if you didn’t use a couple of sizes larger hook than you should. The new beads are sized right. If you look at your beads one side of the bead should have a larger hole than the other side. If not you got some of the older ones. My suggestion is to buy some newer beads or use those on much larger hooks. I have some of the old ones myself and they are a pain in the butt. I don’t even try using them I give them away to people LOL… Ron
Thanks fellows. You ae confirming what I expected.
The beads are new and they are double drilled with one side larger than the other. They were bought from a company in Canada that sells beads at a very good price.
As I am in Canada, I generally do not order from US mail order companies because the postage cost tends to be exorbitant, not mentioning the hassle with Customs. This ends up reducing my options somewhat.
I guess I will use those beads up on larger size hooks and get more beads that will fit the #10 hooks properly
I wish that putting the beads on backward was the problem. Nope, I put them on so that the small hole is up against the eye.
The problem I guess is simply that the holes are too large, especially the front hole. The 5/32 would slip right off the hook. The 1/8 will hang up on the bend of the eye, but covers much of the eye.
I went out and picked up a different brand of bead and the 1/8 stops at the eye. They didn’t have any 5/32 beads so don’t know if that brand will fit the #10 or not. But judging by the way the 1/8 fits I would suspect that the 5/32 will have too large a hole.
I guess the moral of the story is that even the suggested size charts have to be taken with a grain of salt and one has to go by trial and error.
The problem with those countersunk beads made for flys is that the hole is big enough to go over the barbs on Mustad’s classic line of hooks.
There is a point where the barb and the curve of the hook require a rather large hole. Crimp the barb and I’ve found you can use beads with much smaller holes.
You might want to try using hooks made for bead heads. I know Orvis, for one, sells a hook called a “bead head nymph hook” which has a larger eye and a curve that is especially designed for bead heads.
[This message has been edited by sjh (edited 07 August 2005).]
You can maybe save those beads by doing a few things.
You can wedge a lead wire in along side the hook shank and stake the bead. Then it is even heavier. Just trim lead wire flush with a single edge blade.
You can use UNI-Stretch yarn and build-up an area from the eye back a ways. Why not make it red. Build it up so that the bead is a tight fit when twisted on. Thenadd a drop of superglue and it wicks inside fast and cements the head in place. If you leave a little thread in front of the bead-you have a red nosed fly.Coat with SHHAN.
You can get a bunch of hooks for all of the beads and solder the beads on. Do it in a big batch and then you’ll have lots of bead heads. Makes them heavier & solid. Maybe trick a friend who is a Ham into doing it for you in exchange for Trout Almondine (or Greenbean Almondine for you CPR types)
Hot Glue stick. There has to be a way!
I know these tricks cuz I got a great deal on some beads one time…
"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, martini in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming “WOO HOO what a ride!”
[This message has been edited by AlanB (edited 08 August 2005).]
[This message has been edited by AlanB (edited 08 August 2005).]
I have this problem, esp. when tying small bead head nymphs in the size 20-24 range. The bead slips down and covers a portion of the eye, making it more difficult to tie onto tippet.
I solved the problem by wrapping a small amount of thread behind the hook eye before slipping the bead on, then putting a small drop of head cement next to the bead. Capillary action wicks the cement under the bead and glues it into place just where I want it…
