The possibilities of wire

Over the past year or so I have been playing with wire for bodies. The many colours of UTC wire now available open all kinds ofpossibilities.

One thing to point out at this stage is that in my tying Inever cut wire. UTC and other coloured wires are copper wire with a colourcoating. Copper work hardens, that is as you bend it, it gets harder. If youwaggle the wire around when it is anchored it will soon break at the anchorpoint. Doing it this way gives you two advantages.
1, It saves your scissors.
2, When the wire breaks it leaves a small burr that helpslock the wire in place.
The simplest way is just to wind a strand of wire to formthe body. This is great for a lot of spider type patterns where you want alittle weight. You can dub onto wire if you understand dubbing (Many don’t sothink wax is needed). My most successful buzzer pattern last season was justblack copper wire wound on a size 16 grub hook, one layer for the body two forthe thorax.

Taking this on a stage if you want a ribbed body tie in twostrands of the body colour and one of the ribbing colour, and wind together.

If you want to palmer this kind of body tie down the twostrands of body colour, and unwind the rib. Wind the hackle in the grove leftwhere the rib was. Then rewind the rib over the hackle stem.

The next stage moves things on a lot further, weaving thebody from 2 strands of wire. Don’t worry weaving with wire is the easiest wayto weave I have found. This is because of the stiffness of the wire. It staysput when you let go so there is no need to maintain a balance between thetension on the strands. This is the thing that most people have problems withwhen learning to weave.

You can adapt almost any wet fly by giving it a body wovenfrom the right coloured wire. Here I?ve taken the pattern for a Peter Ross andmade the body from read and silver wire in place of silver tinsel and red seal?sfur.

Czech nymphs can also be tied this way. Using wire for thebody makes a slim but heavy fly. You can weave with one strand or twist acouple of strands together. Some very interesting effects can be made using twostrands of different coloured wire. An underbody of hollo tinsel gives the fly an inner glint.

Imitative flies are best tied with single woven strands, forexample:
Hydropsyche pupa,

and Ryacophilia pupa.

It doesn’t end there. Salmon flies also benefit from thisapproach.

Giving the fly a little extra weight can make a bigdifference. Again it is easy to adapt many traditional and modern patternsusing this technique.

These are the possibilities of just one material we oftenignore. Another use that tiers often miss, is that you can take a piece of wire,double it over and use it as a bobbin threader.

There you go not only some new patterns to play with but amoney saving tip as well.

Cheers,
A.

Awesome post AlanB. I really like your tie of the Peter Ross one.

I really enjoy your “threads” on tying because you “think” outside the box and I really enjoy it plus it helps me to start thinking outside the box. Keep them coming…

Good thread!
I’ve been tying wire body flies for a couple years now. The wire adds weight to get the fly down without having to use beadheads or split shot, but you can still use both to get down even faster. My “go-to” soft hackle fly for a couple years has been a wire body, wrapped with 2 different color wires to give it that segmented look. Works fantastic for a sulpher emerger too.

One with wire and a bead too.

These are fantastic! I’m thinking those first two would be great for bluegills…

I’ve tied some BWO nymphs with wire bodies the past two years and they’ve worked pretty well.
Bruce

Very nice Alan, I thought I was the only one crazy enough to try weaving wire. I do not think I have reached your level of expertise.

[b]Wire bodied spiders is a useful way to add some weight.

[/b]

Donald,

Thanks for posting this pic; I had seen some somewhere but couldn’t find them and knew a written description wouldn’t do it justice. Really like that look - starting the wire up at the head, wrapping the body then returning the wire to the head as ribbing wraps.

Regards,
Scott

Here’s another Scott. Whoops! I should have said a couple.

I got the idea from William Anderson.

I like your ties !!! I have been using wire for a number of years also, in different sizes and color combinations for soft hackles, serendipities, caddis, stone and may fly imitations. Many of them have taken quite a few nice fish, especially on the Madison River.

The Fly Shop in Redding, CA featured around 50 patterns tied with wire abdomens in their 2005 catalog…not so much anymore.

Here are two that still are popular and working well this season:

http://stevenojai.tripod.com/hotwirecad.htm

http://www.idylwilde.com/html/hotness_inline.php?fly_id=2879

PT/TB :stuck_out_tongue:

I dare you to swing this one through a riffle on the Madison in the evening; don’t let your mind wander or you’ll have the rod jerked out of your hands. I always tied these with black holographic tinsel for the shellback; the floss looks to be a lot easier to use.

Regards,
Scott

AlanB, great work with the wire bodies. It would have been useful to have some of these this week as I was having difficulty getting my flies deep enough this past week eventhough they were some of my heaviest ties. Great job.

Greg

If you want to learn to weave then the fastest way is just to weave. Seems obvious but what I found was that if I tied one fly and wove that by the time I had got the next fly ready to weave I had forgotten what I learned on the first. The solution was to get 6 hooks the same ready to weave. You have to finish the thread at this point anyway so when you do put it aside. Then weave all 6 one after another. If you want to add anything after the weave don’t do this until all 6 are woven. At some point during those 6 woven bodies something will click.

My technique was helped a lot by getting an order for 100 dozen a few years ago. Tie that many and you do have a good idea how to do it.

If I want a shell back on a Czech nymph style fly I don’t tie in buoyant materials to achieve this. To maintain the density of the fly I simply run a permanent marker down the back of the fly. Weaving the fly uses about 25% more wire than winding the wire to form the body.

Another good source for coloured wire are the bead craft suppliers. Mostly I use 0.4mm, which will tie down to size #18 as a single strand. For smaller flies and for using multi coloured twisted strands at smaller sizes I have some 0.2mm. These craft wires work out a lot less expensive than UTC wire. For less than the price of a spool of UTC I can get a 90 meter (about 342 feet) spool of the 0.4 mm beading wire. I probably should look into bulk spools but at this price I,m not sure what the saving would be.

(For the technically minded: 0.4 mm wire is 26 AWG or 0.0159 inches. 0.2 mm wire is 32 AWG or 0.00795 inches, approximately.)

Expanding a little more on the first post I am working on some bend back salt water flies with wire woven bodies. Once I’m happy with them I’ll post pics.

Cheers,
A.

Excellent flies, I loved looking at them. You did one fantastic job on them, that is for sure.