Right, so, beads. I’ve been looking through the various books and online resources I have access too and decided that the next big thing to play with are bead heads. I understand the differences in bead materials, but I have questions regarding hooks and techniques.
I’ve been tying most of my nymphs on 2x hooks (Mustad 9671) and am wondering if I should bump up this up to 3x in order to accommodate the bead. I’m also wondering if the bead is going to make it around the bend of these hooks, as I’ve heard that with some that can be a problem. If none of this would work, which Mustad hooks would you recommend? Right now, I’m not interested in non-Mustad hooks, so suggestions that I go to another manufacturer wouldn’t be helpful.
The next question concerns how to make sure the bead doesn’t move. I’ve seen three different methods for keeping them in place: glue; lots of thread wraps and butting a piece of weighting wire up against the bead. Which of these, or what combinations, do you use? If you use the glue option, do you use the ubiquitous Zap-A-Gap or something else?
Lastly, I hand whip finish my flies. For those of you that do the same, how much am I going to hate getting the knot behind the bead? Are there any special tips that can make it easier, or is it actually no more difficult than finishing off any other fly? And no, I won’t be buying a whip-finisher any time soon.
I like the 9671 for bead-heads except in smaller sizes (#16-18 ) where I think the gap’s a bit small; there I’d go with a 3906B one size larger to compensate for difference in shank length.; on the other hand, in large size hooks (#4-6), the smaller gapped 9672 or something like a 79580 is what I use - those bigger gapes were reported to sometimes injure trout. I’ve had some issues getting beads on “natural bend” hooks like the Tiemco 200, but not 3906B, 9671 or 9672. To hold the bead tight. I use a few wraps of non-toxic wire shoved into the back side of the bead.
Folks make a lot of fuss about holding the bead tightly in place.
I’ve found that if you just tie the fly right up to the bead, it will stay there and you don’t have to spend any extra time or effort ‘holding’ the bead in place.
In the worst case, the bead will be a bit loose on the hook shank and rattle a bit against the hook eye. Probably not a bad thing. The fly will still fish just fine.
Whip finishing behind the bead will probably seem easier than doing so without the bead. The bead will help guide the thread into place behind it.
glass beads are cheap. the hole in the center is not consistent, if you buy the right size you will have most that will go on and some that won’t. I am lucky that I have a huge bead store not far from me. I can shop for beads with hook in hand and compare for color right at the store.
Most Walmarts have some beads, you can find the size you need there then order the color if you can’t find it locally.
If you have to buy your beads online you might have to go to the fly shop and purchase hooks to fit the beads.
I just tie right up to the bead holding it in place, don’t worry about glue or wire unless I really want it to be weighted then use the wire.
Oh and most suburban areas have some type of bead store, there might be one in your area, check at craft stores, fabric stores etc, they might be able to guide you to one to save you the hassles of shopping online.
on hook with larger eyes, just thread the point through the larger diameter hole and push it up to the eye. tie in the thread at the back of the bead and that bead will not go anywhere. remember that this will work on hooks with LARGER EYES!
Now, when you get there, spend some time looking at the tool selections. Also, brouse the wire area as well. And, you can find some interesting stretchy cords for stinging beads that work for a few things you’d like to see on a hook.
Bring your credit card or checkbook…have fun.
Next, find yourself a good yarn store…you’ll be amazed.
