Materials List:
Hook: #16-18
Wire Head: Gold 28 ga. wire two layers 3 over 4. wire run on top of back to bend.
Body: 1/3rd DK#3 apple green, 1/3rd olive GSS, 1/3rd fox squirrel dubbing
Teardrop Wing: light tan hen feather, cut out tip tied tips down then folded back, trim butt.
Collar: fox squirrel dubbing.
A step by step:
make thread base for wire head tie in wire
add drop of super glue then wrap head 3 over 4 turns 2 layers
run wire down top of hook shank to bend, cover with thread wraps
dub 1/3 of shank with apple green dubbing
add GSS olive dubbing and fox squirrel dubbing to 1/3rd of hook
prep light tan or ginger hen feather as shown
tie in feather “V” notch down behind wire head
fold feather back to form a “teardrop wing”
add more fox squirrel dubbing in front of wing
turns of dubbing will force wing back and down, cupping body
~ notice the bright green dubbing shining through the wing ~
Yes, I believe it is my invention… I named it a “teardrop wing” because of the shape and hooding effect on the body. In it’s finale position it looks like a teardrop… I’ve never seen this winging technique used on any other fly. Tied in my way, it incorporates the hackle/legs and wing all in one step…
VARIATIONS: I developed the fly for use on the Delaware River here in New York. We have lots of Apple Caddis with these very light tan wings. I also tie them without wire or bead heads and of course you can change the dubbing and wing colors to imitate any other caddis emerger…
That is a very creative approach with the single feather for the hackle, legs, and wing. Nicely done.
I am curious about tying the wire down along the top of the hook shank to the bend. Is the intent to simply add weight, or make the fly ride “hook up”, or both ??
John
P.S. I did finally have a reason to tie some flies using your WH approach - it worked out quite well.
John, the wire along the top is not essential. I put it there for some additional weight and instead of putting it on the side, I put it on top to give an impression of a scud hook… These apple caddis pupa are chunky and short, so that’s what I am trying to simulate. I don’t believe that small amount of wire will encourage the hook to ride upside down as I fish these on the swing, two at a time… But since you brought it up I wonder…?.. Maybe I’ll just go back to tying it on the side or breaking it after making the wire head… OK - it’s off to the water tank for some testing…
JohnScott, after some testing in the doctors small tank I think at times the wire on top will cause the fly to ride upside down. If the fly is under good line tension the fly tracks true, but in stiller waters or when on a slack line or dead drifted it may tumble and/or possibly ride upside down. Remember though the real bugs are getting knocked all over the place in the current as well and the dead and crippled bugs are drifting helplessly along in all kinds of positions. I’ve caught a lot of fish on this fly but again I always try and fish it with a tight line. These flies are used to simulate the caddis flies hatching from the bottom and shooting to the waters surface…
So, like any other fly you tie, tie it the way you like. I think I will change the pattern and eliminate the wire on top altogether just to be on the safe side… good observation JohnScott, thanks for bringing it up.
Steven, the wire head alone acts just like a bead head on any fly you tie… I tie these without WH’s or BH’s too…
I think we’ve gone over this before…There was an article in one of the rags a couple of years back pointing out that when a BH is dropped in a tank, it drops hook up.
The author advocated tying wing cases and the look on the under side.
… for the clarification. I fish so few wet flies that I didn’t even think about the possibility of fishing it on the swing. I was thinking about what would happen if it were fished dead drift or as a dropper.
Steve - I think your right if you just drop a down eyed hook with a bead on it in a tank of still water with no line attached, then yes I think the hook would drop, hook up to the bottom.
But for sub-surface flies; add a line with tension and angle, moving water (up and down stream), fly design etc, etc… It gets complicated in a hurry. I think the big thing is the balance of the fly. And what effects that balance, that determines how the hook rides. Whether it’s; hook shape, beads, fly design, line tension, water current, etc… it’s all about the balance of the fly… It’s easier to just let the fish be the judge or tie everything “in the round”.
