Salmonrod "Fly of the Week #49

Rod Robinson’s Salmonrod is tied with a core of rigid-foam, and
it is the only foam-core fly whose tying we will explore in
this book. But it makes a good example for other foam-core flies.

Materials list: The Salmonrod

Hook: Long shank, dry fly, sizes 6 and 4. (The hook shown is
a Gamakatsu F14.)

Thread: Orange 8/0, 6/0, or 3/0 (I prefer 3/0).

Tails: Pheasant-tail fibers.

Core: Section cut from a foam cup.

Abdomen and Thorax: Dark orange-brown dubbing.

Hackle: Dark brown or brown.

Wing: Brown calf tail.

Head and Collar: Elk hair dyed dark brown.

Method: The Salmonrod

  1. Start the thread at the bend. Dub the thread and build a small
    dubbing ball there. Tie in a bunch of three or four pheasant-tail
    fibers on each side of the ball the result should be split tails.

  1. Slide your fingers up the shank as you spiral the thread tightly
    up the pheasant butts and shank. Stop at three-quarters up the shank.
    Trim the butts.

  1. Snip a rectangular section from a foam cup as shown. The section
    should be long enough to reach from just ahead of the split tails to
    three quarters up the shank. The width of the section should allow it
    to wrap completely around the shank.

  1. Wrap the section around the shank. Secure it with plenty of tight
    thread-turns. The thread-turns will compress the foam, so use the
    tightness of the turns and their placement to shape it. The foam
    should taper at its very ends and should be reduced somewhat
    throughout remember that leaving the foam overthick will make the
    fly’s body overthick, but that too much compression will reduce
    buoyancy. Actually, this is easy enough to judge. If you are in
    doubt, check these photographs.

  1. Dub halfway up the shank, and then tie in a hackle. Trim the
    hackle’s stem.

  1. Dub to the front of the foam and then palmer the hackle forward
    in three to five turns. Secure the hackle’s tip with thread, and
    then trim the tip.

  1. Trim out the hackle fibers atop the thorax leaving a “V.” Cut,
    comb, and stack a bunch of calf-tail fibers. Tie in the fibers as
    a wing that extends to the edge of the hook’s bend or slightly
    beyond. Trim the fiber butts and cover them with tight thread-turns.

  1. Advance the thread to just behind the eye. Snip, comb, and stack
    a bunch of elk hair. Hold the hair along the hook with the hairs’
    tips at the bend. Trim the hairs’ butts to a straight edge at the
    eye’s tip.

  1. Work the cut ends of the butts down around the shank at the eye,
    tips projecting off the eye. Take two light thread-turns around the
    butts, and then pull the thread tight. Trim the butts and bind them
    with thread.

  1. Wind the thread to just ahead of the body. Stroke back the hair
    and secure it with a tight thread-collar. This creates a bullet head.
    The thread should be tight enough to cause the hair tips to flair.
    Whip finish the thread around the collar and trim the thread.

  1. Turn the Salmonrod upside down and trim away hackles and hair
    tips from its underside. Add cement to the thread collar to complete
    the Salmonrod.

  1. Trim the rubber-strand legs to length to complete this version
    of the Salmonrod. Here it is, completed. Note that this hair collar
    is short. A short collar is an option for both the standard and
    rubber-leg versions of both the Salmonrod and Goldenrod. The
    short hairs do not compete with hackle or rubber-strands in
    suggesting legs.

  1. Rod’s newest, still-experimental version of the Salmonrod
    features rubber-strand legs. To tie it, omit the hackle. When
    wrapping the thread collar, loop a fine-diametered section of
    rubber-strand over the thread and then slide that strand down
    to one side of the bullet head. Add a few tight thread-turns
    and then add another section of rubber-strand on the other side
    of the bullet head. Whip finish the thread, trim it, trim the
    underside collar hairs, add cement to the thread collar. The
    strands should be dark-brown or black. ~ Skip Morris

Credit: This fly is a terrific tutorial on using foam for
extra floatation on big flies. Tying Foam Flies by
Skip Morris has many neat techniques to spice up your flies.
Published by Frank Amato, add this one to your collection.
~ DLB

For more great flies, check out: and


Originally published August 13, 2007 on Fly Anglers Online by Rod Robinson.