Rod build

OK. So I’ve decided to try rod building. Since this is the first time I do not want to get myself into deep but on the other hand I have plenty of “cheap” rods and if I’m to put some money and effort into it I might as well get something I can use… After some considerations I think I’m gonna order a kit from Cabelas :

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat20166-cat20364&id=0003500314060a&navCount=2&podId=0003500&parentId=cat20364&masterpathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=IH&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat20364&hasJS=true

This is a spinning blank - I fly fish and spin fish all the time - on which the Avid rods are based. And I love my Avid. So…
my question is - are these Cabelas kits appropriate for the first time build?
Maybe I should get a blank from someplace else and order different parts/kit?

Any help would be appreciated.

PS. I am stright down to Earth - substance over form on any day guy. If the darn think does not look like a million dollars but it works like milion then I will be quite happy.

Thanks.

Mikie,

Yes.

Cabela’s kits are “complete” in that they provide all components to build the rod. St. Croix is good equipment for a good price. However, you will need to build or buy “tools” to accomplish the task (like a stand to hold the rod securely, a turning motor to rotate the rod while the finish dries, etc…). Above all else, seek out help from an experienced rod builder, take your time, dry fit all steps, and HAVE FUN! Rod building is addictive. Best Regards…

I am not familiar with Cabela’s blanks per se; however, for a first time build, I would highly recommend an inexpensive kit from Hook and Hackle – where all the components are included and very acceptable quality. I think you can get into a kit for well under $100.00.

YOu may need to pick up a couple of items such as Epoxy, etc if they are not included in the kit.

For sure, read the graphite rod building section on this web site written by Al Campbell – it will tell you everything you really need to know. Reading what others have to say and posting questions to this BB will also be helpful.

The first rod probably won’t be ideal; however, it will be acceptable. In my experience, I thought my first rod was good until I finished my second, third, etc and went back and looked at the first. Each on gets better as I learn what to do and not do and how to work with the materials.

The bottom line is that this should be fun and enjoyable – if it ain’t perfect. so what. Remember, it is a tool to throw line and flies.

I would also suggest that if you know someone else who builds rods, to borrow some equipment to use when turning the rod while applying epoxy. Trying to keep it turning by hand while it sets up is next to impossible.

PM me and I will send you a copy of a course outline that I use for our local Rod Building Class up here in Wellsboro, PA.

There are rod building classes?
WOW.

Ha I will be on the Hammond Lake in June or July!!

However, you will need to build or buy “tools” to accomplish the task (like a stand to hold the rod securely, a turning motor to rotate the rod while the finish dries, etc…).
I have an old (Herter’s) rod wrapping jig and I built myself a rotisserie motor dryer some years back too.
Sometimes, for me anyway, I find it just as easy to do it by hand… no tools
If there’s plenty of light, I’ll sit in an arm chair with the thread spool tentioned by running the thread under my leg and wrap in my lap.
Turning the rod during the drying of the finish isn’t much of a chore as long as you remember to make your turns. I set mine up on a couple of straight back chairs where I can keep my eye on it so I don’t forget :rolleyes:
“Toolless” may not be for everyone I’m sure, but it’s very possible to do without.

Mikkie Finn Cabela rod kits contain every thing you need to build the rod including instructions. Epoxy and rod finish,just cut and mix the two part packet. No motor for rod finish drying is needed,the instructions say to rotate the rod every 15 minutes for the first 2 hours. Fishbum (a faol member) and I are about to have a rod class for 12 people. We ask everyone to bring a rat tail file, 10 foot tape measure, razor blades, scissors, and small flat file. For thread tension we have a 4x4 block of wood with a finish nail to hold the spool of thread,and a phone book that they pass the thread thru. Go for it it’s fun then build a rod turner for future rods and drying those epoxy finished flies. BILL

The Cabela’s kits are ok, but they invariably have the wrong size/type guides for best performance from the blank. They also usually have the incorrect reelseat size, usually to small so the rod will be uncomfortable over a long day fishing.
Best to get on www.rodbuilding.org, with the specifics, such as your reel model and size, species fish, etc. and they’ll assist you in selecting the right components. There are many tutorials and library articles that you can access there, or others will steer you to.
Don’t be afraid to start with the blank, etc. you want right off. There is nothing you’re going to do that can’t be done again, just take your time and look to the little details as you go and it will end up as nice as any rod on the store rack if not a little better.
If it was rocket science, I for one wouldn’t be able to do it. My first rod was a nice G Loomis that I still use to this day.

I must take exception with your assessment of how Cabelas puts together a rod building kit. Please explain why you believe they would intentionally be putting together packages that will not perform well. If that were the case, word would get out quickly and they would be out of that business very soon. I certainly give them credit for being smarter than that.

Also, explain how a reel seat can possibly make a rod uncomfortable. A grip may do that, but the reel seat merely holds the reel in place, and it need be no larger than than the feet of the reels that are designed to accommodate that rod size. There are seat sizes to accomodate reel sizes as the size of the reel foot changes for larger rods.

Guides are an issue that fall in the “personal preference” category. Some people prefer oversized guides or single foot guides, but standard snake guides will perform just fine. If you are getting into competition casting, that’s another animal, but there is nothing wrong with standard guides on a rod.

It sounds to me like you have some sort of axe to grind with Cabelas, especially in light of how many people on this forum and other forums I participate in have built very nice rods from Cabelas kits. Yes, Rodbuilding.org is a good resource for all levels of builders, and I believe your broad statement about Cabelas kits for beginners would not hold much water there either.

Respectfully

Joe

I have no problem with Cabela’s or any other kits, unless your looking to build the best rod you can the first time out. If you look at at the guide set that came with that spinning kit and have spent anytime optimizing guide selection to get the lightest, most sensitive rod out of the blank you selected, that guide set isn’t it. That set of spinning guides is to heavy and not properly sized by todays standards. That guide set may be barely acceptable 15-20 years ago.
If you look at the Cabela’s catalog closely, they don’t carry the correct guides in anything but the Fugi Alconites. I’m talking about the ceramic fly guides that aren’t available for the rod tips on casting and spinning rods to keep them light and optimize the blanks characteristics.
I think a person would be better off getting a kit from a knowledgable rodbuilding supply company/shop, the difference in component costs in my view isn’t that great. The real costs would be in the additional epoxy glues and finish, you’d get. That said it would all still be there for the next rod.
I’m not trying to trash anyone, I just think there is a better way, I just wish I’d had that advise when I started. I than wouldn’t have had to rebuild half my rod arsenal.

I was surprised this post was still active as I just returned from vacation. Happy New Year!

MikieFinn, I usually travel during the summer months but ut I hope you enjoy Hammond Lake. I only received one PM from Joe about the course outline I offered to you for rod building. Offer still stands if you are still working on the rod.

As for many post on these sights not everyone will agree 100% with methods, kits, etc. so the post about Cabelas is expected. Joe makes a great point in that Cabelas is not going to hurt it business by pushing an inferior product. I prefer oversized guides as to me they cast better, but it is a personal choice and one that is not shared by all rod builders.

Little things like these just cause problems. Keep in mind, rod building is not a life or death situation.

I realize that I am a bit late on this, but last year I built from a Cabelas Kit and my only issue was that the epoxy came two sets of twin packets, so therefore you need to do all of your epoxy work in 2 five minute intervals. Being my first time, I felt like I was try to rush too much. I found it easier to go to the local hardware store and buy a tube of epoxy (press the plunger and both components come out equally) that I can repeatedly dispense small amount and not try to rush the work. I think the epoxy set me back about 5 dollars. Plus after using the stuff I realized that the extra can come in very handy around the house:D

Hope this helps,
Ned

I have to agree with Joe on this one. I build 2 G Loomis GL3 rods over the last year. One I bought from Cabela’s the other from Hook and Hackle. Both arrived on time with no back orders and most of the components were identical. The Hook and Hackle kit was a little bit cheaper but did not have as nice a wood insert as the Cabela’s kit. Cabela’s kit also include a couple of spools of thread, along with epoxy and rod finish. I know that I might be able to save a few bucks if I shopped around, but to tell you the truth 9 times out of 10 Cabela’s has the item I am looking for and it is always in stock.

Oh yeah, on the first rod I had the same problem as Water-Ouzel, but with the rod finish. If possible I would do just half a packet of each (make sure you mix equal parts). I mixed up the whole batch and it started to get very tacky by time I finished (very fast drying stuff). It’s better to do half at a time and do a good job instead of rushing.

The Little Lehigh Fly Shop has rod building classes. You’re not too, too far away, so that might be something to look into. I’m thinking of signing up myself.