Replacing Felt

I’ve read some of the existing posts of this topic but I would appreciate some more input.

I have removed the felt from my wading shoes with a dremel. Now I clean them with soapy water and rough them up a bit with a wire brush.

What will happen if I place the glue on the sole and tape the felt to them immediately–will it adhere?

Am I reading correctly that you put some glue on the new felt and let it dry and then put some more on and place the new felt on the shoe?

Dazed, confused and slow,
Bruce

P.S. I used some Gorilla Glue to temporarily reattach the old felts when they came apart and boy did that work. I’m wonderig if I should use the Hodgman Glue for one sole and Gorilla Glue with the other to see how they work. What do you think?

Try Barge Cement. It’s what my cobbler recommends.

Never needed myself but when I do I will go that route. He’s an old, OLD guy…been in the trade for decades.

Jeremy.

Bruce,

Several ways to do this.

Whichever way you go, just follow the instructions that came with the glue.

By the way, the moisture curing urethanes (Gorilla Glue and those similar) offer fantastic adhesion where suitable.

Most felt, though, is either attached with contact cement or barge cement.

Buddy

lastchance,

replaced felt a little while ago. Followed instructions on applying glue to felt and sole etc.‘’

*** A word of caution***

If the stickiness of the glue is anything like mine was be very, very careful on lining up the felt to the sole when placing them together. I was slightly off on one and there was hardly any way to move it even after a short amount of time - like seconds. However, I did leave a little overhang when I cut the felt to match the bottom of the boot; so, was able to trim it to fit afterwards. They’re working just fine.

It’s a contact type adhesive. You apply it to both surfaces, let it dry, then put the two together. Like Grn Mt said you get one shot at aligning it. Once it’s stuck it’s stuck. If you have ever applied formica it’s the same type deal. After it’s stuck beat the sole with a mallet.

Is one hour long enough?

I did it that way once …too dry

Most directions say apply to each…let dry…then apply again…wait till tacky …then put together…and yes you only get one chance

I like the Barge too, but it can be difficult to find. Compleat Angler makes one that we carry and it is made just for this purpose. It’s not contact cement, so it’s a bit easier to use.

Ron

Don’t forget to pack the boot tight with newspaper so you have a more solid boot when you glue it. And wrap the whole thing on tight with duct tape. i wait 24 hours before removing the tape, then I trim the excess felt with a filet knife, or you can use a razor knife just be careful. I have had them last for years with the contact cement. If the edges come loose I use Aquaseal on the edges and bind them tight with duct tape again. Never tried gorilla glue but always used the barge cement. I wouldn’t trim the felt before glueing do that after and you’ll get a better fit.
Glenn

Barge Cement, Plio-Bond even the contact adhesives used for formica are ideal for attaching felts. All of these are heavy duty contact adhesives and can be found at most hardware stores. This has been the standard adhesive in the shoe industry for many years.

Contact adhesives work a little differently then other glues. You want to apply a smooth even layer to each surface, allow it to dry until the surface is no longer tacky, then press the two surfaces together for an instant permanent bond. Instead of pounding with a mallet I just put the boots on and stomp around a bit. If you let the adhesive dry too long it won’t bond. No worries, just add another thin layer to act like a solvent. Clamping or duct taping is not needed.

Porus materials like the felt will need several layers before an even coat is acheived. To build up layers it is best to allow the previous layer to dry completly (like overnight) otherwise the second layer just thins the first one and it soaks deeper into the felt. I usually need at least three thin layers to get a good surface on new felts. The boot soles might only need one layer, esp. if they are clean and smooth.

To remove old felts use heat (if they were attached with contact adhesive.) A heat gun works well, but I like to place the boots on their side with the soles facing a small electric space heater. It will take some time for the heat to penetrate the felt, but once the glue gets warm enough the soles will peel right off with very little effort.

Use a wire brush to remove any bits of left over adhesive and dirt. Roughing up the surface is not needed and only makes it harder to get a good smooth glue surface later. Contact adhesives work great on smooth clean surfaces, that is why they are used for formica countertops.

I have heard of people using Gorilla Glue or Aqua-Seal, but they need clamping during the curing proccess and are much harder to work with. They also might be very difficult to remove if the boots ever need to repaired again.

Gorilla Glue will work just fine.

                                              John

Lastchance, some may laugh but…LOL…I repaired an older pair of Orvis boots three years ago using Gorilla Glue after the soles started coming off. Took off the bad soles, cleaned the boot carefully, put the glue on both the old sole and the boot and then wrapped in masking tape. These boots are still going strong. BTW, took them to a cobbler shop and I was asssured that Gorilla Glue would not hold up. And these boots get a lot of hard use. Good luck whatever you try and am sure other products will work well also.
Crackleback

Crackleback & All: I used Gorilla Glue for a quick fix and it works great. I got the felts off, but they they held tightly where I put the Gorilla Glue. I just needed a little extra muscle to get them off.
Thanks