On my rods I have fly lines by Rio, SA, Wulff, even one Orvis line. Even though I bought most of them either on sale or at close-out prices, they are all expensive lines. Recently I went looking for a bargain line for my new (to me) 2wt. I would have bought one from David at River Traditions but he doesn’t offer a 2. I missed out on a close-out Orvis line (out of stock in 2wt). I checked ebay and found a FWF2 line from a Canadian seller in for $11 + $3 shipping. I figured, what’s the worst that could happen? If it’s junk I haven’t wasted much more than the price of a nice lunch.
I have to say, the line casts great, floats well, and seems to perform as well as my expensive lines. Now, I realize I’m not casting very far with this line, so maybe a cheap line wouldn’t perform as well on a bigger rod, but I gotta ask: what’s the difference, and how do line companies get away with charging $80 to $100 for a fly line?
I help operate a fly shop and have access to fly lines from the $12 Cortland Silverstream to the SA Sharkskin.
For the most part, the more you pay for a line the better it will perform. More expensive lines usually float better, shoot better, and are more durable. Many of the high end floating lines now have tip sections which float much better than less expensive lines.
For many anglers the performance benefits of an expensive line may never come into play. For someone who mostly fishes at close range and rarely shoots much line those slick coatings or bumpy surfaces on an expensive line may not be of much benefit.
The higher cost lines and specialty lines like SA Streamer Express or Rio Outbound often cost more to manufacture hence the increased cost.
It’s up to each angler to decide what suits their need best. For many a low to mid price line is just fine.
I have access to just about any line I want. For a lot of may bass and panfish angling I use SA Air Cel floating and Cortland 333 sink tips. However after a couple of seasons those Air Cel lines are now behave like intermediate lines I typically use mid price lines like the Cortland 444 Classic in moving water because they float better than the less expensive lines. And I use expensive specialty lines when most appropriate for some types of angling scenarios like casting giant topwater flies to stripers or for saltwater fishing.
Most of the floating lines we sell in the shop range from about $35 to $50 with some lower and some higher priced lines.
Cheap lines in ultra light weights are pretty rare. Sales volume is small compared to 4 through 8 wt lines and manufacturers don’t make them in their budget line ups. So yo need to find discounted discontinued lines.
Manufacturers charge $80-$100 for lines because people pay for them. If people stopped buying the demand would be gone and they will stop making them.
I also fish spinning, baitcasting, and conventional saltwater gear and I have found that even $80 flylines are less costly over time than changing out the mono that I spool those reels with. Good fly lines last years but I need to change out mOno several times a year and on some saltwater gear after each trip and sometimes during a trip on tuna outings.
I’ll fish any good line, if the price is right.
I prefer Cortland 444 Peach for the majority of the fishing locales I habituate.
Haven’t bought a new line from a dealer in years. I see a good line for sale on Forums such as this, I buy it!
Normally at 50% of original cost or less. Have enough to last me for many, many years but if I see an Airflo Ridgeline Persimmon colored
line (made for the Japanese market) for sale I’ll buy in a heartbeat…if the price is right!
Cheap lines are ok for a few outings or maybe a season but they won’t hold up for the long run. (Original Aircel Supreme being an exception)
If you feel you have to pay $80 for a line go for it. I’ll wait for a deal.
Others are correct, if you buy it they will sell it, at whatever the market will bear!!
Never understood the infatuation with Peach or maybe the three I had were a bad batch:confused: I have Rio, Air Flow, Orvis, SA. All are good lines but I use Sharkskin on all rods now. Last longer, shoots better, floats like a cork. Everything it claims it produces. I worked for Orvis for several years and just in the two grades they offered, Silver Label at $39. and the top of the line @ $59. (back then, $79 now) there was a major difference. Smoother coating, more supple and no memory.
I am a “you get what you pay for” girl.
Well, I’m thinking the Peach is probably not a good choice for medium-fast to fast graphite rods?
I think you’ll find them excellent for bamboo and glass.
That is what I use. Glass is my main choice followed by Bamboo and I always fish a Medium action to full flex rod. Hate fast action other than tossing in to big winds with big flies.
As far as lines costing so much…5 years ago I was top sales associate and made top pay at $9. an hour. Now I am just an associate and started at $11. Wages go up, cost of merchandise goes up. Specialist to design these materials and tapers wages go up…on and on. I remember when gas was $0.59!!!
I agree, he, he. I love my Boos and Glass, plus the Superfines. I feel the fly line next to the fly and presentation, is the most important thing to “catching”. The rod however, is a physical thing so the new lighter rods that come at a cost is worth it to me. Reel, not so important. I hold that as a place to hold the line, but a good drag is nice, but not necessary. That being said, I have no problem paying that $100. on a line that does everything it claims to and did I say last longer. I fish at least 3 days a week, year round. I can go through a line in a year. Third year on the SS and still looks purdy. But, when I can go out with a newbie and their budget line (and some do choose Peach) and had them my rod with Shark Skin and not only see, but hear them jump for joy at how easy and far they just cast.
I can roll cast 60’ easy with a 6’6" 4 wt glass rod. Again, I understand many love Peach. I just am not one of them and I have tried it, so not talking out my &^%$. LOL
I guess that’s the difference, Goddess: you’re a “professional” fisherman, I’m a “recreational” fisherman. I do have some nice rods (I love my Winston WT’s) but I’ve never worn out a fly line in my life, and mostly I don’t cast far enough to worry too much about how far the line will shoot. My cheapie seems to float really well and I haven’t noticed any memory problems, and it’ll cast as far as I can cast it. Remains to be seen whether it will continue to perform, but if it doesn’t I can buy a lot of 'em for the price of one high-dollar line :D. I guess I’m a “get-what-you-pay-for” guy too; I just think there’s a law of diminshed returns after you get to a certain point. But I’m not here to argue or convert anybody, and differences of opinion are what makes the world go round. Best wishes from the prairie…
I guess one could be happy with a moped as it will get you there, but a Harley is nicer…LOL As you said, you don’t need to cast far and the line does fine, but you don’t need to cast far with SS either as I do fish creeks, but nice to have one line that will do all waters. Sure you can buy many lines for the price of SS but you can spool them too
If your needs are small then by all mean spend small. But there is a difference and that was what the post is about. If a newbie will notice it immediately, there is a difference.
The cost…well that is the way things go.
Now, Now, you said “I don’t cast far enough to worry too much about how far the line will shoot” No put down at all. But I will drop out of this post now, so please continue.
I wasn’t aware that casting distance was the bench mark for measuring fishing competence; in fact, didn’t you say earlier that presentation is what’s important? But whatever. Keep buying those hundred dollar fly lines; the economy needs the boost ;)!
Yes the economy needs a boost, but fishing as much as I do, replacing floating lines every 2 years ends up about $60. So 5 years ago when I first got Sharkskin for my 5 wt., I paid $99. I’m still using that line, it floats as good as it did on day one.
So I feel like I let the economy down by not contributing that extra money (another year and it’ll be another $60 if I was still replacing the same line. So, in 6 years, the less expensive line would have cost a total of $180. $80 more than what I paid initially for the SS. Cost effective for me. Plus, I false cast less, (which means the fly is on the water more than in the air), can use it on small streams or large rivers, and being as slick as it is, I can reach that fish I wasn’t able to with other lines. In your last post to FG, you mentioned that you weren’t aware that casting distance was the benchmark for measuring fishing compentence. It’s not, but this line will improve your casting distance, so you need to realize you have to change a few things with your cast, mainly you use less effort to cast.
One of the biggest selling points for me is-THE TIP KEEPS FLOATING WITHOUT THE AID OF ANY KIND OF FLOATANT. But then since I’ve got the 5 wt. line, I had to get it in 3,4, and 6 wt. too.
But if peach is your bag and you’ve had it forever, good on you. Just stopped working for me many years ago and I found a better line- for me.
p.s. this line works well on every rod I have from bamboo, to old and modern glass, full flex Superfines to fast graphite. It’s very non-bias towards your collection.
