After the past two, hard season’s of use, my 'Toon’s frame is pretty scared up, finish wise.
(It’s a Creek Co. ODC Outcast)
Does anyone have a good way of perhaps- “refinishing” the frame? I, know, I could simply give it a “rattle can, once over”, but was sort of hoping for something a bit more durable.
I don’t mind spraying it- but does any one have, or know of, a good, solid semi-lasting spray, and/or, brush application?
It doesn’t have to be a “roadster show finish”, either!! Just a way to keep the bare metal sections a bit more protected than they are now.
Find a place that does sandblasting or beadblasting, have them take off ALL of the old finish and oxide, wipe it down with brake parts cleaner, acetone, or something else that won’t leave a residue, and then paint it either with metal primer and whatever color spray paint you wish, or something like Krylon high temp engine enamel. Another option is to take it to a bike shop and have them paint it for you like they would a bike frame.
Thanks, DG!
Never thought about the “bike frame”,deal, great idea!
I have, gone the “remove old finish, prime and paint”, with a canoe I once had and it worked pretty well, for a while. But, I was hoping, with the 'Toon frame, to maybe get it powder coated or a like finish for a little bit longer lasting finish on it.
I know, they powder coat a lot of bike frames so that’s probably the ticket!
Thanks, much!
DG
I havent used it but have been told that Rustolieum Barbque/stove paint works well for firearms going into nasty environments. I’m sure the krylon would do well also, probably nicer colors as well.
Thanks, Normand!
DG, had mentioned the “blasting it first” idea, too (and one I hadn’t thought of!). I’m glad you both have, because I DIDN’T think of doing it and of course, it’d make a far more durable and smoother finish.
I think, too, as you also mentioned I’m going to see about having it powder coated, instead of ME trying to spray it.
Hmmm… metallic purple, 9 coats, hand applied “flames”… maybe a few hand painted leaping trout on both foot rests… covered with 3 coats of clear pearl finish over all of that, then waxed to a hig… never mind, it’s a darn fishing boat.
I don’t know about the “moss green”, DG. You’re right, “It’d match a lot of what’s in Oregon”, but who wants a 'Toon boat that’s the color of the local residents?
I was actually thinking, of something a little more “stealth colored”…
like “Oregon Slug Brown”, or perhaps painting it after the Oregon state flower… “Bacterial Mold Black”!?
Currently, I’m leaning heavily towards the “Slug Brown”, since it’s the Slug, after all, that is the state’s “Wild Animal”.
The powder coater may be able to chemically strip the frame for you in his dip tanks. Check that out as an option. If the shop is slow they may take on a job like your just to stay busy. Furniture refinishers also have dip tanks, and that would strip & etch the frame ready for powder coating.
Man, Joe!!
OBVIOUSLY, you’re one of them thar’ “Sidekicks” I hear about that can “bend spoons just by staring at them”, “read people’s minds”,(even ones like DShock’s!), and “get their date drunk and agreeable on only a Pepsi”…
BECAUSE… I called the local bike shop, today, and asked about “blasting the frame, powder coating it, etc.” and this super nice individual, told me (in his exact words)… “Hey, things are SO SLOW around here in the winter months, we were throwing darts, when you called!! We’ve never done, a framework like you describe, Paul, but bring it on over and we’ll dip it, to strip it, and that way not remove any metal, getting down to bare steel. Then, we can powder coat it, any color you pick out!”
Without me asking him, (but I’d already given him tube diameters and measurements on the frame box), he told me it would run…“About, $40.00, unless you want two-tone, or, a 2 layer clear lacquer top finish”. (another, $15.00 for the lacquer).
I was going to ask him, too, about the flames and leaping trout motif, but thought better of it. I can always add those, with my crayons, come spring.
Thanks to all, who gave me great advice!
DG:
My oars, that came with my boat, started to look almost as bad I ALWAYS DO, long before the frame finish went south.
Also, aluminum, and like you did… I tried the conventional “rattle can paint job”. And, like yours… it didn’t work.
But, I then rattle canned them again and this time, also gave them 3 coats of “Krylon, spray, clear acrylic finish”. So, far and countless yachting trips later, the paint job it holding its own!?! Just an ideeer.
I, think DG, by house rules “I’m allowed to hi-jack my own thread”, so I have to ask out of sheer curiosity…
Is this the SAME “camp-duct tape” that Cortland used a few years ago, on those ridiculous “Camo Rods” they tried to peddle off on us?
Never could, understand Cortland’s poor theory on "needing a “Tree Bark” fly rod, but they must have sucke…er… SOLD a few, here and there, because a buddy of mine fell for one!?
Anyhoo, if that’s what you covered your oars with, any problems with water eventually loosening the sticky on it?
No I think this is Wal-Mart camo duct tape, the kind you use when you need duct tape but don’t want it to be shiny and silver. Everything I own is drab, but I can deal with fly rods being carbon black instead of camo.
And so far it is still stuck, but it doesn’t get much use, usually just use the fins.
If you watched the same program on “bomb proofing” a building with the Rhino spray-on bed liner than you know just how incrediably tough that stuff is. For you guys that didn’t see the program, it proved that the Rhino spray-on bed liner is actually bomb proof as advertised.
After seeing the program, I immediately thought of the same approach to this question, however I would be concerned that it may add quite a bit more weight to the toon if he has to carry it long distances.