Does anyone know
What chemical can be used to thin Daves flexement ?
What chemical can be used to thing super glue
What is the best way to color head cement or create a colored laquer ?
Dear Larry:
Dave’s Flexament is the same thing as vinyl cement. Hardware store vinyl cement thinner will do the job. Some fly shops sell “Vinyl Cement” because Dave’s Flexament is trademarked and unavailable through some fly tying wholesale outlets. But anyone can sell vinyl cement. Shops selling Dave’s Flexament or Vinyl Cement should also sell the “Flexament Thinner” or “Vinyl Cement Thinner” as well, but it’s cheaper by the quart at the hdwe. store.
Colored lacquer?
Find a shop that carries Wapsi products and have them get it for you. Wapsi (wholesale only) sells a full line of colored Head Cement Lacquers. Black, white, yellow, red, etc. I know for a fact that the fly shop in Waterville, PA, has it. It’s called McConnell’s Country Store and Fly Shop.
That’s where I recently bought yellow & white. The phone is: 570-753-8241. I don’t know if they do mail order.
Tight threads:
Don
Edit:
sorry - don’t know about super glue.
[This message has been edited by Don Bastian (edited 01 April 2005).]
[This message has been edited by Don Bastian (edited 01 April 2005).]
I haven’t had the need to thin my superglue yet but if I did, I would probably add a very small amount of acetone (fingernail polish remover) at a time. VERY SMALL until I got the right consistency (too much and the superglue might be ruined). The acetone also helps clean up excess superglue on my fingers and tying tools. I do the same thing for the Sally. I would probably use vinyl cement if I didn’t have to order it all the time but the superglue and Sally work fine for me and are readily available.
The real problem for me with the superglue and Sally is keeping the threads on the bottle and screw-cap clean so that it keeps a tight seal. This excess superglue or Sally on the threads prevents a good seal and causes air seepage leading to thickening and eventual hardening. If I do it right and keep the threads clean (I quickly use my bodkin to clean the threads), I get a good seal so I don’t have to thin the liquid.
Don’t know what other folks do but this method works for me anyway.
Robert B. McCorquodale
Sebring, FL
“Flip a fly”
Dixie,
I use corks with different size wires [in the way of Henry Hoffman] in the place of the caps.
Early on with the advent of Dave’s flexament I read where it was goop thinned with tolulene Does anyone know if that is true? I do know toluene works well for thinning it. Is vinyl cement different.
There is a FAOL article on this subject by Al Campbell and some fairly extensive threads too.
Corks in place of threaded caps on head cement bottles. PRICELESS! Why Did I not think of that. Thanks. Jax
I’m a much better Fly fisher when talking fishing, than when I’m Actually Fly fishing!
Jax,
Here’s another tip to go with the cork…use straight wire of different diameters through the corks depending on the size droplet you want…you can get quite fine for example…also use a blunt tip not sharp like a bodkin…it allows better droplet control.
Dave’s is toluene and I don’t think you can thin the CA (super glue).
Happy Trails!
Ronn
Larry,
CA glue is made in differing viscosities. It doesn’t ‘thicken’ if you leave the cap off. I NEVER replace the cap on a bottle once it’s opened, and it will stay in it’s original condition for well over six months (longest I’ve had a bottle open before it was all gone).
If you need it thinner, you can go to a hobby type shop, one that deals with model airplane or train types, and get it in several different viscosities from water thin to gel.
I’d not try to thin it, since adding a chemical to it may effect both the cure time and strength of the bond.
As far as colored head cement, you have LOTS of options. Most full service paint shops carry colored lacquers. These dry quickly. You can get them from several of the tackle making catalogs as well, Jann’s, Barlows, etc…
WalMart and any craft store now carry gloss acrylic paints. These take a bit longer to dry, about 10 minutes between coats, but are water soluable and work fine for colored head cement. You can thin them with water if you so desire. Comes in a wide color range, including clear and clear with suspended glitter, and is waterproof when cured. The clear is very glossy and makes a good top coat on any fly head or lure you want to really shine. Around $1 per bottle (enough in one bottle to put three coats on well over 2,000 flies).
The tackle making catalogs also carry pigments for coloring soft plastics and epoxies. You can use these to create colored 5-minute epoxies and they will also color most solvent based lacquers and head cements. Another source for pigments might be an automotive paint specialty shop.
Plain old Testors model enamel works, especially if you want a very glossy head with fewer coats. Takes overnight between coats, though.
Good Luck!
Buddy
[url=HTTP://HOMETOWN.AOL.COM/RSAN2708/INDEX.HTML:96939]HTTP://HOMETOWN.AOL.COM/RSAN2708/INDEX.HTML[/url:96939]
[This message has been edited by Buddy Sanders (edited 01 April 2005).]
Dave’s Fleximent Thinner is Toluene (Toluol)
ACE Hardware sells quarts.
MAB and other paint stores only sell gallon cans.
Home Depot and Lowes do not carry either.
You can also make your own “fleximent” buy combining Shoe Goo and Toluene. I learned this from one of George Harvey’s books.
[This message has been edited by classicflytyer (edited 02 April 2005).]
Will toluene work to thin Softex? I have a jar that is half full and getting to thick to use. Will finger nail polish remover work?
Hey guy’s, I have an alternate method for topping your cement so it wont dry up.
I started out buying fly head cement in the small square bottle from wapsi with the screw cap much the same as dave’s etc.
I took the cap off of a squeeze ketchup bottle with the flip up top that has a hole in it. It fit’s on the head cement bottle perfectly. Now All I do is open the top while tying and insert my bodkin and there you go! I refilled the bottle with sally hansens hard as nails and never had a problem since. Of course if you dont close the bottle after tying it will dry out but a standard bodkin covers the hole for the most part. Just one more way to do it!
Pretty sure it’s xylene [Xylol] for Softex and you can make your own softex with Plasti-dip and xylene.
Re; goop and tolene…I use small salt and pepper shaker bottles picked up at the 99cent store…use corks and wire…and keep several thicknesses of the “flexament” on hand.
Just looked at my stash…have some Plasti-dip with toluene as solvent so both xylene and toluene work.
If people reading this do not have these materials and are looking to buy, I would recommend getting Toluene b/c “I think” (read: I have not tried) Xylene will not work with the Shoe Goo or Fleximent.
If someone has used Xylene please let me know b/c it is a tiny bit less toxic than Toluene 
BTW, what is Plasti-dip?
> Just looked at my stash…have some
> Plasti-dip with toluene as solvent so
> both xylene and toluene work.
[This message has been edited by classicflytyer (edited 04 April 2005).]
[This message has been edited by classicflytyer (edited 04 April 2005).]
Plasti-Dip is the stuff you can dip tool handles in the get a plastic covering …it comes in different colors …clear is harder to get but exists…incidently I’m noticing that my Plasti-Dip and toluene is turning yellow…have had it quite awhile…
you may be correct about the xylene not working…haven’t tried it myself …but guess I will…if I do I’ll let you know…
OK,
Turns out I don’t have any goop in a tube at this location so I added Xylol [xylene] to some rather thick goop and toluene I have and it thinned it quite nicely.
Ducksterman,
Are you calling Shoe Goo “goop” in your above post??
Thanks
xfc
Hmmmmm,
As I said I’m not where I have my tubes and it’s been a long time since I started doing this…but as I recall the same company makes goop and sho goo…I have used both and they seem the same to me…maybe someone else has had a different experience…I think the sho goo dries harder and goop is a little softer e.i. in the original state…if I’m buying for wader repair or tying I get marine goop…but again I’m not sure it makes any difference.
I don’t know how it would work with your vinyl products but I’ve colored epoxy for years using powdered artists (non-wax) pastel chalks. They come in sticks that you scrape into a powder with a razor blade. The unique feature is that they are chemically inert and will not react with the epoxy. You can make up just about any color needed. I’ve even used this idea to patch chips in our ceramic kitchen countertop. Also,to reinforce and add a brown tint to wing quills for Muddlers etc. I’ve used my fingers to wipe them down with regular contact cement,like Weldwood brand, that was diluted with lacquer thinner.
Half the fun is in the experimenting!
Super Glue will deffinately thicken once the cap is off even when you snap the quick cap back on. It may take a few weeks or even a few months but it will absolutely thicken. It can be thinned but it is so inexpensive when you get it wholesale it’s not worth the trouble. I keep some that have stiffened because sometimes I need a little dab of the thicker consistancy. Once it gets too ‘stringgy’ or rubbery I just heave it. I often use Zap a gap for head cement or on any half hitch I put on while tying my type flies. I have found though that when tying if I put a few drops in a small glass candlestick holder 1/2 inch I.D. or smaller it will stay liquid all day. If I am going away from my tying bench for any length of time I just set a liter bottle cap over it. It won’t stick because of the slippery plastic insert.