Even though I’ve read a lot, it seems that questions still come up. When it comes to the details of actually buying the materials it gets confusing again.
I have some full spools of older rod wrapping thread, Gudebrod nylon, in size “A”, and in size “00.” Is either of these good for guide instillation. The stuff is quite old, but looks to be in great shape. It came with some hooks (I think) that I bought on Ebay a while back.
What size is “00” when compared with size “A”?
What type of thread can seem to become clear when coated with epoxy?
What type of epoxy do you folks like, that is clear and does not yellow much, and that the bubbles disappear from?
I know that questioon #3 has come up, I had read answers on it, but could not find the specific post that had the answers that were given.
I am still using my size A thread I bought back in the 80’s so likely as long as it is not dirty should be OK. I have not used a size 00.
Usually white thread will become clear when finish is applied as long as it is NOT NCP thread. Some thread will be marked “NCP” for “No Color Preserver” - this thread has been treated to keep its color and not turn translucent.
I spent years trying to prevent bubbles with epoxy. I like to thin it out with Denatured Alcohol, but I have been told not to do that. Not sure why, I have been doing it for years and have never had a problem.
What I do is two coats ->
The first coat is thinned 1 part A, 1 part B, and 1 part Alcohol. This is very thin and I apply it as thin as I possibly can - the purpose is to seal any contaminants that cause the bubbles to be sealed into the thread. Like I say - this coat is as thin as I can get it.
The second coat is per directions 1 part A, 1 part B -> this coat is applied in a normal coverage to produce a nice looking finish. I have found sealing the thread totally eliminates all bubbles and believe me I had a heck of a time figuring out how not to have bubbles - I was titled the “Bubble King” until I figured this out.
White will usually turn clear unless color preserver is used
I like Thread Master light. Be sure to use a minimum of 1/2 teaspoonful of each to have enough material to kick off the chemical reaction. Also warm the bottles a little befoe mixing --not hot- and mix well as instructed – pretty much the same instructions for all the epoxies. Use it until it gets thick and starts to drag – then discard and mix a new batch. If too thick, it will trap bubbles.
I have tried diluting with acetone to thin the mixture to “wet the threads” as mentioned above–it works very well but is an extra step --but now, I just use the thread master light and after it is applied well with a fine paint brush I “draw” it along the wrap to get the contour I want then, I blow on the epoxy covered guides and it thins and smooths out and the bubble problem is rare.
I think as much as anything, after you play with it for a while, you get pretty comfortable with it – there is a slight learning curve
The trick for me was not generating bubbles mixing the epoxy. The easiest way for me to accomplish that little feat was a motorized mixer. These can be purchased or home brewed, but definitely worth looking into. To prove to myself the key was in the mixing, I did tests with several of the available finishes / viscocities I fought with in the past and no more bubble issues. I have tried to hand mix without causing bubbles and it just ain’t happening for me.
As stated above, getting the finish down before it starts to kick and not overworking during the application will help as well.
I did some research on the clear wrap thing. Silk thread will be clear when finished. I was told by someone on here, that 6/0 silk is the best to get the clearest wraps, but it’s hard to work with. size A silk thread will work also, I am told and I think I am going to go that route.
