Kim's Cased Caddis - #286 FAOL — Fly Pattern

Kim’s Cased Caddis By Al and Gretchen Beaty

Inspiration for this pattern came from two directions.
After purchasing a package of Caddis Tube Bodies from
Umpqua, Kim was browsing through Gary LaFontaine’s
marvelous book Caddisflies looking for
ideas on how to effectively use the new material. Gary
us well known for his woven-body flies, so it was only
natural to put the two together.

When Kim first started tying this fly it was intended
to be an artistic rather than fishing fly. To his
surprise it proved effective on the water, especially
after replacing the pheasant-tail legs with those
constructed from rubber.

Kim fishes it without weight, casting upstream and
allowing it to dead-drift back downstream. The Cased
Caddis is most productive in clear, moderately
fast-moving water like sections of the Provo or
Weber rivers near his home in Utah.

Materials List: Kim’s Cased Caddis

Hook: Mustad 80150 BR (Swimming Nymph), size 14-16.

Thread: Black, chartreuse.

Case: Umpqua Caddis Tube Body covered with gravel.

Body: Wapsi Round Rib, yellow and olive, woven.

Legs: Black pheasant-tail fibers or fine rubber legs.

Coating: Five-minute epoxy.

Tying Kim’s Cased Caddis

  1. Start a thread base about one eye-width back on the shank.
    Wrap back to the first bend near the middle of the hook. Cut a
    four-inch segment of yellow and olive tubing. Lay the olive aside
    for a moment and bind the yellow to the off side of the hook shank
    ending near the eye. Tie on the olive to the near side ending in
    the middle of the hook. Be sure the tubing is on the sides of
    the shank.

  1. Start the body by placing an overhand knot in the tubing, slipping
    it on the hook, and then tightening it. Be certain to keep the olive
    on the top and the yellow on the bottom. Place a series of these knots
    on the shank, each one getting closer to the center of the hook. Some
    tiers find this operation easier if they turn the vise so the hook
    points either toward or away from them.

  1. Once you reach the center of the hook, tighten the last
    knot then bind the two tag ends of the tubing to the shank.
    Trim away the excess then apply a thread base to the rest
    of the shank ending up back in the middle. Whip finish the
    thread and trim it off.

  1. Apply black thread to the hook directly behind the
    hook eye. Select six black pleasant-tail fibers and bind
    them to the underside of the hook as legs. Trim away any
    excess fibers. Dub a black head, whip finish and cut off
    the thread.

  1. Trim the body so it is as long as the hook shank.
    Remove the hook from the vise and slide the point inside
    the body. Half way into the tube pierce it with the point
    and slide it part way onto the shank.

  1. Apply a coating of super glue to the theread wraps and
    finish sliding the body tube on the hook shank until it
    reaches the woven body completed in Step 3. Hold the
    tube in place until the super glue works its magic.

  1. Remove the hook from the vise and secure it in a pair of
    hemostats. Mix five-minute epoxy and coat the body tube with
    it. While it is still wet, dip it into a container of fine
    gravel making certain it is evenly coated on all sides. Kim
    uses parakeet gravel available at pet supply store, or fine
    gravel from the body of water he plans on fishing.

  1. Here is Kim’s rubber leg version. This has become
    our go-to searching pattern for streams we fish in Idaho.
    If caddis are in important insect in your part of the
    world you owe it to yourself to try this pattern. It is
    awesome! ~ Al and Gretchen Beatty

Originally published October 10, 2005 on Fly Anglers Online by Al and Gretchen Beatty.