I am looking into a multiday float trip in montana. does anyone have any experience with the bighorn river fly shop in ft smith, mt? any info on the bighorn, like what’s good at certain times of year, how crowded is the water, good places to eat, other waters nearby to fish on off float days. just any info to seperate this location from another location.
thanks
riz
Here’s a recent article on the Big Horn by Neil Travis. Might help you in your decision making process.
http://www.flyanglersonline.com/articles/journal/2012/journal20120102.php
John
You can fish it year round; with the hatches come the crowds. I fished it last April and although it wasn’t exactly busy (I fished it mid-week between some periods of moderate snow) it wasn’t empty; hit it during PMD, bwo, caddis, hopper time and you’ll take a number to use the ramp at Afterbay. If you’re looking to pitch a tent, Cottonwood Campground is nice (I’ve heard mixed reviews on the cabins); don’t have any first-hand knowledge on other accommodations. Didn’t eat at Polly’s either. I stopped at Bighorn Fly & Tackle to get info on conditions; decent shop, nice folks. I didn’t see more than a couple midges hatch, fished scuds/zebras the whole time, had my legs turn into a pair of concrete pillars with cinderblock feet after an hour wading that very cold water, and had an absolutely wonderful time. If you’ve never been there, it’s worth the trip; fantastic fishing, beautiful scenery and amazing birdlife; just don’t expect the Montana Wilderness Experience.
Regards,
Scott
If you’re looking for variety, lower crowds of anglers, and the chance for fishing small water in near-total solitude when you’re not floating, the Bighorn isn’t your river. It’s the only game around that area without driving 2+ hours, at least for trout. Though it doesn’t see as many total use-days as the Madison or probably even the Yellowstone or Missouri, 90% or more of the pressure (probably more like 95%) is within 13 miles of the dam. Compare this to 100 or so popular miles on the Yellowstone and about 50 on the Madison. On the Bighorn you will almost always share your section of river with 20-50 other boats, plus wading anglers. The fish are big and plentiful, but there’s not a lot of variety to the water or fishing techniques, and in the summer you won’t shed crowds.
If you’re looking for variety, you’re much better off basing out of or near Livingston. You’re right on the Yellowstone, ten minutes from the spring creeks, half an hour from the E. Gallatin, an hour from the Gallatin Canyon, 1hr-2hrs from anything you’d want to fish in YNP, and 1-2hrs from anything you’d want to fish on the Madison. With a focus on floating the Yellowstone, you could see several different water types and fish species compositions requiring different techniques, plus have mountain creeks, the park, or the other options mentioned above for when you don’t want to float the Yellowstone.
Livingston also has a much wide range of options in terms of lodging and food than Ft. Smith.
Another option would be to spend a couple days in Ft. Smith, then a few in Livingston. It’s about 3hrs drive time between the two.
If that sounds interesting, there’s a lot of info in the How-To section of my website, www.parksflyshop.com, especially the Trip Planning pages. Obviously I’d like it if you decided to fish with us, but the Trip Planner can be a “guide book” no matter who you fish with.
thanks for the info so far. i realize fishing the big name waters will have crowds but i do want to experience some of the name streams at some point. whether is the bighorn, bighole, madison, YS, etc. i’d like to say i fished it. SW MT is also on the radar and would like to explore a trip there. what led me to the bighorn river fly shop is the great guide package they have, 4 night 3 day offer is better than others i’ve looked at. that’s why i wanted some feed back as to how good of a service they provide. also i’d like to fish mid to late september with several days guided and the rest on our own.
so again thanks to you all for responding and hope other can chime in, even for other areas and offers. I will check out your web site longs for cutts.
The advantage of the Madison River is that there are two sections that do not allow fishing from drift boats. So a walk and wade angler is at no disadvantage to drifters. The top section from Hebgen Lake to Quake Lake and from Quake to Lyon Bridge is wade only fishing. The bottom section from Ennis to Ennis Lake is also wade only fishing. With a float tube, or by shore wading, you can fish either Hebgen or Quake, or the take the $3 Bridge Road to Wade and Cliff lakes.
http://www.anglerguide.com/montana/access089.html
http://www.anglerguide.com/articles/235.html
If you want to try a small creek, Fish Beaver Creek along Beaver Creek Road off of US 287. Be very careful you don’t get stuck if you try it by car.
I was there last probably in 2003 or so, stayed at Eagle’s Nest Lodge. Was there in md-August.
I remember it being windy as hell and cold for 3 of the 4 days we fished. At times, just to get a cast out, we resorted to 8 weights (the fish are so fat and strong, an 8 weight was fine from a fighting perspective. For those three days, the fishing was almost entirely nymphing with Ray Charles’s, San Juan Worms, and Pig Stickers.
That one nice day, we spent the morning chasing carp on the surface at Yellow Tail reservoir. I HIGHLY recommend this. Then in the afternoon, we went back to the river and got some chances to fish on top with size 18 black caddis.
I do not remember 50 boats. Twenty maybe, but not 50, and we were spread out pretty soon.
I’d imagine you’d have to go to Hardin to find food. I’d guess you’d probably be relegated to diners, fast food, and maybe a bar or three.
For whats it is worth, I fished the Big Horn for several days in 2009 (July). Water was high but I took my own drift boat. For the first day, I hired a guide Name was Jim Wilkins and he has an outfitting service right there in Fort Smith – called Otter Creek Outfitters (406-784-6185 – was the number, probably still the same). Jim showed me the river and how to fish it and the rest was pretty much a no brainer. I would definitely use him again. I think he also has a house and accomadations available right around the corner from the BH Fly Shop – but frankly don,t remember because we camped at Cottonwood. The Big Horn Trout Shop was probably the nicest shop in Fort Smith/Yellow Tail. There is a place called the Fort SMith Fly Shop and Cabins that might work – seemed ok but check around. They also guide. Fort SMith/Yellow Tail (depending on what side of the street you stand on for what you call the place) is pretty rustic. There was gas available at a minimarket but you might check with a fly shop about that too. The fly shops are pretty well equiped as far as gear goes.
September might be getting on to a little colder type of weather. The river that time of year is probably somewhat low so if it is, you might be able to wade a lot of it.
I would also say that if you go there, it isn’t too far away from the Custers Last Stand Battlefied and monument – very well work taking a day to see it.
Here’s what i know. I talked with some folks that fished it last May and the fishing was awesome they had been going later in the year for like 10 years and I was told that it was the best.
I was there in the last of Aug. it was 110* and windy. Right at sunset the wind dyed down and the bugs came off. I watch old hands fishing nymphs and they were catching some nice fish. I stuck with dry’s and catch the fish they did.
I haven’t fished the Bighorn, but my daughter has. Some of the guides and shops sponsor a youth trip each summer and my daughter got to participate in 2010. That river is an incredible fishery.
The trip was set up so that she got to fish with four different guides. Her favorite guide was Merritt Harris.
My daughter stayed at Absaraka Cabins, bighornfishingbearlodge.com , I spent one night here also. I very much recommend these cabins if you ever go fish the Bighorn River. The cabins are very nice.
The Bighorn Trout Shop is a great fly shop in Ft Smith, www.[b]bighorntroutshop.com[/b] . The folks running it were very friendly and helpful.
We flew into Billings and went to Yellowstone for a few days before going to the Bighorn. Going between Yellowstone and Ft Smith is not too bad of a trip. However, we went to Glacier while she was fishing and that was a LONG trip.
As mentioned, other than the Little Bighorn Battlefield (neat place to visit), there isn’t much else in the area, but the Bighorn is worth the trip.
I’m planning to go back and fish it myself this time.
Good luck,
Rex
I am biased: I guide on the Horn and the Yellowstone as well. The Horn is my fav tailwater and the Stone is my favorite freestoner. If you have not fished the Horn it should be on your list.
Having said that, you should not spend a week on the Horn. 3 days are plenty. If you have more time go to the Yellowstone Park area, ie: call longsforcuts. Those guys will take care of you in YNP. Also, there is very limited, but some fun, trout water close to the Horn. Fort Smith is a tout bum town: One place to eat (Ok 2 if you stay at the Trout Shop), one small store and a few fly shops. There is no bar. That is in Hardin, 40 miles away.
Are you driving from sw Pa? I am from Pa and have made that drive many times. If you drive then you will get to the Horn first, driving west. If so, hit the Horn, then make the Beartooth hwy drive into YNP. Have a great trip!
Been going to the Bighorn for many years. The several of the places above are very good. The link below is to a guid that I have used for many years, Jamie Benedickt. He is a great guide, very knowledgeable about the Bighorn and many other rivers. He works very hard, has a lot of patience and goes very much out of his way to make sure that you catch fish. On several occasions he has had our boat pulled out and took us to another section of the river. We were catching good fish too…but not enough to satisfy him…like I said he is a great guide. Note that there is an outfitter/fly shop that is associated with the restaurant that is there in town. If you HAVE To eat there, it is okay but it is very dirty inside, at least it was last year. Dinner at the bighorn trout shop is $30.00 per person with reservations required in advance. There is a little store in town that has a mini deli that is pretty good. The bighorn river fly fisher is the one that owns Pollys Restaurant, if you book with them, absolutely do not stay in those fishermans quarters! They are old dilapidated trailers that are moldy, musty and in very poor repair. Ask for other lodging if you use them.
If you drink, make sure to take everything with you. There is NO booze availble there in town.
6wt 9-9 1/2 foot rods work well on the river. Be sure to take an extra rod and reel and rain gear. The guide listed below furnishes all of the flies and lunch is provided. He picks you up where you stay and brings you back at the end of the day. Usually you are nymphing and use 9 foot 1-2x leaders they they will modify as needed. If you get into hoppers, that is absolutely awesome fishing and those big browns will jump out of the water to jump on one of those flies.
Use the guy below and you won’t be disappointed.
Jamie Benedickt Wild West Fly Fishing Link Regards, Joe
http://www.wildwestflyfishing.com/
Joe,
Love the music on that site and the pic of that thunderstorm is spectacular.
Regards,
Scott
Here are some pics from the last couple of years.
http://s1018.photobucket.com/albums/af309/HickoryShad/FAOL%20Pics%201/
Here are some pics from the past couple of years
http://s1018.photobucket.com/albums/af309/HickoryShad/FAOL%20Pics%201/
Joe,
Them’s some nice fishies.
Regards,
Scott
