http://www.tackletour.com/reviewezpackerpg2.html
Could be the answer for us old guy’s that have to car top.
Cool!
Doug
Well Jack as standing member of NBOF, AND owning a 'Toon, guess I’ll have to give an opinion on this doo-hicky thing!?!
Currently, I’ve got a whopping, whole, $16.00 invested in my 'Toon rack that fits on my Honda CRV’s factory roof rack and has worked great for many, many, moons now.
But, even at only 47#s, it DOES get tiring loading and unloading my boat, as I often do 1-3 times a day depending on the area that I’m fishing. This thing, looks to be much easier!
I must have missed it, (not surprisingly of course), but I take it this rack "slides into an existing “buddy box type hitch receptor”, or does it require its own set up?
I, also, was “cornfused” when in ONE paragraph… he lists the price as $229.00, then a paragraph, later, it’s up to $239.00!?
Regardless, I think it’ll have its own “nitch”, in 'Toon boat hauling!
At less than $250.00 it looks like a good deal.
And for the Cornfused one go back a page and it shows lots more pictures of the hitch and neato stuff you may have missed.
Jack
Your link started on page 2. this link starts on page one. 
We can’t have byflinder being cornfused.
Thanks GNF. That clears up a lot of questions.
However to add more confusion, when I visited the Tackle Tour site the price was $299.00!!
I have a friend building a slightly mofified version for me that will be a lot less.
Before I’d lay out that kind of money plus shipping I’d check with a local fabricating shop.
Paul has a good point about car topping. The 'toon seems to get heavier each time you load it!
Thanks a lot, Gnu!
Man, if my fellow NBOFs’, didn’t keep an eye on me, I’d end up like… like… I’d end up something!?! So, if Jack saw “$299.00” for this thing then in two pages the seller is quoting three, different, prices!? Hmmm. Sure, it’s only an oversight, no biggie.
Jack, if you’re having one fabricated, I wonder if “piston assist”, (like one large one in the middle of the frame), would be an option? Sort of along the lines of a hatch-back window/tailgate assembly!?
Was just doing some very dangerous thinking and it seems, with this rack, you’re still not only “lifting your 'Toon” from horizontal to vertical, but also lifting the frame’s weight to a degree as well!? (a fulcrum part of its weight, that is).
Paul;
That’s something to think about.
Although as you swing the pontoon to the verticle position more of the weight should be transfered to the pivot point.
Just think of the load and unload time saved! I have actually carried a small step ladder to make it easier to strap or unstrap mine from the car top carrier!
Well, fellow NBOF member, NOW you’ve done it… I’ve been playing with my engineering CAD program, here on my pooter and I’ve moved the mounting plate of this new invention…out 7.3 inches and figured out a way to mount a 12volt boat trailer winch, with two pulleys, so the whole thing is now electric.
Of course, this is ALL way too much overkill, but hey… it’s winter, I’m weird and wanted to see if it could be done!?! Besides… “Having your 'Toon, slowly and gently electrically lowered to the ground as you string up your rod”, I think shows a certain “class”… that only certain members, of certain online forums, would/do, possess!?!
I mean, just think… to have HALF the class, that Gnu Bee has…wouldn’t that be worth the extra cost in itself?
Paul;
I would set the “Drop Speed” not only to let me string up my rod but also don my other gear. Then just slide the 'toon into the river and go fishing while my 'tooning buddies are still humping the oars, lunch, etc. to their ‘toons!
Something to keep you busy with your cad program. How would you build one that would be a fit all carrier? Make it adjustable so to speak. The one I’m having made would not work for a 10’ 'toon.
Oh, great… NOW ya’ want me to THINK? Gesus, Jack, give a guy a break!
“10’ 'Toons, are going to be a problem, I think, because “with length can come width problems”. Not, always, but at times, depending on brand of boat.
Also, a height situation is going to rear its ugly head. because you’re either going to be, perhaps, too high and the wind is going to beat the ends of your toons to death on the highway, orrrrrrr, the first “bad angled driveway ramp” and there goes the ends hanging down!?!
Not, to mention, not ALL SUVs have “side exhaust”…as in my own, Honda CRV. I measured my CRV, today, and if I used this existing design and my boats loaded 2” too far to the right side… blamo, I’ve just burnt a huge hole in the right side pontoon! Although, it appears by this gent’s design, that his rack is self centering and that’s perhaps not a problem.
As for “adjustabilty”, the simple “one square tube, sized smaller than the outer square tube, with drilled holes and clevis pins” should be easy enough, in the vertical arms.
Jack,
I was glad to see you did not send out an order for one…and instead…Sought out someone who could weld you one up in an afternoon…It was the first thing that I thought of while paruseing the pic’s!! But I work in a scrap facility and have such things at my disposal on an everyday basis…And if you found a guy who could weld/heal aluminum…that weight thing could also be a thing of the past as well.
Jack
You just solved a potential problem for me.
I usually haul my toon around in a long bed pick-up. In fact it was my excuse to buy my first truck.
Now I am seriously thinking of buying a Truck Camper and was thinking about how am I going to haul the toon? Put the dirty, wet toon in the camper?
Nope-Buy one of these racks. Wonder if they would design one for a couple of toons?
I do have a friend that has one. They are nice. Limits are however the length of your boat. He has an 8’ pontoon and it seems to be okay although a little scary going over rough terrain.
The problem I have is I have an 11 1/2’ pontoon and this is just not going to work. Plus the trailer is so simple. Pull boat on, strap down and go.
There has got to be wind resistance, even when we pack one of our boats on the roof, you can tell it is there and the gas does go down a little. Don’t notice either of those effects with a trailer.
But, then again, that thing is easier to stow and aluminum would be the icing on the cake.
They have been around for a lot of years, but you don’t see too many of them…wonder why?
Get off your butts and go to the gym or senior center and do some strength training. Not only will you be able to toss your 'toon on top if your SUV with little effort, but you will receive various other health benefits. Paul, your situation may be different, but anyone else in reasonably good health should continue to work their muscles and not get lazy. I have a few friends that are well past the 75-80 year marks, and they continue to challenge their bodies to maintain good health.
Jack, you’re in pretty good shape for an old **** (Ed told me to say that:lol:). Don’t get lazy on yourself cuz it will cost you in the future.
Back to my jelly donuts and latte.
Joe
It would be only for 9’ or shorter pontoons, mine is 8’. I can get a nice trailer from Tractor Supply for a lot less when you also throw in shipping.
But, then I have to get insurance to cover pulling a trailor! Also, there are quite a few access spots here that are very tight for a vehicle and trailor!
Paul, I did take into consideration of the location of the exhaust.
Max, You wouldn’t have as much sticking over the top of a truck camper to offer wind resistance and you could incorporate a full width carrier on it to use as a step up to the camper as well as for extra gear. Hmmmmmmm!! (Get your CAD program running Paul!)
Honestly, on the back of a camper, there’s really no reason design wise that one couldn’t put a simple “swivel pin hitch”, into the tongue assembly itself.
It’s very hard to describe, sorry, in only using words but with a swivel joint at the “tongue” of this rack…(say, 10" out, from where it enters the receiver hitch), you could actually still leave the boat in its upright, “on end” position and swing it over, to the left or right to access the rear door of any camper.
Two, “half moons”, of plate aluminum or steel, (I’d suggest, steel, for wearability), with a center pin for the anchor point, your square tube tongue fits between the two plates. Then a second and third pin hole at varying positions so you could leave the boat swung to the side, while in camp, without the wind or motion of the camper, allowing the boat to swing back against the rear door.
You would have to work out the exact angle, the boat would swing to… say 45degrees to the angle of the back of the camper and if that would allow you still to have full access to the camper’s door. Otherwise, it’d be a hassle to make the tongue bar so long, as to swing the boat out to a full 90degrees to the camper’s back wall.
With my own boat, in the CAD, at 8’ x 49" to get a full 90degrees to the camper shell the tongue would have to extend out over 19" and that’s a bit too far, when added to its already long length. At 45 degrees, the tongue would only need to be an additional 11".
I need a drink
Watch those parking garages!