This is the first time I’ve attempted to use graphite arbors in a build, and I’d like it to be fairly right :rolleyes: , as it’s for the rod swap!! With the set up, we got a pair of ga’s. I was able, with no trouble at all, to get them filed down to the proper size for the blank … but them came the question. Do you leave them as “pairs”, one at the front end of the seat, and one the back end? If so what do you do for the mid section? Leave it open? Put a few rounds of tape? I’m guessing the “divots” in the arbors are there to hold epoxy, and are not guides to cut the arbors? Think; spacing them the length of the reel seat?? Anybody on now with an answer? Surely, I’m not the only one using them for the first time, and not a clue on how to use them!!!
2 or 3 are all thats needed. 1 fwd; 1 aft and if you use 3…put one in the middle
Sully,
I don’t mean to be a total dunderhead … but … 2 or 3 is all that’s needed … OK, is that 2 or 3 of the full sized (inch or so long arbor), or 2 or 3 segments of the arbor?
LOL…I wont say it…I wont say it…lol
2 or 3 that are approx 1" long. Some reelseats you only need 2…others that may be longer you may need 3
EDIT: BTW…I noticed you said you got them reamed out to fit OK. I never did that with them. Id measure the blank where each was to go…and drilled tight thru the arbors with a drill press and pliers to hold it. You just need to be “close” and not the sort of fit as say the cork grip. When drilled out…I’d slide them back into place; slobber them up with Rod bond and do my final position and let them dry
Thank you. You were too kind (not to say anything!!)
Rod in progress!
In response to the edit; Whoa! Kewl! Something I can ask Santa for! A drill press!
On sale at Harbor Freight now for $50 or $60. The drill bits will cost you almost as much as the drill press.
I’m asking Santa for a lathe. 
Roger Seiders, President of Flex Coat, talks in one of his books about using cork and masking tape bushings (arbors). I’m not going to get into the difference of materials the arbors are made of, I’m just pointing out that Seiders states: “… it is important to realize that the tape is used only as a spacer - the attachment of the reel seat must be a strong bond of epoxy glue extending from the blank to the reel seat.”.
Whatever materials you chose for arbors (if needed), the arbors act only to center the blank in the reel seat. A solid (full length) arbor glued to the blank and the seat glued to just the arbor is going to be a weaker joint than if the reel seat is glued directly to the blank.
Very true. Ever “joint” is a potiential weak joint…but its hard to do without an arbor of some sort when the rod blank is approx .35-.43 OD…and the reelseat is about .76 ID
True! Even the cheapest of bench top drill presses will do fine for rod building. I paid a whopping $88 from Sears years ago.
I made a killing on bits though. Got all the drill bits ( resharpened ones) and long reamers I could CARRY ( must have been 45-50 POUNDS of them) for FREE!!!