Electric Dread — Fly Pattern

OK everyone here we go…bear with me as I am a hack tier and self taught
but the end result is what we are after…also let me say this fly has caught
every gamefish in Biscayne Bay and has become my #1 fly overall for all flats
fishing…the results are simply overwhelming starting with big bonefish,
they love it and will run to attack even a fly laying perfectly still in the
weeds…I fish them unweighted when conditions are very calm and prefer to use
it as a suspended pattern when water is under 1ft…this is when a light fly can
be put 6 inches off the nose…shown is a medium weight using beadchain,
good for 1-3ft…also I use heavy lead on others…I usually use the black
colored lead because it looks cool…ok now you are ready.

PHASE 1- 1st find the raw materials as shown such as hook size, feathers,
glass beads, beadchain, crystal wire and most importantly the EDGEBRIGHT…I
went to the dollarstore and found some cheap trinkets made from the same
material…I have not seen edgebright in years but it was used for a fly
called “Dean River Lantern” and this fly is a hybrid from Alaska…you will need
to cut a thin strip to be used for ribbing, a piece for the shell and a piece
cut like a goose biot.…shown in pictures ALSO you need to cut a 4 inch
piece of 40lb mono and bend as shown then color the ends with BLACK SHARPIE as
shown…this is important to bring out color in the eyes…slide the bead on
and melt the mono slightly and push down into the bead to form actual
eyeball…now take the eyes and hang them so you can fill the bead itself with
superglue…this secures the bead and also brings out the black core and adds
overall iridescence to the eyes…see picture…I let it dry for 10 minutes
because it will be ruined if you leave a fingerprint on the bead.

PHASE 2- Secure the hook in vise and wrap the hook with the flourescent orange
floss…while doing so secure the beadchain eyes and tye in the goose biot
shaped edgebright as shown….now you are starting to roll…note position of
edgebright…this is why we used this style hook son.

While you are at it you should now add a pinch of flourescent CALFTAIL…I like
pastel orange but you can use safety orange also…then a few stands of FLASH
and the all important EYES…then put a small drop of superglue at the tye-ins
and let the thread soak it…CAREFUL with the glue…1/4 drop will do…don’t
forget to do the same for the beadchain because nothing sucks like sloppy
loose wraps…picture gives detail of placement and amount…eye placement is
important and will have effect of making the fly inverted or not…I prefer
inverted so I angle them as shown…are you still with me here?

PHASE 3- OK now you have your framework done and time to add the meat…this is the
exact material I use…many substitute chenelle for crystal wire…if you do
‘YOU’RE FIRED’…best place is to go is an art store because the color sharpie is
the entire key to the fly…it simply can not be substituted IMO…also I will
most times leave the wire inside for extra weight but also for the effect of
'MOLDING" the shape without stacking wrap over wrap…got that Vern? pictures
will help you find the truth…its out there.

1st tie in the shellback

2nd tie in the ribbing

3rd tie in the material

4th tie in 2 feathers staggerd as shown in picture.

5th add another micro drop of superglue to all tie-ins.

Wrap crystal wire forward and shape into shrimpy type body…remember why
you left the wire inside? Well use it to help you now…this really stacks the
wire tight and sets the lines for you feathers to follow…all part of the
plan Dan…look at pictures to make sense of what I am saying…as stated the
SHARPIE color shown is what the fly is all about…I’m watching you so don’t let
me down.

Now that you have colored it two times and let it soak into the material you
can wrap the feathers forward and secure behind the beadchain.

Now you are going to pull/stretch the shellback over the body and secure IN
FRONT of the beadchain…before that you should kinda adjust the hackle to
make it more creature like and even because as you wrap the RIBBING forward
you will be segmenting the LEGS…look at the pictures.

Now that it is ribbed nice and tight you add the 3 'DOTS OF DEATH with
Sharpie and coat entire shell with superglue and let dry.

You’re not done yet…you totally forgot the weedguard dude!!! jeez.

Of course you need to leave it a little long and trim on location and press
into shape.

Here is a brother of the one in the text…it is unweighted.

Now you have the keys to unlocking Biscayne Bay…the results will be
this…good luck and thanks for following along…now go get you some!!!

~ Cordell Baum Jr. (bonefishwhisperer)

About Cordell

Cordell is a guide for world class fishing in Miami, FL.

You can read more about him, and reach him at
www.bonefishwhisperer.com_
~ DLB

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Originally published August 4, 2008 on Fly Anglers Online by Deanna Lee Birkholm.