If any of you experienced rod builders would be so kind to take a look at the above link and tell me if you think this would be a suitable rod jig let me know. Also if you have better plans it would be greatly appreciated if you would share.
After all it is all your fault for putting the bug in me.
I think my first build will be an 8 or 9 ft 3wt, Now I need to shop around for the right blank.
I built my own jig as well, and it has worked very well for me. It is very much like the one pictured. I used a 1/4" bolt, a spring, two flat washers and a wing nut to fashion a tensionable thread spool. I used two on my jig for two different colors of thread.
I also built my own rod turner for drying without drips or sags, using a salvaged turntable motor out of a dead microwave oven. I fashioned a clamp for the rod handle using PVC pipe and three setscrews. It works very well also, and the motor only turns about 10 rpm. I got the motor for only the trouble of taking it out of the micro, but found some on ebay for only 5 or 6 dollars.
The “jig” from steelheader.net will do what you need it to do. Another free standing section with the bottom of the “V” at the same height as those on the base would be a good idea, to support longer sections of rod, for wrapping and for drying, if you are going to incorporate a drying motor.
I don’t know how the mousetrap thing works, but I wonder if it lets you adjust tension as readily as the thread tensioner system shown in the steelheader.net directions ?? The amount of tension you use on the butt section can be quite a bit higher than what you can use on the tip section - nice to have some flexibility and adjustment.
The one thing I would leave off the steelheader.net jig is the cup hook located on the thread tensioner carriage ( so the thread can be brought up from the bottom while wrapping ). Two things - cup hooks can be kind of rough on thread ( from what I read in several threads on rod wrapping ), and there can be some advantage to bringing the thread over the top while wrapping, directly from the spool. What several folks suggested in place of the cup hook, if you are going that route, was a good quality tip top which is very smooth and will not damage your wrapping thread.
I use an old Herter’s rod wrapper like this one
Pretty much, I use only the tensioner and rarely put the rod down into the ‘rabbitears’
I can see what I’m doing far better if I’m holding the rod in my hands and doing the wrapping right in front of my face
Thanks for all the input guys I do appreciate it. I think I will go with the jig from steelheader.net and with Johns suggestion I will forgo the hook eye, maybe go with a tip top guide or just let it come over the top of the blank.
Thanks for all your help and please stand by as I am sure more questions will be coming.
scubatim—if you make that wrapper —you can buy a thread tensioner at a sewing machine store —its pretty precise—gear motors can be bought at Mcmasters.com for about 20 bucks new if you cant pirate one somewhere.
Tim,
Be sure to check out the rodbuilding info on FAOL’S Main page. Also Jack Hise has several “Traveling” Rodbuilding DVD’s, let Him know you want to see one.
Do forget the cuphook - I go straight to the blank.
Also, to “add tension” using the mousetrap - I add cardboard shims under the spool and the spring adds the tension.
Pretty cheap and simple. Works fine.
Don’t get all hung up on the jig - build a rod to get the experience. My first few rods were built using a cardboard box with V’s cut in it and bringing the thread through a phone book for tension. After I saw that I could actually produce a fishable rod, I built the jig.
good advice—i made my first rod in the mid 60’s and im still using a stack of books for tension but just roll it in my hands—ive been using spiderwire to pull my thread through—it never breaks