I was wondering if anyone knew if a factory luggage rack is strong enough to safely carry a canoe? Specifically I’m asking about a Ford Expedition factory luggage rack. Has anyone tried it and did it work?
Thanks,
Rex
Rex,
There were a few threads on this too: [url=http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/Forum1/HTML/010993.html:dcfef]http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/Forum1/HTML/010993.html[/url:dcfef] [url=http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/Forum1/HTML/012389.html:dcfef]http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/Forum1/HTML/012389.html[/url:dcfef]
I use Yakima cross bars on the stock rack of an Explorer.
The roof load limit for these Ford’s is around 70 lbs, so a canoe is no problem.
On the Expedition, there are long rails and what appear to be stock cross bars (adjustable). My rack clamps ONTO the long rails. (canoe is 17 ft long and over 65 lbs). I believe the stock cross bars should be able to handle a canoe.
As a little bit of security, when you tie down the canoe, don’t secure it to the cross bars, but rather the long rails.
Christopher Chin
Jonquiere Quebec
[url=http://pages.videotron.com/fcch/:dcfef]http://pages.videotron.com/fcch/[/url:dcfef]
[This message has been edited by fcch (edited 10 May 2005).]
[This message has been edited by fcch (edited 10 May 2005).]
Not your SUV, but… We have a 2001 'Burb 2500 that we pull a travel trailer with. I called Chevy to ask about putting a Thule carrier on the roof. They told me that the max weight on the rack was 100 lbs. Even with an empty Thule up there, they sagged. We added a set of Thule bars, in addition to the stock Chevy bars and they work great.
We can carry a full Thule and a canoe with no problems.
The problem with the standard rack is not the weight of the canoe, approx 80 lbs?
The greatest force is exerted when an opposing vehicle in traffic passes in the opposite direction.
Read a semi at 70mph and you at 70 in opposing directions.
The upward pull of the canoe is tremendous.
You are liable if the canoe is released from your vehicle.
I would not trust a factory rack!!
Be sure it is fastened securekly to the gutter.
Mrdi,
I agree that the forces exerted on the canoe from passing vehicules is more significant than just the weight of the load.
Unfortunately, gutters are hard to find on some vehicules (read - most vehicules).
The long rails on many SUV’s are pretty solidly attached to the vehicule.
That’s why, I cinch down the strapps going AROUND the crossBar/Long rail joint. This way, the canoe is actually attached to the roof of the SUV, and not just the cross bar.
On longer trips, I’ll use bow and stern lines too as that really helps. Not to keep the canoe from sliding around, but to keep the ends pointed in the right direction. (that is down).
Christopher Chin
Jonquiere Quebec
[url=http://pages.videotron.com/fcch/:13561]http://pages.videotron.com/fcch/[/url:13561]
Rex,i don’t have a expedition but have a fourrunner that states holding up to 120lbs.
I carry a 45lb royalex canoe on mine and
recently purchased a fulton canoe carrier
that mounts in the hitch,so now i have the
two crossbars and the T hitch that the
canoe rest on,no probs,how much does the
canoe weigh?Ever thought of a trailer?if
its too heavy?
I use factory bars on my Ford Explorer but would never, ever consider not using bumper tiedowns on the bow and stern. My biggest fear are the semis. Meeting always causes me to look up for there will be a day when things catch just right and off she goes. I’ve been looking into a Trule, but for my small town country weekly pay, that’s a chunk. Of course, the salesman told me that while it sounded “spendy” it was certainly a cheap insurance for a neatly built cedar strip. Maybe I should check E-Bay. JGW
Yakima or Thule racks are stronger than factory but whatever rack you chose
USE A BOW AND STERN TIEDOWN EVERY TIME!!!
The blue truck pictured does not have them and I must say I have seen boats come off of racks but are held to the vehicle by the bow and stern tiedowns.
Try this canoe/kayak site for good topics on racks: [url=http://www.paddling.net:00e06]www.paddling.net[/url:00e06]
fcch…do a search about subaru factory racks pulling right off of the roof of the vehicle. The boat and the whole factory rack pulled out of the roof of the car. It might be on the paddling.net site.
[This message has been edited by kbobb (edited 10 May 2005).]
I use the factory rack and foam blocks out past the rack with a 75 pound canoe. The blocks distribute the weight so the rack does not carry it all. Also the blocks allows me to place the canoe just were I want it for tying down.
Mike
Thanks for the comments and links everyone. It sounds like the safest option would be to upgrade the factory mount with an after market rack such as Thule, etc. I fished out of a canoe earlier this spring and enjoyed it. So, I was just thinking about borrowing or renting a canoe a few times before investing any significant amount of money in one. I already have a boat so I was trying to decide if I could do a few canoe trips a year cheaply.
Thanks,
Rex
Hi RexW. We have a '98 Expedition and have always used the factory rack on it. We carry a big and heavy Old Towne sport square stern. We have never had any trouble, nor even a hint of concern.
We separate the crossbars as far as possible. We use two web straps over the canoe fixed to the crossbars. The rest of the rig includes two stabilizer ropes at the front of the canoe that go to web strap loops we’ve attached to fender bolts (just under the sides of the hood), a rope from the front of the canoe to a tiedown at the front bumper, and a healthy nylon rope from the front of the canoe, along the rooftop to a tie down point on the rear bumper.
The order of snugging is
- Stabilizer ropes, to center the canoe
- Front tiedown
- Rear tiedown
- Web straps
It is VERY secure. I laugh in the face of semi’s. The Expedition sways more than usual when we meet one, but the canoe does not budge.
Jim
kbobb,
I’ll look into that, … Thanx for the
heads up.
I rarely use the stern and bow tie downs, but I WILL NOW.
Pretty cheap insurance I figure.
Christopher Chin
Jonquiere Quebec
[url=http://pages.videotron.com/fcch/:5ab53]http://pages.videotron.com/fcch/[/url:5ab53]
Pssshhaaa! Here I thought this was a post about using a luggage rack ON your canoe! I know people float with a lot of excess stuff…a luggage rack might be a good idea!
Trouts don’t live in ugly places
FWIW - I am also an occasional canoer so I went the cheap route:
- Took 2 2x4’s and cut them to the width of the Explorer (also use an Escape sometimes)
- Covered them with scraps from old carpet
- position them against the rook racks
- use bow, stern tie downs
- for longer trips I sometimes also use a center strap through the back windows.
Works great, cost less than $20 for the tie downs.
RexW.
You can place the canoe on your roof or roof rack and tie the straps around the canoe and under the roof. This places all the force upwards from wind etc. against the straps which are secured by the roof of your car. The rack only holds the weight. Or get the foam blocks and then your rack becomes irrelevant. Dont forget a strap from the front of the car to hold down the front end. and you’re in like flint!
Total cost $30 for blocks and straps, and it is universal so it will work on any vehicle.
jed
What I did was take a couple of pieces of 2X4 lumber the right length to span the roof of the vehicle, set them on the factory rack next to a cross bar, then cut them so they fit on the side rails. Next, fasten them to the cross bars with U-bolts. This makes a secure rack at a fraction of the price of an after-market rack (have you priced Yakima to Thule racks lately?).
HighNDry–can you post a picture of your rack. I’m a bit on the dense side, but I like what you’re saying. Do you do as the others with carpet covering. I did something similar to this with an old van of mine but used a rain gutter thing. My Explorer has no rain gutter. Thanks. JGW