Kind of embarrasing lads so please go easy on me. I used Gorilla glue to secure the cap on a 8’ 6wt 1000 Series Lammy and forgot to include the sliding band. :oops: :oops:
My question is could a hand torch heat the glue enough to loosen(it’s black aluminum) as a heat gun or boiling doesn’t budge it!!!
I will remove it with lethel force :twisted: if i have to but sure would like to salvage the seat.
Thanks in advance.
Salmon Chaser
How about a hose clamp ? :roll:
With helpful insights like that you should possibly write a book!! :roll:
Anyone else have experience with gorilla glue and the method used/temperature needed to break the bond?
Thanks lads.
Salmon Chaser
A book sounds like a good idea to me . I title it " A Plumbers Guide To Rodbuilding ".
Salmon Chaser,
I had an occaision to replace a reel seat on a boo rod that had been glued on using gorilla glue. A call to the manufatcurer resulted in me using a knife and file to remove the reel seat. According to the manufacturer, Gorilla Glue won’t melt or soften. Looks like force is your only option.
Just to double check, call the folks who make it.
REE
redacted/////
Salmon Chaser.what kind of reel seat is it? and don’t feel too bad, we have all had those sorts of misfortunes. I had to remove a butt cap once that heat wouldn’t do the job on. Fortunatley, I had another butt cap and very carefully drilled the center of the butt cap out, then worked it out with a rotary file on a dremel tool. the other butt cap concealed the roughness created on the inside of the seat. shouldn’t be to difficult to get another butt cap, the big deal is do you have the patience to grind away the old butt cap?
Salmonchaser, a friend had a split hosel precision welded by a jeweler friend. Why couldn’t you saw or snip the slide band open, expand it barely enough to slip it over the butt cap then take the butt section to a jeweler to have it rejoined? This was explained to me as a very low heat plasma weld of some description or other. Worth checking into?
Cheers,
MontanaMoose
Salmon…after reading the responses…I feel for you!
If it were me I’d find a pal with a small 4" die grinder or the like and at 45 deg. go around the back end of the butt cap. This might allow you to tap it off with a punch or even a blunt nail or the something.
Noe you have to remove the remaining “ring”…but it’s only held on by 1/2 to 3/4 of the dia. of the seat. Maybe you could have help by someone holding it whilst you use that punch/hammer to try to tap around it to loosen her???
Lousey shot I know but other than that I think your post title says it all man!
Another suggestion if I ca nexplain it could be this.
Once you’ve removed that end (back) part of the cap so your looking at the rod butt, perhaps you could find a nut the right size so the remaining cap would slip over it when it comes loose and try this.
Put the nut on your cement floor or the like, have a friend hold the rod vertical whilst you use that punch to hammer the remaining ring loose?? Keep the rod centered or you’ll be screwed! You can refinish the spacer if it’s salvaged.
Bummer man. Betcha won’t do it again…G
Kinda like a boat plug when you launch your boat…
Good luck. Best I can come up with.
Jeremy.
I would grab it with a channel lock pliers to see if it will move at all without ruining the reelseat. Wrap some thick leather over the reelseat threads to protect it and grab that with another pair of channel locks.
When that doesn’t work, drill it out like dleo said.
Greg
Well lads, thanks for all of your suggestions. I knew the seat was pooched the second i saw the slide band on the table. Two cracks at it with boiling and a heat gun also drove the point home that it would have to be removed by force sooner or later.
I think the barrell will be fine, just a new cap is all i will need if i dont f— things up any more 
Moose, i have thought of that before and also thought of doing it with cork rings when i dont want to remove a seat or stripper to replace cork. I am going to inquire about it, just for shits and giggles.
Jeremey, I am a lobster fisherman so i know all too well that outcome :oops:
Thanks again lads, your time is appreciated. And no, i wont do this again!!!
Dwayne
aka Salmon Chaser
I think just about every reelseat manufacturer sells their hardware seperately. My suggestion would be to order a set of just hardware from the company that made your reelseat, and then just grind or file off the endcap to the point that you can remove it and slide the band onto the spacer. Then just glue on the new endcap and your all set. Let me know if you need any more help with this.
Regards,
Joe Martin
Thanks Salmon, the hosel turned out really well…it was barely noticable that it had ever been split…speaking of ‘split’…I got another idea from reading Photojoe4’s post…what if you carefully sawed the butt cap open lengthwise and spread it apart, wouldn’t it break the Gorilla Glue bond at some point?
MontanaMoose
Manufacture of Gorilla Glue recomended heat when a customer used it to glue down the adjustable comb on a shotgun and later wanted it removed. I found that quite a bit of heat was required but it wasnt so much that it hurt the polyurathane finish on the stock.
If you are going to use a torch don’t touch the flame to the rod!!!
Don
just be thankful you weren’t restoring a vintage one-of-a-kind cane rod with its original ornately engraved cap…
Happy to say i applied heat from a hand torch and the little bugger slid right off. i cleaned everything up and reassembled using epoxy. Thanks to all for your help.
SC
That’s great news !