I have built a new board since those pictures. It is completely adjustable. You can set the pegs anywhere for any leader length/taper you want.
It is not my brainchild…I saw one similar at a show in Cincinnati several years ago and came home and made my version.
Here is a picture of the new board. I will post a few more of the details after the Midwest Fly Fishing Expo…
Please excuse the messy shop…too many projects, not enough time.
That is one cool furling jig ( or whatever you want to call it ) !! An UPSCALE version of the very simple and rough-hewn jig I built for furling, based on an even cruder version used by the guy who taught me how to furl leaders.
May I suggest a new thread when you get around to posting more information on it ? In all due respect to Kathy Scott and her followers, showing some alternatives would not be a bad thing.
To y’all furlers,
Does the diameter of the peg matter from, lets say, a nail size to the absurd ( for illustration only) a baseball bat? The reason I ask is that In the photo above, Brad’s pegs are a bit larger than some machines I’ve seen. They’re usually about pencil size.
Mark;
Warren made his first one using finish nails in his porch railing (his wife did let him back in the house after a week)!
No, peg size is not critical.
I made mine that size because it is easy for me to get the thread between the loops. That’s the only reason. Make 'em with anything you want, asl ong as it is smooth.
You are right…but if you take your time when you slip the loops off of the pegs you will have no problems. My board has a weight at the far end. It takes up the slack for me.
here is a picture of the weight:
And the other end on the tip end of the leader:
The tippet spool keps each leg seperate while the furling takes place.
Of course it depends on what method you use…but if you do it as I do …hooks at the butt end but a peg at the tippet end…the size of the tippet end peg is the one that matters…once you do your twisting the tippet end has a loop the size of the peg…maybe I shouldn’t say loop since it is the length held by the clamp …which is not twisted…so when you take the clamp off the peg there is a length either longer or shorter so there is less built in twist to accomplish the furling…is that as clear as mud?
Just home and catching up on mail (snail and otherwise) to find yet another great conversation here! Thanks for the kind words, you guys, and for sharing the great ideas (like JohnScott, and many of you, I love to see them). Best of luck with all the demos, too.
I just enjoyed some time sharing furling at the Great Waters Expo - Chicago, and the most fun was the experimentation with anglers who fish for other things - Brad Bohen was making muskie flies beside me, and offered up some 16wt fluro which was ceretainly interesting to furl up. That is, until the billfish people showed up with even heavier stuff. Not fishing for those species, I’m not sure how the leaders will be, but they seemed to like them and will let me know. Those heavy leaders didn’t need any doctoring at the tippet end - the “loop” satyed open just because of the material.
The long and the short of it is, I just mailed the dvd that started this thread to day , being gone all week, and would like to welcome yet another member of the community.
Not sure what type of system you are using, not familiar with the details of Kathy’s setup, so maybe what I have to offer is of no use at all.
I have a good size fish hook attached to the tippet end “peg.” Instead of going around the peg, I run the furling material through the bend of the hook. So there is no excess or loose or unfurled material as you are describing, at least as I understand it, because of the size of the peg, when you are done furling. The finished leader is furled snugly around the hook shank. Unless … see next paragraph.
Using the fish hook to hold the tippet end of the material also lets me put a tip ring in as part of the process, before any twisting / furling is done. There is a method to run the tip ring down one leg to the tip end of the leader. Then I just put the tip ring on the fish hook, with the material free of the hook and held only by the tip ring, before starting the twisting process. When you are done furling, the tip ring is in place.
If you are interested in more details or want some clarification, fire away.
KaboomI’s board is not an ordinary furling board. Both legs are twisted at the same time, and while the twist is happening, it’s being furled at the same time. Almost to the tune of mass production. There’s more to it, and hopefully, he’ll give a complete tutorial w/pictures when he gets back. Now if we can get it in a color other than black
John…I understand…seems to me your method should give the very least amount of untwisted material…a good thing.
If I haven’t mentioned before I’ll mention…
We need to be careful when discussing stuff like this that we keep in mind the difference between twisting and furling…some folks seem to sometimes interchange the terms.
Also I have become of the school that likes to twist to the point of pigtailing…e.i. maximum twisting …vs the 10% folks…and each material has a different point of maximum twist…
My feeling is maximum twist gives the tightest furling and according to others heavy into this stuff it does relate to better performance.
The language I learned and use is : you “twist” the separate legs and then join them to “furl” them.
Don’t know if that is the language common on the BB, but it seems to be what you are saying in your comments above.
The furling method I learned involves using a mechanical device both for twisting and furling. There was a general discussion at the time about twisting until a pigtail formed and the 10% rule, but I was provided with some formulas for the number of twists and the number of furls, and the formulas work well and do what I need when building a furled leader.
Thanks to Jack I have a couple of very nicely done examples, I appreciate it Jack they made it today. As soon as the DVD makes it and I figure out exactly what my board will be I have to run and get that, should have plenty of thread to try a few out.
Kaboom I would love to have a really nice shop area to make Tool Holders, Rod Racks, Turn Inserts, furling boards, the whole deal, just no room. Always nice to look and get ideas from the next guy though!