I have Trondak Color Lock. A buddy said I should pour it through a strainer, such as panty hose, and then into a cup because there is small specks of hardened preserver in the bottle. He said I should add a few drops of water to thin it before I use it. Is that necessary? I’ve never used color preserver.
Thanks,
Bruce
If I had to strain CP before using it, I would be changing brands really fast.
Most CP is made to be used straight out of the bottle without thinning.
Is this an old bottle someone gave you to use?
Hi! I’ve had the bottle for a number of years, but it looks fine to me. I also have a bottle of Gudebrod I used on a rod several years ago to try some feather in-lays. You ever use that? It’s clear like water. The Trondak is the color of milk.
I have The Gudebrod and FlexCoat, but both are the color of milk. They dry clear, however. I don’t see any difference in the way they work for either color or inlays.
I’ll have to go home and check my Gudebrod CP. Are you sure yours is not a clear liquuid? Maybe I have something else? It’s a Gudebrod bottle for sure.
Bruce
Before I’d play with straining anything, I’d contact Trondak and ask them.
I only use CP for inlays. Flexcoat or Gudebrod have always worked just fine for me. Both of those look like milk, as Kbproctor noted.
Gudebrod does/did make a couple of CPs, maybe your clear one is one I’m not familiar with.
Still, if you have any questions about using this stuff, if you contact the folks that made it, they will help you. The folks at Gudebrod, Flexcoat, Trondak, everyone in this industry, is very helpful to anyone who seeks their advice on how to properly use their products. Just pick up the phone and you can be sure you are doing it correctly.
Buddy
I went to the Trondak, Inc. web site. In the frequently asked questions it indicates that Color Lock has a shelf life of one year and it doesn’t need diluted with water or alcohol. Mine is very, very much older than a year.
As cheap as that stuff is, just get a fresh bottle, then.
99% of what I used was Gudebrod CP…and mine WAS NOT white or any other color…it was CLEAR. Tried other brands…but didnt care for them.
Maybe they changed something. I have a bottle right here in front of me that is less than 2 months old that is a kind of watery milky color. Kind of like skim milk but a little more watery if you get my drift.
Looks like they are getting it made by a couple of somebody elses. Bottles and labels are even a little different. That would explain why one is clear and one isn’t.
Gudebrod CP formula was dramatically changed a few years back … it isn’t the same stuff it used to be.
I use U40 Color Lock and it IS milky white. It shouldn’t be strained or diluted. The bottle should be gently rolled to mix and then applied. Diluting it reduces/negates the purpose of the application … it is the solids in the CP that do the sealing.
FYI, I don’t use CP for feather inlays … I use Permagloss.
Jim -
Thanks everyone.That bottle of Gudebrod (pictured) is exactly the one I have and it is clear liquid. Mine must be very old. I’m going to order some U-40. The reason I want to use CP is because the rod blank is a dull, bland , grayish-black color and I figure keeping the threads brighter might give my rod a brighter appearance.
Bruce
I have had problems with CP and flexcoat. Small granules in the solution and not being as clear as it should be. I heat it up and it clears and appears normal. The granules go back in solution. Either heat some water in the microwave and put the bottle in it or put the bottle under a light bulb. My basement is colder at times and I am sure that is the problem.
IF you use NYLON thread, not NCP … AND you use CP … AND you don’t attempt to put a light color on that dark blank … you WILL attain your goal.
I will make the suggestion that you do a test on the area of the blank where the grip or reel seat will end up being. Then you can remove the test wrap and be no worse for wear WITH the knowledge of exactly how it will turn out.
Jim -
Hi Jim: I actually have a piece of the same blank I had to replace. I can try it on there. The thread is Scarlet Red with gray trim. I didn’t designate the thread be NCP. I forget where I bought it, but they wouldn’t send NCP if I didn’t ask for it, would they?
Bruce
Thanks for your opinions and guidance. I really do trust it!
Bruce,
One quick way to know if they sent NCP is to check your bill! Regular nylon runs about 2.99 a spool. NCP is usually double that.
I’d look at the receipt, but I’m not home and I don’t think I saved it. It has to be NCP because I would remember paying $6 for a spool of thread.
Bruce
You people are excellent on this FAOL. You always answer my questions no matter how trivial. Thanks
If the project turns out OK I’ll post some photos. If it doesn’t, well you know…ha! ha!