After seeing the responses to the deneir thread rating thread, I decided to try an experiment…
I like UNI threads in 8/0 and 6/0 for a large portion of my fly tying…It’s getting hard to find around me, seems the fly shop is always out of it, and the warehouse store doesn’t know how to sort stuff and I can NEVER find it where it’s labeled it’s supposed to be…UNI thread is polyester…
(before I get a bunch of links to where I can find it online, I know that I can order it, but I wanted to try something ‘new’ and maybe learn something in the attempt).
I went to the local JoAnn’s fabric and craft store, and looked at what they had in ‘threads’…they had LOTS…
I wanted polyester thread…I wanted to start with black…and I wanted about 8/0 (I’d take 6/0 if I had to…).
I found some Coats and Clark bobbin thread…1800 yards of it in 70 denier that looked a lot like the 8/0 sample of UNI I brought along…about $8. It’s smooth finished and seems MUCH stronger than the UNI thread.
So, I’m going to chuck some empty spools in the drill and load them up with this stuff and give it a try…If I like it, it comes in LOTS of colors.
If I don’t, I’ll have learned why ‘fly tying thread’ is better for fly tying than regular ‘thread’. Wish me luck.
i have done the same thing!
I have Coat & Clark’s METALLIC thread in pearl and one of Coat & Clark’s TRANSPARENT edition in black and white (which i use for surf flies. these are really stiff.)
joan craft usually has like 40-50% off coupons and these things cost less than $2 (i think 200 yrd per spool)
My only hesitation would be that the thread isn’t waxed, but then when I started tying no thread was waxed and we kept our beeswax handy. I still use it every now and then when I want more wax on my thread.
But I seldom if ever dub anything anymore…and I can’t think of a reason for the wax otherwise. I do have some beeswax, though, if I need it.
This stuff is listed as ‘bonded’…but I can’t find out how that was done…sometimes they use a wax, sometimes a starch (but not usually on thread intended for machine use due to build up of the starch).
In any event, tied a couple of dozen leech patterns with the thread, and so far it works very well.
Buddy, thinking much as you did…some time ago I picked up some thread at Jo Ann’s when it was all on sale @ 40% off.
I picked up a few colors to use for furled leaders…seems to work quite well as far as the process goes but I have not fished it yet.
I chose Coats & Clark Machine Embroidery trilobal polyester…it says Wt. 40 it’s looks to be of greater diameter than Uni 8/0 or 6/0 so I doubt the 40 refers to denier…
I save all my Waspi Spools, when they are empty, and reload them with, sewing thread, just as you are doing.
Many sewing threads are Mercerized Cotton, which are fine for fly tying. Some say that the colors of mercerized cotton threads are prone to fading when exposed to sunlight. My flies are either in the fly box or under the water surface, and the colors are just fine for the length of time the fly remains usable.
There are also the nylon and polester threads, just the same as in the fly shops. But the prices are more reasonable.
As for the Wax or UnWax thing with fly tying thread, all threads have some form of sealing to protect the thread surface from friction.
Mercerized: Used with cotton fiber thread. The cotton thread is treated with a caustic solution, which causes the fibers to swell to allow dyes to better saturate the cotton fibers. Mercerizing increases the cotton threads luster, as well as increasing the thread strength.
I quit using rayon floss years ago for the same reason, and started using rayon sewing thread instead.
Want to know more about thread? I wrote an article on the topic for “Tying Tips” on the subject! The article explains every aspect of thread disign and the complete process of “Construction-Fiber-Finish” that results is the finished thread that you purchase.
If the unwaxed aspect bothers you, you can always just make a quick rig to run the thread over the wax as you put it onto the empty standard flytying thread spools. If your using a drill to load the spools and have a stationary object to hold the supplying spool you could even just hold the wax in your hand on the thread as it goes on.
While I was doing research on this idea, I found way more than I wanted to know about threads and yarns…Suffice it to say that the ‘40’ on your thread is reached from a formula using thickess, how much the stuff weighs, number of fiber strands, the position of the moon when the thread was made, and the current geopolitical cost/beneift ratio at the time of spooling…pretty much useless unless you are sewing with it…
If you really want to know, google ‘yarn designations’ (I did ‘learn’ that all threads are considered yarns) and, if you can stay awake and understand it, you’ll see what I mean…
I did run a ‘waxed’ spool of the stuff. Did it pretty much as Joe suggested…if you run the drill fast enough the wax kind of melts into the thread…works, but I don’t really ‘need’ the wax…
I place it at just a bit ‘thicker’ than 8/0, not as thick as 6/0…but it’s not a ‘flat’ thread. More round in crossection.
They had several colors…black, white, red for sure, I think they had some browns/tans/greens…some colors were ‘out of stock’ (empty holes that I didn’t look at too closely). I was just looking primarily for black, but they had places for at least ten to twenty different colors on the rack.
Buddy, I tie a midge , my favorite, on C&C color #49 ,using small silver embroidary ribbing . Twisted clockwise, the thread will form its own segmentation when wrapped. I have been using this stuff for years , along with DmC floss