Hook: - For this demostration I used a #8 nymph 1x long and 1x strong. I also have it tied on a #6 hook. The larger hooks help to keep the smaller bluegill off and assist with the bass that decide to hit it.

Thread: - I use Uni 8/0 and try to match the thread color to the body.

Body: - 1/4" sandable foam which I found at FeatherCraft. Yellow has been my most successful color, but, I am sure other colors will work.

Tail: - I used marabou with 2 to 4 strands of krinkle flash tied in. Sam stated not to use too much flash in the tail. I am sure other material could be used for the tail.

Legs: - You can use any rubber leg material that you prefer and in whatever color you want.

1. Here is the hook in the vise with a thread base from eye to tail tie-in point, tail and flash tied in. After that you run the bobbin back to the eye of the hook and do a whip finish and cut the tying thread. At this point you can lay the bobbin aside for later.

2. Slice one end of the foam body at a sharp angle. Measure the body length to start behind the hook eye and end at the hook point where the angle should start. This will keep the hook gap clear for better hook setting. Carefully slice the bottom of the foam at the center line the full length of the foam to about the center of the foam cylinder and then, with your fingers, spread open the slit to assist with putting it on the hook shank.

3. Spread a couple drops of your favorite super glue on the top of the hook shank over your thread wraps. Careful to stop short of the tail tie-in point or the tail material will soak up the glue and ruin the tail action. Take the foam body and slip it over the hook shank with the glue on it and position it with the angle starting at the hook point and the body stopping behind the eye of the hook. Press the body around the hook shank and together at the bottom of the hook shank. Hold in this position until the glue sets and seals the slit the entire length. This is where reverse action tweezers come in handy to hold the body together until the glue sets. Some glue will squeeze out and if you are not careful, you will glue the popper to your fingers. Don't ask me how I know that!

4. Once the glue has set, re-start your tying thread about one hook eye width back from the hook eye and do several thread wraps in one place to create a "head" for the popper. Do a whip finish over these thread wraps, cut the tying thread and you are finished with the bobbin and tying thread. Apply some head cement or Sally Hanson to this whip finish and thread.

5. Thread your rubber leg material through the eye of a needle and insert the needle just behind the "head" of the popper on the side facing you and push it through the body at an angle so that it comes out on the back side of the body at the back. Do this step again from the opposite side which will give you two legs on each side of the popper. Trim legs to size that suits you.

6. Picture #7 shows legs in place and trimmed. I usually apply one drop of head cement or Sally Hanson at the base of each leg where they enter the body. If you don't the bluegill will yank the legs out of the body which does not affect the "fish catching" of the popper but it does give the popper a better look.

7. Your Sam's One Bug is finished and ready to go fishing.

8. This is a view of the bottom of the popper showing the slit is sealed the entire length. This is a very durable popper, easy to tie and a real fish getter! Give it a try and let me know how it works for you.