[LEFT]More time at the bench. I sometimes feel my bench is a bit like the Island of Dr. Moreau with the concoctions I’m tying, but I have fun doing it and occasionally come up with new designs or at least new variations of existing patterns. I wanted to make a topwater slider that provided very subtle action even when sitting still. I find that bass will often nose up on a pattern and stop about three inches away watching while they decide if it’s food or not. Sometimes the slightest movement triggers the strike, but it often has to be very subtle. The paddles on this pattern provide that slight movement as they continue to wiggle at the slightest movement, even tiny current like the movement of the bass. When at rest, the pattern sits in a nose-up position with the tail and paddles hanging in the water. I use a three-way swivel to attach the paddles. As you can see from the photo, I clip off one of the swivel loops to make it easier to attach the swivel to the hook shank. I start by slipping the slider head onto the hook and pushing it to the bend of the hook. Then I add a good layer of thread and give it a coat of 5-minute epoxy. Slide the head into position and let it dry. Then, I add the 3D eyes and give it a coat of UV Epoxy. Once that’s dry, I tie in the swivel with the paddles attached and give that a coat of epoxy to keep it locked in place. I tie in the tail of dyed squirrel tail in a fan shape and epoxy it in place because squirrel tail tends to be slippery and wants to come loose. The final step is to add a body made from a dubbing brush which I make. This pattern takes a few steps, but it is not at all difficult and adds a new look in the water. I use the smallest size Colorado blades to minimize the weight for casting. The three-way swivels are stainless steel. I added a photo of the split-ring pliers in case you decide to give this pattern a try. You do not have to have split-ring pliers, but it makes working with split rings a LOT easier. Just thought I’d share…
Jim Smith
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