In Search Of Perfect Cork

This article is not for the people who build one rod and purchase a $40. super grade pre made grip , such as those offerd by Strubel, Rec or maybe Sage. Instead this is intended for those who build many rods and are constantly challanged to find a superior grade of cork to make their grips.

For years now the grading of cork has been inconsitant, advertised incorrectly , and sold at prices that are becoming outragous. With no offical grading system, sellers of cork rings place their own self interpeted grades on rings and the rodbuilder is at their mercy. Grades such as Flor, Extra select, Grade A, are all bogus terms, which leaves the rodbuilder with receiving inferior grade cork to work with. Paying $3- $4.00 per ring is no insurance that you’ll receive top grade cork if you cant handle and inspect it before buying.

As most know wine stoppers, are the biggest demand for cork, as is a few rod companies with massive orders stipulating the best grade of cork. The rodbuilder is left with basically the left overs. This coupled with no offical garding system has allowed companies selling cork rings to sell inferior cork with no policing.

With all that being said , I personally am tired of being ripped off. I like many builders have resorted to using a lot of burl cork rings in stead of using the low gades of natural cork forced upon us. …Using burl cork can be nice as accents and an occassional full grip,
but making a super grade natural grip is all but impossible…This has lead me to search for other alternatives.

Now, one can argue that flaws in cork give it character. On the other hand there is little alternative for those that want a perfect cork grip short of spending mucho bucks or buying a pre-made from the above companies , which leaves the creativity completely out in making you own grips. So, what I’m presenting here is what I consider my alternative to making the “perfect” no flaws natural colored cork grip. Pictured below is a pre-shaped cylinder ready to be shaped into what ever style you want grip. This is pictured next to natural cork rings for what one seller advertised as “extra select”.

Notice the massive amount of holes in those rings, which when sanded one can nerver remove without using filler. Filler is just what it is…“Filler”. Using cork dust and glue is another method of “hiding flaws”, either method for the most part is not permanent and over time reverts back to a lousy grip.

The cylinder you see below was made from 1/4" cork flooring underlay. This is a composite cork! it comes in varied thickness (in this case I used 1/4") each piece has to be glued individualy and then dried. Once sanded (as you can see) , it produces a “totally flawless” grip, whos consitancy and color is almost the same as natural cork. The same things can be acheived , such as adding color burl or craft foam trim rings if so desired and it sands or turns the same.

Weight is all but negligent compared to that of natural cork. And with that in mind that weight is of no real concern placed at the rear of the rod. So what I’m looking for here is opinions. What do you think? Like / Dislike…Have I gone to far in search of?
Lay it on me…Ed … Ps …I will post the grip finished to shape at a later date.

You know I’ll be checking out the cork flooring underlay now !
Great idea and one fine handle that will make. I’m tired of AAA,
Flor Grade, Extra Select that is now junk compared to the cork
of yesteryear. My last 100 rings I bought, and it’s been 15 or
so years ago, were what I’d call spalted. There were even cork
crystals or whatever they’re called plus larger cavities than I
would have expected to find in so called ‘Flor’ cork. Thanks
again for the ‘flooring grade’ post !

Cheers,

MontanaMoose

Thanks for your input MM…Here is a picture of the finished product, compared to another natural grip that I dont consider a bad grip, (the natural cork grip is a tad used ) but you can see the differences in the grain and the lack of flaws. The composite will darken in time just as the natural has done…Ed

Another Angle of the same grips

There are dealers out there that do sell AAA or Fleur (sp?) grade. Top of the line cork. You deal with a reputable dealer and you get good stuff. Golden Witch, C&D Trading etc. You might have to wait because a lot of the times the good stuff is on back order.
Personally I’m not a big fan of burnt, burled, bamboo, compressed, composite and all the other “new style” cork. That’s one reason I buy the cheapest cork and wrap it in rattan. I like the old style look of rattan and it is a comfortable grip.
Sometimes it takes a little bit of luck to get some top grade cork if you want to do just a Portuguese cork grip. Ski, I feel your pain.

Always welcome Smernsky…ok, couple
questions…is the compos cork grip in the
pic the final or will it smooth more with adtl.
and finer grades of paper. I took my latest one
down with 600 grit autobody (dry) and i have to
say, spalted or not, it looks good and is dang near as smooth as glass. Maybe too smooth.

Second question, what is that cool looking item
hangin’ out the back of the reg. cork grip, some kind of rubber baby buggy bumper/rod but protector? Not seen one of those ever that I can remember…usually they’re flat.

Cheers,

MontanaMoose

purty darned cool and great thinking outside the box.
that said I prefer the “regular” looking grip.

and yes good cork rings are out there, you’ve just gotta scramble around a bit to find them. my last couple batches of 1/4"’ rings have been superb.

a couple of recently turned grips…

MM…the composite grip with final shaping was only taken down with 200 grit. It is pretty darn smooth, but the “final final” could be taken down even more with a finer grit such as 600 and it would be like glass. I dont like slippery grips an is why I never use a wood grip.
The “rubber baby buggy bumper” is actually a little leg off an old piece of electronic gear. You know the kind that has 4 little rubber bumpers on the bottom?..I drilled the end cap on the real seat and inserted it. It serves well in keeping the butt from getting all boggered up from guys like me who sit the butt of the rod on the ground to thread the rod or sometimes submerge it in a creek with a rock bottom…just another piece of my “imaginering”…LOL…Ed

There IS a cork grading system available, the vendors choose not to use it. The reason is exactly as you pointed out … zero accountability, beyond their own “marketing terms”.

I currently pay around $2.00-$2.25 per ring (1.25" OD x 0.5" W) for really good cork - CG1+. However, I buy it in 500 piece lots. The trick is making a large purchase AND waiting in line with cash in hand.

You can find some pretty nice composites on the market … just look around. Everything from faux natural cork to solid burnt cork.

BTW, the new cork flooring squares (surface material) make a pretty sporty looking grip. They are available in a whole slew of tones and patterns. They are incredibly consistent with yet a very natural look.

Yet another recent twist are the carbon fiber grips. Much lighter than cork, no limits to shaping AND less expensive than almost any grade of cork.

To me it looks like press board, but then again if we all had the same taste in rods or other things life would be very boring.

Eric

Smern, my recent grip that I took down to
600 is a little slick, but then I don’t put sealer
on my grips. If it’s too slick I’ll just go back over
it with 400 or 320 if need be but it feels nice
and ‘grippy’.

Oh, neat idea with the ‘electronic’ feet and the drilling of the plug. Gives a very clean and pro
sorta look. I like it ! Thanks for the comeback
Smernsky.

Cheers,

MontanaMoose

I must agree with you totally about the quality measurements of cork grades being fictional. I would also agree if a group of us get together and purchase a large quantity direct so as to get the quality we desire. I have admired your ability to make grips and have looked at the pictures you submit. However I like the more traditional look of cork over your present creation. Great idea

Smernsky; I admire your efforts and willingness to look at all alternatives but I have to agree with Eric. It looks kinda like press board. Just too darn uniform. I might try it with some burl mixed in on a plastic rod but to me bamboo just cry’s out for traditional cork or maybe rattan.

It seems that to get top quality cork, one is going to have to pay premium prices and maybe buy large quantities. I for one would be interested in a group buy if anyone finds a reliable source.

what about burled cork??

http://www.mudhole.com/New-Products/Exotic-Burl-Cork-Blocks

I have to agree with some of the others. It’s just to clean and looks processed. Just My opinion. Since I do a ton of bamboo restoration work I actually need some of the lower grades cork.
Look at most older rods and you will not see smooth, void free, leached cork. What you will see is a grip that gains character over the years.

That all carbon fiber grip look like it belongs to Darth Vader.
Again my 2 cents.

Remember this was an opinion poll if you will, and so far it seems the majority of folks lean toward the traditional cork with it’s inherent flaws. I wont comment either way although I found out that many people who say they want the perfect cork, after seeing it lean the other way.

Also I would be in favor of a group cork buy if any of you folks who say they are using great cork could line one up…

Keep the comments coming ! It is very interesting what is available out there. I myself had never seen a graphite grip…so this is also a learning process for us from other imagineering experts…Thanks to all who have resonded and those that still wish to do so…Ed

Ed -

I certainly admire your innovation and craftsmanship offering an alternative to those who aren’t fully satisfied with the cork available these days.

But I also prefer real cork, probably because of its flaws, not despite them. And it occurs to me that there is some simplicity to them, and I don’t get that sense from a manufactured product.

John

Words of caution: Be careful on group cork buys. It’s easy to get burned. Been there and done that.

I enjoy custom grips. I believe it is the only way to get a grip that fits my hands. Who has the “universal standard size” hand any way?
For years I have felt the grading system has been flexable by each merchant, ie, their “best” grade is the best of the current shipment, not the same standard year to year.
I have used the exotic cork rings. It is heavier and denser than real cork, but looks nice. Being much harder to shape than cork, I would not use a block. I turn on the blank and tapering the block’s hole seems like it would be difficult.

There is a way around BOTH the weight and tapering of the ID of a composite grip. Before you do anything, drill the block to accept a FlexCoat polyurethane arbor. Glue the arbor into the interior and allow to fully cure.

Now you have a block that is lighter, due to the poly core AND much easier to ream. Best of all, it is still very strong.

This same course of action can be applied to other types of grip components to reduce weight (wood, fossil ivory, bone, acrylics, etc.).

Jim, I’m presuming that is what you did on that woven graphite grip. I can see the core/arbor and what looks like cork over that then the graphite. Are these arbors something new or have I just not been looking in the right places?