considering the ring are "lubed" with the epoxy . . . They don't slip any when under clamp pressure? I see the mandrel supported in the V-blocks, what's supporting the drill? Are you simply holding it or is it in some sort of "fixture"?
considering the ring are "lubed" with the epoxy . . . They don't slip any when under clamp pressure? I see the mandrel supported in the V-blocks, what's supporting the drill? Are you simply holding it or is it in some sort of "fixture"?
This is like most other things. Steve's way works for Steve, but may not for you or me. We all have ways that work well for us. That doesn't make any of the ideas wrong.
I do it similar to Steve, but not quite the same.
My glue clamp is the same. If you have even pressure on both sides, you can remove the mandrel. If not, those "lubed" pieces will slide.
I don't use epoxy. The kind of adhesive you use is pretty much a personal preference. I use Titebond III, which is a waterproof glue and water based. I glue up on the mandrel and clamp it up, leaving the mandrel in place.
Once things are dry, I chuck it up and turn it. When the turning and sanding are finished, I just grip the grip and the mandrel breaks loose and I can just pull it off the spinning mandrel. Chances are pretty good that by that time, I will have broken the glue loose anyway by putting too much friction with the sandpaper, rasp, or whatever tool I used to rough it in. The mandrel comes out nice and clean and I ream the grip like I would a pre-fab.
Yes, the drill will need to be supported somehow. The mandrel needs to be supported at both ends while you are turning.
About the time you think you need to take just a little bit more off, STOP. The finish sanding will take you the rest of the way. You can always make it a bit smaller, but it is tough to make it any bigger once you have made it too small.
Kevin
Be careful how you live. You may be the only Bible some person ever reads.
I don't slide the mandrel(section of rod I use for glueing) out untill I have both sides tightened evenly. As long as you have equal pressure then it won't slide out at all on you. The drill motor itself is just in my hand but the Mandrel is supported by V blocks on each end. You can make a fixture for holding the drill which a lot of guys do. Normally they just make an elongated V block to hold the drill inverted and then strap it down to the block. But since pretty much all the work on the grip is done with one hand I never saw a need for me to make a fixture.Originally Posted by waynep
One reason I don't glue up rings on my mandrel is because I use Two part "Ultimate Gel" for gluing cork rings and that stuff will stick even to bare smooth metal so once it dries there's no pulling the mandrel out when you use that stuff.
Wayne - Like has been mentioned everyone has their own way of doing things. I too worry about the whole thing slipping once a mandrel is removed, although I have no specific instance to recall this happening. I have a separate mandrel that I use just for the glue-up. Just a piece of 5/16" steel round bar from homedepot. If you rub paraffin wax on the mandrel before glue-up you wont get any adhesion. I have an example of this posted on a thread from a few months back..... http://www.flyanglersonline.com/bb/s...ded#post346570
Steve probably makes more rods than all of us combined so I imagine his method is pretty much perfected by now. I'm sure you cant go wrong doing exactly what he has posted in the original post.
Yonks
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