Duck -
That'll work, great idea. A lot of great ideas on this thread.
Duck -
That'll work, great idea. A lot of great ideas on this thread.
Member FFF , TU, MTFF
Ron
Just was at Lowes today and happened to see what is called GearTrack Channel...it is $9.97 for a 4 ft length but each length has 2 "T' tracks built in....it's basically a board...not wood...Originally Posted by FISHN50
Here's a picture...[Lowes does not list it in the website]... the sites that list it online have higher prices...
http://www.thegaragedesigncenter.com...C042PPY-f3.jpg
The height of the T is narrow so one would have to use a flat head bolt and washer....the a peg with a tee nut....should be easy.
As I see it...
20 bucks for an 8 ft board with the tracks already done...
Easy to drill a few center peg holes....you could route the center but you won't find me recommending that.
I think this would be a rather quick and easy...relatively inexpensive route to go....
A Tip
Going to toss this tip in from my old days when I was glass bedding rifles...probably most of you know this but when working with epoxy if you want to mould it to something but want to break that bond when you are through...you use a "releasing agent"....actually a can of vegetable oil works just fine.
I see a use for that if you are going to epoxy in some tee nuts and are worried about getting epoxy in the threads....coat a bolt.... thread it up... and it will release after the epoxy has set.
Overkill
Did I mention that I needed two boards? Well I do... for another location.
Sooooo in going after pegboard I saw the GearTrack mentioned above...couldn't resist ...so I made a board with it.
Here are the three boards I ended up with....maybe the ideas will help some one...easy and inexpensive boards....pegs interchangable...
IMHO the pegboard setup is the easiest to use and very inexpensive...pegboard $3.78 and I had the Lowes do the cutting.
I'll probably remove the pegboard strip on the GearTrack when the holes are drilled.
Storage is not a problem for me so I left the boards at 8 ft...they easily could be cut in sections.
Well the journey is over.....
A couple of comments about making a furling board. One of the frequent topics is timing of the twisting! One can forget counting twists, twisting times pigtailing,etc., if you include a micro switch in the system, and use the proper tension weight for the material you are using.
It has been mathematically demonstrated that there is a point at which maximum twist will be reached.Trying to furl beyond this point will break the material, which only stands to reason. Also, if proper twisting tension (weight) is applied, it will NOT pigtail before reaching this point. Thus, the point that gives maximum twist is that point at which the materials break without pig tailing.
Knowing the tensil strength of the material you are using will enable you to calculate the breaking strength (tensil strength) of your doubled leader, and use this weigh accordingly to the specific material, as Karel has done. If you use a traveling tensioner hook, as apparently ducksterman does, and I do, by setting the extended actuator arm across the tensioner guide track and locking it in place at the end point for the length of your leader, when the tensioner carrier reaches the actuator, it will automatically turn things off; provided that the actuator arm is low enough for the carrier to interact with it.
In my experience, twisting and furling speed does not have a noticeable effect on the end product. I use an old sewing machine motor that is wired to a dimmer switch for a rheostat, and have successfully furled at over 300rpm (actual tachometer measurements). There is a speed at which it can be difficult to maintain control of things (I have an ON/OFF toggle switch to fall back on should the micro switch fail me, and I always keep a finger on this switch and watch the twisting process for untoward happenings. I use this switch to turn everything off after the two legs have been twisted and while moving both legs to the furling hook.)
I need to spend a little time and learn how to post photos her, and as soon as I figure it out, will post photos of my "rig".
aged sage
Last edited by aged_sage; 01-13-2011 at 10:14 PM. Reason: Typo
Frank,
Store your photos in "photobucket"....copy the IMG url under the picture in photobucket...paste that link into the text of your post on FAOL...and it will post the actual picture in the proper size....
I just finished a 4 pc 8' travel board and this is the connection I used to lock the sections togather. It's almost impossible to get a good snug fit so I used thumb tacks (seen in the space between the sections) to tighten it up. The green thumb tacks are to help put the sections togather in proper order. The 3 connections cost about $3.70 each so it is not cheap!
This board will be for sale at the Louisville Fly Fishing show Febuary 26th.
Jack ,am I correct in assuming that is a bottom view?
duckster;
That is the view from the top. Very little problem with catching or snagging.
ducksterman:
I have them in Photobucket! I just can't get them out!! For some reason, Photobucket is not showing the 'options screens' it once did; leaving me stranded high and dry! I have used it before on other boards with absolutely no problems. It seems those days are long gone; like those of the nickle cigar.
aged sage
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