I've read AC's graphite building series and have some ?s

[TyroneFly]

What is the purpose of the winding check?

How does blowing on an air bubble through a straw cause the bubble to be removed from the uncured thread finish?

Are there rods that should be avoided the first time out? I was thinking about building a 4pc 3wt.

Where can I find scrap pieces to learn on before attempting the real thing?

Is finding the spine on a blank as easy as AC makes it out to be or is it a lot harder than it sounds?

Is there a sure fire aligning technique to ensure the reel seat assemble and guides all line up? I fear my first creation could end up looking like a barber pole.

[estill]

I don't post around here that much, nd I am a beginner at rod building. I have two completed. They aren't much to look at but they cast just as nice as my store bought ones.

My take on the winding check it that it's there to make thing look pretty. After reeming the grip, the top end doesn't look all that great. The winding check hides the rough edge. I'm sure it serves a more important purpose, like keeping stuff from sliding up and under the grip.

Blowing on the un-cured finish will cause the trapped air bubbles to rise up and pop. The bubbles won't escape on their own.

I'm not qualified to tell you what to avoid. I went with the complete kits from Hook and Hackle, and I was happy with the results.

As for practising, I didn't. I had to pull off a couple of wraps that didn't look right. The thread finish was the only tricky part for me. Since I only had a limited supply of finish, I just took my time to get it to layout nicely the first time.

Finding the spine is simple. I'm sure I didn't hit it perfect on my first rod, but I can't tell the difference between casting it and one a bought.

As for lining everything up, you have to glue on the reel seat and grip first. The guides will move a little underneath the thread wraps. I place the guides as best I can then lined them all up after I finished wrapping them.

I now have two rods under my belt. The first one isn't perfect. The second one looks pretty good. And I am starting a third one right now. The warning not listed in the tutorial is how addictive this can become.

[rodbuilder]

1. winding check- it is a decoration that hides the end of the grip around the blank. It also give you a level place to start winding thread that is not up against the grip.

2.blowing on bubble- I can't explain the physics but it does work. I guess it thins the finish enough at that location to let the trapped bubble escape. The finish then flows back together.

3. Instead of a 4 pc. rod for your first attempt I would advise using a 2 pc. rod. Much easier to build.

4. scrap for practice- check out yard sales for old junk rods. Great to learn with and sometimes by stripping back to the blank you can rebuild into a decent rod again. Usually the blank is not hurt.

5. spline location- I always wrap a piece of masking tape around the large end of the blank when I'm checking for the spline. Then when the same side keeps popping up I put a pencil mark on the tape. This way I know where the spline is at and I can set my guides accordingly.

6. The only way of keeping the guides straight on a graphite round blank is by eyeball I usually start at the tip top and work backward and then check all the guides are lined up with it, making any adjustments to individual guides so they all line up. On a bamboo rod it is easy, as you just keep all the guides on the same flat. Use masking tape on one guide foot to hold it in place while you wrap the other foot, then remove the tape and wrap the other foot. On single foot guides use a narrower piece of tape wrapped far forward on the foot until you get your wrap started on the thin end to hold it in place. Remove tape and continue wrapping. By using tape you can move the guides anywhere you want to until they are where you want them. Remember on all rods the spline should be on the top EXCEPT FOR freshwater fly rods and freshwater spinning rods on which the spline should be on the bottom of the blank. But always the spline should be on the top or the bottom, depending on the rod, being built. If you put the spline on the sides the rod will tend to cast off to the side. Also when you are fighting a fish the rod will tend to pull to one side or the other. That is why the spline should be on the top or the bottom. Any other locastion effects the casting accuracy or the fish fighting ability.

[dunfly]

Most of your questions have been answered, but I have a couple of observations.

First, once you spine the rod, sight down the rod to make sure it is straight. A lot of blanks will have a slight curvature in them that may or may not match up to the spine. If that is the case, make sure you place the guides on the curve and forget the spine. The curve should be aligned with the casting plane.

You can practice your wrapping on the blank itself. You can always cut off wraps you don't like. What you need to practice is applying the epoxy. If you goof up here, its hard to correct. You can practice on any round rod, it doesn't have to be a blank. It can be a wood dowel for that matter.

I disagree that a 2 piece rod is easier to wrap than a 4 piece. I think a 4 piece is easier. Just remember to connect the adjoining pieces together when you do you ferrule wraps.

Also check out http://www.rodbuilding.org

Lots of good info from people that do it for a living.

[TyroneFly]

Thanks for the responses.

Should I use the less sticky residue type of tape like the blue painters tape for temporarily holding down the guides for wrapping?

[rodbuilder]

You can use either type masking tape. When I said the 2 pc would be easier for a FIRST
ROD, I was referring to the fact that there are less ferrules to contend with and less chances to goof up.

[TyroneFly]

Thanks Rodbuilder. I was thinking the same thing thereby prompting me to question going multi piece for a first build.

[Jack Hise]

The number of pieces may depend on the space available. It is going to be a 9' rod? Swinging 50" blanks can be difficult. I found this out the hard way!!
Another advantage to 4 piece rods is that there is normally nothing but the hook keeper on the butt section so you can fit and epoxy the real seat and grip then set it in a verticle position to cure while you wrap the guides.
You'll need a tapered reamer for the cork grip. I made mine out of an old rod section and 3M non skid stair tread adhesive backed strips. Cut a 1/4" strip and spiral it down the old rod section leaving a gap to hold the cork dust. Go easy on this step checking for fit often so as not to go oversize.
A well lighted clean work area with little traffic is a must (It's hard to get cat hair out of the epoxy!!)! I installed a 4' shop light over my bench.
If you are going to use the "Notched Card Board Box" for a rod drier use an egg/cooking timer to alert you that it is time to turn the rod.
Solo 2oz cups are great for mixing epoxies, you can pick up a handfull at many fast food places.
Don't mix the epoxies with wood. Get some small knitting needles.
Most kits do not include cork sealer.
Somewhere in the archives are the instructions for making a thread tensioner out of a Mouse Trap, it works!
To clean up uncured epoxy use vinagar!

[LouT]

When locating the spine, do it on a very smooth, flat surface such as Formica or glass.

[TyroneFly]

These responses are great! Thanks!

Jack,

Are you saying to use vinegar in place of acetone?