Anyone use the C&F bobbin yet?
~Mark~
“You cannot step into the same river twice for new waters are ever flowing upon you.”
Heraclitus
Anyone use the S&M Bobbin? It came highly recommended by A.K. Best (at a flytying show here, and in his book “Production Fly Tying”), but I cannot for the life of me get the tension adjusted correctly. Anyone have any tips?
JB
John, I have 3 of them and all I can say is keep trying and you will get them adjusted.
Rich, I am talking of a off center weight wobble when the bobbin is spun to twist/untwist the thread when the bobbin is hanging. I bet that is Hans’ wobble too but I’ll let him speak to that. In any case a slight off center “wobble” is tollerable.
of bobbins on the bench which are actually used = 3 Nor Bobbins. Uaually one loaded with white and two black.
Happy Trails!
Ronn
Marryat ruby tip bobbin is my favorite- very well balanced, also like the Timeco and Griffin ceramic, but not as sweet as the Marryat.
Rich,
The spring mechanism and housing on the Ekich are on one side of the spool only. The wobble I referred to is slight, does not seriously hinder the spinning operation, but this bobbin holder is not symetrical in the way, say, a Mattarelli bobbin holder is.
The advantages of the Ekich lie on other areas, and it is very good at them.
Cheers.
Hans W
=== You have a friend in Low Places ===
http://www.danica.com/flytier
i agree with the nor vise choice. once you use this automatic bobbin, you will never go back to a traditional one!
Ronn,
“# of bobbins on the bench which are actually used”
pretty much what I was getting at…
I must have 30 bobbins around here. I have used many of them over the years. I used the old red plastic ones for many years and ones made by Herters to. I still have several of the Matarelli’s around here. But they get a grove in them after you tie with them awhile.
When Tiemco came out with there ceramic bobbins I bought a dozen of them and still have all of them but one. That one turned up missing at a show I did many years ago. I have one of them that is getting rough around the mouth but I do not know if they will take it back or not as the company has sold?
I have to say when I get use to something I just stay with it. They get to be like old friends when you use them as much as I do.
I also have a Nor Bobbin that I have to send in and get fixed. I have not learned to use it yet but plan on trying to see how it works? The arms are lose in there sockets. I also have a Nor vise that I like for spinning things like streamer bodys and such. Good vise. Ron
We too are advocates of the Nor products. Some of you may be “aging” yourselves with your price quotes though. I think Norm is getting $50 now for the bobbin and three spools.
If you do not use a Nor-vise, that other auto might be a good choice. The NAB is easily filled with the vise and the other one uses the regular spools.
An auto bobbin is a “cannot do without” after you become accustomed to one. 
…lee s.
Hi Lee,
The bobbin alone is still $35 With three extra spools and a spool arbor is $50. Either way, a bargain in today’s world.
Happy Trails!
Ronn
Ronn- I was just on the Nor site looking for the address to send in my broken bobbin and the abor for the spools was $10.00? At least that it what it said on there site? Ron
Ron, it’s $10 if you buy it alone. $50 gets 1 bobbin, 3 spools, 1 arbor for a savings of $5 if bought separately. I recommend a tyer who has none of these items to buy the kit and if he/she wants more bobbins to get them at $35 each. 3 spools are also $10.
Don’t mean to turn this into a commercial.
Happy Trails!
Ronn
If you are using a ceramic bobbin, does this prevent you from cutted wires?
I’m using metal bobbins, I don’t know the brand name, but some of them are cutting the wire very easily.
When I use wire or lead in a bobbin, I use a flaired metal bobbin. These are made to prevent a sharp angle on the wire as it revolves around the tube. Or more often than not, I just snip off enough wire for the fly and not bother with a bobbin.
Happy Trails!
Ronn
RE: Frayed Wire (thread) & Bobbins:
Friction, heat and mechanical abraision are causative factors in the fraying and breaking of fibers in bobbins.
Metal bobbin tubes will eventually notch and groove; therfore causing fraying of the thread. Many tyers choose ceramic tube bobbins because of the ceramic being harder and less prone to notching.
Another culpret is heat build-up at the point of contact with the thread and the end/edge of the tube while wrappping under tension. Some fibers are fairly sensitive to thermal degradataion-thin threads moreso and GSP’s especially. That said-some feel that a highly polished steel tube will provide a better heat sink; therefore preserving the integrity of the thread better than does ceramic. Why? Because the heat is not dissipated in the ceramic as it is an insulative material.
I think the above train of thought is valid. The key to a great bobbin tube may be good steel which is highly polished and perhaps even hard coated.
Rich
Ronn- Sorry about that I just misunderstood you. Ron
I’ve been tying with a Wasatch wood boddin for about a year now and really like it. Just feels good my hand.
Tiemco is my favorite, however anything ceramic works.
I have several cheaper models that cut thread. I use them for spinning button hole thread for midges.
As far as JCs recomendation, Sorry, but, this isn’t quite surgery.
Hans --I know you acquired a nor bobbin (I wouldn,t use anything else unless someone gave me one to test and comment on ; ) so Hans have you used yours?
B.C.Nick