OK, here’s the deal. I remember when I used to build flintlock gun stocks, I used boiled linseed oil to hand rub the stocks instead of just linseed oil. Now I’m working on a bamboo fly rod made from unknown makers. I have the sections stripped down to the wood and I want to finish it the best I can. I’m planning on using spar varnish, but I’m not sure how. My two questions follow;
Is there a special spar varnish to use, i.e. boiled or not?
Can I hand rub the blank with spar varnish 5 or 6 times and accomplish the same thing as dipping the rod fewer times?
Help me out here if you can. I don’t want to waste another rod in a learning curve.
Thanks Ahead,
By visiting the chat room on thursday nites and “watching” the conversation (Kusse, Channer, Harry Boyd et al) I picked up the name “Last and Last” as the preferred brand of varnish for boo rods. I think a dipping process is called for.
LO…you can brush or hand rub it on as well. The dip tank is the preferred method, but the other ways will work, just have to try for the smoothest finish possible…Ed
Joe, what I would recommend for a first project would be be “Formsby’s Tung Oil Finish” (glossy). It is a tung oil spar varnish in a rub on formulation. It goes on really thin so it may take 6 to 10 coats to get a good build up. Just follow the directions on the can.
The other favorite brand among many cane builders is Ace Hardware brand spar in the green label can(I think red label is poly) . There was just a lengthy discussion on the bamboo forum about varnishing with a turkey baster. Check out the video on youtube. search “Hows that made, bamboo rods”. They show the guys at Thomas and Thomas using a baster.
You do have to thin the varnish but then again that is what Formbys is so you could make your own.
I’m pretty sure I saw the Formsby’s tung oil at Lowes in my area.
As someone who’s getting ready to finish his first bamboo rod, I’ve decided on Ace Hardware spar varnish. It’s local, seems to be getting good reviews on the boards I’ve visited and varnish seems to be the “traditional” choice. I would’ve ordered something mail order but shipping costs were prohibitive.
I plan on using the baster approach (not enough headroom to do a dip tube) and plan on building a simple “rod drying room” out of scrap lumber strips, polyethylene sheeting and a 60watt lightbulb for warmth.
Not to hijack this thread but from what I’ve read regarding varnish, most people cut it when they apply it to the rod; anywhere between 20%-50%. I’ve got both naphtha and mineral spirits. Is there any recommendation as to which one to use? Or is there something better?
Hi Steve; There are probably as many ways to put finish on a rod as their are rod makers. Whether you brush, wipe, dip, drain, pour, or spray, good results depends on knowing how your particular varnish behaves. The best way to find out is practice with some inexpensive 1/4" wood dowels. Try what ever method you pick on the dowels before making a mess on the blank.
As for thinner, I would use the best grade of pure turpentine I could get. I have had problems with mineral spirits and paint thinners making the varnish gummy pretty quickly. The generic name mineral spirits covers a lot of ground and could contain all kinds of stuff.
I didn’t have to finish the blank on the bamboo rod that I built last winter, but on the wraps I used Ace Hardware Brand Spar Varnish based on the recommendations of a good number of rod builders on a couple different websites devoted to bamboo rods, thinned about 25% with Sunnyside Brand pure gum spirits turpentine. Sunnyside was available at the local Ace Hardware store.
I am quite pleased with the finish on the wraps. Seems likely you would get the same quality of finish on the blank.
Minwax, Clear Gloss, Wipe-On, Oil Based Polyurethane.
Final Decision ( I hope Meredith approves )
We’ll have to see how it turns out. The first coat went on about 30 minutes ago and it already looks great. About 9 more coats and it’ll be ready for wraps.
Wish me luck.
The blank looks great. I’m excited about continuing with this stick. Here is a link to the reel seat I ordered today. It should look great with the color of the blank and the tan & chestnut color of the wraps. http://www.anglersworkshop.com/items.aspx?catid=2623
On the wraps, many finishes will work fine. Use something “thin” to start. Easier to put several coats on than it is to remove a coat. Good luck and send me a photo.
Well, the reel seat showed up today. I ordered the polished aluminum hardware, but they sent the black. To be honest with you all, I was seriously considering the black stuff. The only things I’ll have to change are the guides from chrome to black, and the wraps from Tan/Chestnut to Chestnut/Black. I think it’ll be great. The wood insert is still unpolished teak, and that’s great with me. Here’s a couple of pics;
Now all I need are black guides, black hook keeper & black winding check.
