:?: I know that most say to anchor from the bow. I need some ideas on a system that will anchor from the bow but can be operated from the center or rear seat of my canoe. I thought about putting a pully on the bow but I don’t want the anchor banging into the hull of my canoe. What should I do?
I’m installing a system like this [url=http://www.kayakfishingstuff.com/articles_view.asp?Kayak_Articles=54:b6d77]anchor system[/url:b6d77] on my kayak. Basically it’s a loop of rope from bow to stern, just above the water line.
You put the anchor through a carbiner and move the contact point to the bow or stern, then secure the anchor line on a cleat by where you sit.
Hextall,
That is a really neat system. Thank you.
its probably not the best system but I only small pond fish from a canoe and dont have current to worry about just wind. I have a large metal Nut attatched to about 50’ of rope, I drop the nut over the side and sit on the rope once it hits the bottom. :oops:
I have thought about extending the bow with a 2X3 about 18 inches long and putting a pully system in to run the rope back to the stern seat. My coleman is such that I could do this with wing nuts and only take a couple of minutes to put it on and take it off.
Keepin it simple
Eric
I use my kayak mainly on small lakes and ponds. The anchor system I use is simply a 24 inch piece of heavy chain that I cut into two pieces; one 18 inches long and the other 6 inches long. I have the 6 in long piece tied to my floating nylon anchor rope and the 18 inch piece clipped to the 6 inch piece with a heavy duty carabiner. That way, if I only want to slow the drift rather than anchor my boat, I unclip the 18 inch chain and the 6 inch piece acts as a drag.
Jim Smith
For an anchor, I use a 3lb ladies barbell weight…works great and doesn’t get hung up on submerged timber/weeds. Line stores easily on the barbell handle.
After years of trying other anchoring techniques, I finally installed an anchor trolley system. Trolleys work great and I wish I had done it sooner. Mine is not as complex, I use D-rings on the fore and aft carrying handles, line is looped to itself with a ring that you can either attach the anchor directly to, or attach the anchor to the yak and run the anchor line through the ring. No pulleys, cleats, or extra drilling.
Here are some other ideas:
http://www.texaskayakfisherman.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1040
http://paddle-fishing.com/fos/rigging/anchortrolley.htm
Good Luck!
I made a bracket that holds an anchor lift n lock off the stern, and use a drag chain for stream fishing. It works great to control your speed while float fishing downstream (slower, put out more rope, faster, pull some up). Cheers.
Thanks for the great ideas. The trolley system will allow me to sit virtually anywhere in the boat. That could be very useful.
I use a trolly system to move a carabiner to the front or back for my anchor. I then have a spring loaded Cam Cleat to slip in the anchor line. It works great if I need a quick release.
jed
Jed,
That is a wise choice for safety. I like it. Thank you.
Eric’
Do a search in the main page search…for Two Anchor System…It’ll bring up Joe Hydes simple and not to costly system…Looking to add a stern anchor to my Outback also!!! and a variation of that system would be awesome…
Of course the trolly might be the way to go for a Kayak… I’m just not at all fond of the idea of drilling holes in my yak… :shock:
Eric,
It was a lesson that I learned the hard… no make that the wet way 
jed
Have two canoes … well, of sorts … the first one is my 16’ Cheeman that I use on placid waters. Then a 12’ Radisson (aluminum) transom model that I call a canoe boat (front end is a canoe and stern end is a transom just like a boat … not a “square stern” canoe), and this is my “blunderbuss” - the utility canoe that I’ll use in more harsh conditions, where I won’t go ballistic should it encounter another dent or get marred in some way. But I use two different methods of anchoring
With the Cheeman, keep a painter (line) at each end of the canoe, tied to the carrying handles and then coiled and lashed to the gunnel, and used to tie off the canoe or just to keep a hold on when out of the boat. For an anchor, have a heavy duty plastic jug with a tight fitting screw-on lid; much like a half gallon plastic milk jug only much heavier. Here I’ll tie on this jug anchor to one of the painters, which then becomes an anchor line. Filled this jug up with play sand, which I swiped for the grand kids sand box when they were not looking! Anyway, this type anchor is real easy going on the canoe’s finish and works well for the water the boat is launched in.
Dale
For my 12’ Radisson transom canoe …
www.bwmarineproducts.com/canoes.htm
I use a small, folding 4-pronged aluminum anchor that I bought from Cabelas and does a pretty good job of anchoring in moving water. Should I decide to do a down river run and want to drag something to slow down a bit, I use an old timey window weight that has about 2/3 of it cut off. The weight is attached to maybe 18" of chain and then the chain is attached to a nylon anchor rope. The very front leading edge of the bow of the Radisson has a anchor line hole where the anchor line, which is about 30 ', is attached. About half way down the anchor line I tie a simple over-hand loop and there attach another line (parachute cord) which is tied off on the rear thwart. When I want to pull anchor, pull in the parachure cord to the anchor line and then bring in the anchor and keep it aft by me.
Dale
I use Joe’s two anchor system. It was relatively cheap. The actual anchors are nylon bags with lead shot in them. They are quiet and can not ding up the ends of the canoe. The only time I have ever accidently flipped a canoe on flat water was using an anchor over the side. Keep it at the ends. The two anchor system holds the canoe in place so you do not swing around in circles when the wind blows. It takes a second to lift and set the second anchor, but it provides a more stable fishing position.
David
I have precisely the anchor trolley described in Hextall’s post, except that mine goes from midships to stern. I live about 4 miles from the KayakFishingStuff store so I’m very familar with their recommendations. However, I only use the anchor trolley deploy a drift sock.
I’ve discovered that when I’m trolling and there’s a wind to my back, that it’s a good idea to deploy the drift sock when I get a hit. I keep it just behind my seat.
I pretty much use this system http://www.anglersafloat.co.uk/Prowler_ … rolley.htm
although I did not bother with the cleats and used a thinner line to connect to the wrong end of the anchor to pull it out of snags. The system also works a peach for deploying and controlling drogues.
I use a super simple system. It takes a little longer to set up so it is not for sight fishing. All I have is a foldable anchor and rope that I attach to a carabeaner(hope I spelled that right). I decide where to put the anchor (bow or stern) based on the wind and desired casting postion. Let out the anchor in the back or front and when it hit bottom clip on a clip to that location. After that all you have to do is tie a knot in the rope and clip it on. This is the most field expedient way I have found to attach it, but when done you have to readjust the rope length at the next station. I use this method because I can’t rig a mounted version on my inflatable. By attaching it at the bow or stern I am able to use the wind to line me up to cast. Once I come up with a better method I’ll try to post it.
Sarge.
Hey All,
I came accross a method for devising a break away anchor system to prevent the possiblity of being stuck in an undisirable situtation. The system was simple. If you have a folding anchor, turn it upside down and attach the rope to the bottom portion of the anchor(by the forks) with a zip-tie. This does two things 1. The anchor is in a better position to grab the bottom. 2. If you need to pull up an anchor that is stuck, all you have to do is pull hard enough to break the zip-tie to get more slack in the rope at the site of attachment. I personally haven’t used this method, but it might be helpful for river or saltwater fishers.
Sarge.
I’m using the Granite & Composite Co. anchor system - only failure comes from the anchor coming off the rope - and that’s no huge environmental concern.
When FFing, I’ll use a drogue chute - maybe 2 off both ends. I’ve only anchored once to work an area in wind, and the front end rock did it’s job.
One of these years I might upgrade … once the kids get jobs, move out, house is paid off, wife’s house renovations are done … say - oh… 20 yrs or so. Got to keep the focus on keeping the line in the water first … for now …