I have been in debate with a gentleman that takes a piece of mono, folds it in half then twists it. He claims, according to the dictionary on line, this is furled.
I see in the definition it states a rolled sail, but I also found a description of rolled and folded, which is more the way several of us make furled leaders.
So, what say you?
I make my leaders the same way as you described and I think its easier to refer to them as Furled leaders. I know that technically they are not, but the name “Furled Leader” is more common place than “Twisted” or “Rolled Leader”.
so how do you taper?
I don’t know if you remember the ones I did for the swap but there is a knot in the middle of the leader. The twisting starts with 1 strand folded in half and then knotted at the end, then I fold the top two thirds and spin them together and tie a surgeons where they end. This gives you four strands, the knot, and then two strands with a loop at each end. Sorry if the description is confusing. I know my dad has a tutorial, Ill see if he still has it.
Not at all, I understand totally. So are you twisting the two then folding it over and twisting the four? Cause that is basically the same thing as what I do except I might do a 7-5-3 (14-12-10-8-6) taper with my board.
Exactly the only downside I see is that mine have the knot. I loved the leader I got from you by the way, though it had a bit of bad luck on the Henry’s Fork last week. I wrapped it around a boulder out in the middle of the river and had to break it off.
What a way to go…
You know I always got you covered, just a pm away, or I will see you at the IF show.
The twisted leader as you have described it produces only a two step taper and ends with a knot in the center. They have developed quite a following here in northern Calif for stripers and salt water fishing but they are not the same as the furled leaders that are constructed by a different procedure and can have multiple steps in their tapers.
The twisted leaders are relatively easy to make and require no tools or jigs.
I have experimented with combining the two methods by first furling the single strand to produce the first step of the twisted leader and the hand twisting the second step. The result is a much tighter, uniform leader than obtained by twisting alone. You do need to pay attention as to which direction you do the hand twisting of the furled section because one direction works much better than the other. The other advantage of the combination leaders is that you can use multiple strand to make the first step if you choose.
Overall I still think the furled leaders are superior to the plane twisted ones.
Jim Cramer
A 7-5-3 loop sequence is impossible to create.
Either the thread loop wraps are started on the inside post, or the outside posts. So they are either full loops or half loops, the middle loop is always a half loop.
So you can have a7?-5?-3? loop sequence, or 7?-5?-3 loop sequence, or 7-5?-? loop sequence, or 7-5?-3 loop sequence.
It make a big difference in the balance of the taper and performance of the furled leader.
You can even calculate the wieght of your finished furled leader.
Denier is the weight in grams, of 9000 meters of thread. So if you know the denier of your thread (3/0 =210 denier, 6/0 =140 denier, 8/0 =70 denier), and you know the tolal length of both loop sequence runs, you can calculate the weight of your finished furled leader.
Using a modified formula of David Ulmer’s “Big Leader Formula” for knotted leaders, I can calculate the peg positions for just about any loop sequence and length for any furled tapered leader.
The taper is constant, the reduction of weight per segment is uniform, and the finished length is accurate to less than a inch difference.
7?/5?/3? loop sequence
P1 = 100% or 1.0000
P2 = 1.0000 x 0.55 x 30/26 = 0.6346
P3 = 0.6346 x 0.55 x 26/22 = 0.4125
P4 = 0.4125 x 0.55 x 22/18 = 0.2773
P5 = 0.2773 x 0.55 x 18/14 = 0.1961
Total of the segments percentages = 2.5208
So 1.0000/2.5208 = L1/99 inches (90 inch + 9 inch for shrinkage during furling process)
so L1 = 1.000 x 99 inch/2.5208 = 39.2732 inch
(Left & Right Pegs 0 inch)
L1 = 39.2732 inch ( Left Peg 39 inch)
L2 = 0.6349 x 39.2732inch = 24.9346 inch (Right Peg 64inch)
L3 = 0.4125 x 39.2732 inch = 16.2002 inch (Left Peg 80 inch)
L4 = 0.2773 x 39.2732 inch = 10.8905 inch (Right Peg 91 inch)
L5 = 0.1961 x 39.2732 inch = 7.7015 inch (Left and Right Pegs 99 inch)
Reduce each run length by 9 inches, then combine the loop end at the butt end over a single, then loop both tag ends through a hook connected to a heavy weight and hang to allow the weight tag end loops to unwind, creating the furling process. Using AC glue secure both furled ends (leaving a small loop) for creating the finished loop construction using a knit picker!
I normally dip my furled leaders in varnish to seal all the thread strands and to bond them together (also gives the furled leader some stiffness that helps transmit the energy transfer of the cast).
Before the varnish on the surface become hard, I wipe down the furled leader with a clean cloth dampened with some varnish to smooth and seal any openings in the furled leader.
Parnelli
I am not sure what you said, but when making them I admit the LOOP on the first & last does make it actually 8, but basically, I wrap around the 2nd peg three times meaning 6 threads…the 7th goes to the next peg which is 2 wraps and so on. Like I said, minus the loop at front and end…7 threads, 5 threads, and three…which when put together is 14 threads and with staggered pegs 12 threads, 10 threads and so on down to six thread on the end.
how about a “singapore leader”
I do furled leaders the way Kathy Scott taught me on her DVD. Anything else is something else. Could be wrong though. That happens often.
I always thought a single strand twisted leaders was called a Singapore leader also & a Furled leader was more of a multi strand leader. The Singapore leader’s I have made in the past were only out of monofiliment but the Furled leaders I can make out of thread etc. Also on a Furled leader you have more control over the taper & you can adjust it for various types of Fishing. As a person who has tried them both I think the Furled leader is definitely better.
maybe “twined leader” would be better
Man that looks like it would work, both for fishing and making art work. :lol:
I just made up a couple of these for the neighbor kid to use as leaders. I built mine with 8 pound test Ande. I had a 1/4 pound spool of this stuff for the 4 piece section is 4X8 or close to a 30 pound butt section. Was easy to do and I already had the material.
http://www.flatslander.com/leaderarticle.html
Simple quick and they roll over just fine.
Rick
Now try thread…
I’ve watched Kathy Scott for a couple of years build them with a jig on a board with an electric screw driver. Seems too complicated for this guy. The simple twisted leaders are great because I can make them without investment in tool and a jig. She even sells a DVD on how to make the jig and how to build the leaders but I would rather just buy tapered leaders for myself. I bought about 4 doz Rio Mainstream tapered leaders for less than 50 cents each last year, so I have a FEW leaders to use.
Bottom line for me, the twisted leader are not so complicated to build but are very simplistic and that’s my speed.
But it sounds like there is a difference…One is Twisted…the other is Furled
I think that you are right that there is a difference. One is a simple furled leader and the other is much more involved. I’ve seen them called Singapore leaders. http://www.ukswff.co.uk/