Having no experience at fishing a lake for trout I have questions.
The orange float has all the appearance of a “bobber” and yet I know that this cant be. What is it and how does it work in this application?
Also , what is the reason for the 30’ of leader ?
I frequently use a bit of a longer leader because of clarity issues and the sensitivety of the fish . Is that it? Also , were you surface , in the film or sub-surface fishing. Like I say , dont have any experience with that sort fo fishing.
Dandy trout you got there .
Hi FlyGoddess: Nice fish and great photos of the bugs. I tried the pump a few times and got nothing out of the trout. Was I doing something wrong or do you think their stomachs may have been empty? Non fly fishers can never understand how a trout can even see something that small let alone that we can tie flies to imitate them. It’s amazing to see that stuff–what they eat.
Perch,
Joni’s “strike indicator” instructions are on her website. I have used it to play with, but I’ve not been on the boat long enough to play with it in real fishing situation.
To answer these one at a time.
Duckster, no, I do not anchor. I always get tangled:D Just use my flippers to hold my spot and I may drift a little. And I mean a 30’ piece of P-Line Fluorocarbon 6 lb with a loop in the end and loop to loop to my floating line.
I also use a Gamakatsu dropper bead and suspend that so it hangs about a foot up from bottom fly. Bottom fly, one foot from bottom and in this case it was the Irish Spring Chironomid, and the Damsel was two feet off the bottom.
Perch…ummmm okay it is a Styro Suspender…LOL It is a one inch ball with a black peg in the end. You thread both on the 30’ piece of Fluoro or Mono to the length you want. Then pull the peg out, make a loop and put it back in the ball. When a fish hits, it slides. (I did a demo on my blog)
Even Rowley and Chan have switched to this style.
It works better for me than a fast sink line dropped straight down the slow retrieve.
You cant cast this, so it is feed it down between you legs then kick back a ways. You do need to know the depth and a sonar is great but it can be done without. I do put on BB split shot 6" above bottom fly to get to to sink fast.
This is the first time I have had this kind of success using the pump. I fill it full of water, stick it in the fishes mouth and down as far as I need to go. Squeeze water and then it sucks whatever is in there back into the pump. Remove and squeeze into your hand.
I caught a couple that had very little.
Duckster the nymph is my brain child and I kind of want to keep it a secret, cool?
There is no longer a “three” pic limit per post ( I say “three” because since I have been posting pics the limit was actually four ). Recently, the limit of four has been upped some. I saw a post with TEN pics ( I think it was ten ), and I did one shortly thereafter with SEVEN just to see what would happen. Not sure there is even a max any more ??
Regarding the damsel. Why keep a good fly secret ?? Or is the invention something inside the fly ?? Whatever …
This probably isn’t anything like yours judging from what’s in the jaw in the picture of the caught fish but your nymph picture reminded me very much of this fly…which I like to tie with eyes…
Now I’d like your opinion of doing this… played with it a few days ago but no hookups…
A 15’ sink tip …actually Versi tip…type III… could use VI… a 5’ or 7’ furled fluorocarbon leader with the appropiate length of fluorocarbon tippet depending on water depth… make my own slip float so the plastic insert is big enough to slip over all connecting knots…
Joni, great post. Good to see you here again. Here’s a great midge pattern I got from my buddy Buzz, who used it very effectively on Henry’s this year, and I and my son have had some good success with it on my favorite spring creek. It appears this might also be a good imitation of what you pumped.
These were tied by Buzz. Size #12 Dai Riki 125 hook, red scud-back wrapped over burgundy thread, ribbed with silver wire. Head is pheasant-tail pulled back over white ostrich and peacock herl. I think this is one of Chan’s ties, and it really seems to work well.
Ducks, maybe I can help or add to it. Add a BB to your leader about 6" or so up from the fly. Give it time for the fly to sink. Keep it up about a foot from the bottom (it’s a good place to start). Play with the length of the tippet too. Lengthen it up to-----whatever. Just wait for the tick. Set the hook by pulling on the line. Sometimes pulling up on the rod, especially if the fly is deep, won’t set the hook. If you have a sonar/fishfinder, it makes it easier to read the bottom.
I’ve also used a type VII line and 6’ leader pretty much the same way. Cast out the depth of the water, let it sink and do a slow figure 8 retrieve.
Amazingly, these styles of stillwater fishing isn’t like watching paint dry, it can be fast and furious. I’ve caught more fish this way than casting and stripping a streamer or leech pattern.
Ducksterman, You could definitely use the 15’ sink tip, then furl leader, followed by whatever length tippet, but you wouldn’t need the indicator. Just do like Chan use to. Drop it straight down from rod tip and retrieve very slow.
I personally like the floating line and I am seriously considering making the leader 25’ of MONO and then 5’ of fluoro (being that I am a firm believer that fluoro makes a difference) for the money issue plus the environment issue (mono will disintegrate, but fluoro does not).
That way I would have that nice little knot for the Drop bead also.
Alright, the fly! Actually I got the idea from this site. A fly tied with Ostrich.
I found that Ostrich fades in the sun…seriously. So, I use Marabou and that is all.
Recipe:
Scud Hook # 12-14
Thread match color of fly (gray or DARK olive)
Tie in Marabou with tips for tail at the bend of hook. You want the tail about 1/2 to 3/4" long.
Don’t cut off marabou, but twist and wrap up hook to middle. Then repeat.
You can add small olive mono eyes, or chain eyes , but it seriously doesn’t need them.
This wiggles great!