what about $600 reels

I have 2 Teton Tiogas, a Fly Logic Optimum, Orvis Battenkill large arbor & an Orvis Battenkill Barstock. Retail on them runs up to $320.00, I got each reel new & on sale…most I paid for one was $125.00. I have had no problems with them.
If I had an extra $600.00 laying around, I think I would buy a complete outfit, including a “top drawer” line,and it would be a darn nice rig. That’s just me. We all have different wants & needs…the key is each persons’ enjoyment.
Mike


This site’s about sharing!

i have a hardy angel…couldn’t resist the bling bling. honestly like my ross evolution alot more, but it doesn’t get nearly the same amount of looks (the evolution weighs considerably less and drag is is almost as good as the angels). The only thing on the hardy I really like is the drag knob. The machining and overall quality is good too…don’t think it was really worth all I paid for it though.

JC,
An Irishman with ANY Angel?..That’s a recipe for lightning!
Mike


This site’s about sharing!

Only for Saltwater Fly Fishing (like the Tabor or Abel) !!! Would like a custom Hardy on a Split Bamboo Rod Though (just a Christmas present mention to ya Santa) !!!

I have the picture of the Hardy Angel, does that count?

As for reels, it seems to me like you are paying the extra bucks for:

  1. Durability - better finishes for fewere scratches and better materials to resist damage from angler abuse.
  2. Lighter weight - improved materials for lower weight in the reel, this translate into better balance with some of the lighter, usually high-end rods and less fatigue for all day fishing
  3. Corrosion resistance - sealed drags and/or corrosion resistant materials
  4. Improved drag - better drag systems for fighting larger and more powerful fish and smoother drags for protecting light tippet. It also seems to me that the more expensive reels have a wider range of effective drag settings.
  5. Manufacturer - paying a premium for the manufacturers name, customer service, warranty, or the fact that it was manufactured in the US.

I think those are more or less in order of the cost of the reel. I would be interested in hearing what others have to say about that list, I haven’t been at this game all that long. This is my beginners take on reel quality vs cost.

So I generally try figure out what application is going to be. For me, most of my fishing is fresh water for smallish trout, bass, blue gills, carp etc. For them, I have cheap to mid-priced reels because I rarely have to put a fish on the reel. For my first trip into the world of the pirates last April I went for a more expensive reel that was suitable for the purpose. It still was not top-of-the-line as I don’t get to do it very often and I couldn’t justify the expense.

I would like to splurge for a better reel for my most-used 5wt rod. My current reels (mostly Okumas) are sericable by the drag seems to go from little to no resistance to stop a freight train in about 2 clicks.


Fish more, work less!

JC,
I figured that was where you directed your question.
Answer: Which months drawing is it?
Mike


This site’s about sharing!

The most I’ve paid for a reel was $1250. This is a trout reel, however it’s also a “collectible” and hopefully may even increase in value. But I do enjoy fishing it, I love the sound it makes when a fish runs.

I only consider multipliers as true fly reels. But if you want to fish in the same engineering time frame as Dame Juliana Berners that is fine with me. I have a $42 Martin 72 3:1 multiplier with star drag, and a Hardy 1.7:1 multiplier which is a $2500 reel. Now I still want a big game type multiplier, and maybe the Albright 2.2 might fit the bill.