Hi All,
Just bought a toilet bowl wax ring to use for tying, and before I re-invent the wheel
so to speak, what are some of your methods for for reducing its size to a more managable size? Many Thanx
Bill
Get an empty lipstick or chapstick type container. A)Force feed small quantities at a time down the pipe, or B)Using a pair of pliers, take a soup size can and create a ‘v’ shaped notch on the circumference. On the opposite edge make an lip to grip. Place some wax in this container and place the container it in a pot of boiling water. Make sure the flame is low so the water is barely bubbling. When the wax is melted, turn off the flame and carefully pout the wax into the pipe of the container. Allow to dry.
Allan
Is this for dubbing wax??? Never heard or thought of this one…
“I’ve often wondered why it is that so many anglers spend so much money on,and pay so much attention to.the details on the wrong end of the fly line.If they took as much care in selecting or tying their flies as they did in the selection of the reel and rod,They might be able to gain the real extra edge that makes it possible to fool a fish that has,in fact,seen it all before” A.K.Best
“Wish ya great fishing”
billknepp, he’s probably gonna use it for dubbing. I haven’t done it yet, but heard of it…so I got one of the toilet rings for 89 cents at Home Depot. Probably a lifetime supply. Thanks for the tips tieflies.
Plain old Jim, I’m Plain…and I’m old.
one of AK Best’s tips for any dubbing wax is to melt it into a small container and glue it to your desk.
you could use a small glass jar or dish, cut a few pieces of wax from the big ring put it in the container and melt it in the microwave.
Yes, see this week’s “Tying Tips”.
Crot & duckster,
While the general comment, “one of AK Best’s tips for any dubbing wax is to melt it into a small container and glue it to your desk” may be a good overall suggestion, it may be hazardous to your health.
While I’m not a scientist, and hopefully one will chime in, I recall reading that this stuff is highly flammable. If that is true, the suggestions that it can be melted in a microwave or simply melted, without identifying the proper precautions, are irresponsible and can be dangerous.
Allan
[This message has been edited by tyeflies (edited 03 May 2005).]
Thanx for the suggestions I was just trying to avoid “re-inventing the wheel”. Yep it sure looks like more than a lifetime supply.
Bill
Allan,
Caution is a good thing, but this one isn’t too deadly.
It is a wax ring. Melting and pouring it into containers is just like making candles. Millions of kids make candles without extensive safety precautions. Like any hot liquid, it can burn if you pour some on your skin, but not really more dangerous than normal cooking.
Melts around 140 F and flashpoint over 450 F. If you manage to accidentally set it on fire, it will burn like a candle.
Here’s an MSDS for a toilet bowl ring:
[url=http://www.herchem.com/msds/MSDS68_johniring.pdf:5dea7]http://www.herchem.com/msds/MSDS68_johniring.pdf[/url:5dea7]
A few years back, I contacted Marvin Nolte, and he was kind enough to share the following information about “Wax for Fly Tying”. Which ran as a “Tying Tip” article, on FAOL. ~Parnelli
Wax for Fly Tying
By Marvin Nolte
I make many waxes: tying waxes, dubbing waxes, and finger waxes, varying the formulas to fit the tier’s needs. There is a definite difference between dubbing wax and tying wax, and finger wax. Though you can use my tying wax to aid dubbing procedures, it was designed for other uses. Uses for which dubbing wax is not suitable.
Before bobbins, tiers waxed a length of thread then commenced the tying procedure. This waxing prevented the thread from unwinding if tension was released. My tying wax duplicates this old cake wax. I use it when tying in hand, and for certain salmon fly techniques that are facilitated by laying down an adhesive base. Dubbing wax, while apparently tacky, is too soft for these applications
This is tying wax, it is easier to apply if warmed slightly. I keep it in my shirt pocket while tying. Holding it next to your tying lamp for a few seconds will also work. If you want a softer wax you can reduce the Rosin and increase the Castor Oil proportionally. Rosin is what makes this wax work. If you reduce the Rosin, do so judiciously.
Here is the formula for my Tying Wax. The percentages are by weight.
Formula 721C
70% Rosin (ordinary violin bow, pitcher’s mound, rosin)
20% Beeswax
10% Castor Oil
A Dubbing Wax, should you wish to refill an empty tube. The percentages are by weight.
Formula 514C
50% Rosin
10% Beeswax
40% Castor Oil
I make a Finger Wax, that has a small but enthusiastic following. Some folks don’t like to put dubbing wax on their thread but do find dubbing easier if their fingers are a bit sticky. For them I make the following.
Finger Wax
15% Rosin
30% Beeswax
5% Castor Oil
50% Silicone Paste Floatant
This is poured into a small tub. A quick wipe, with the forefinger over the wax, the dubbing is easily and tightly applied to the thread. ~ Marvin
WOW,
That may be more than I ever wanted to know about anything!
Definatly interesting. I too had heard of the toilet bowl wax gig but really have no need for it.
Last nite I borrowed a video that has some dubbing techniques on it. He recommends no wax at all, more so preparation was what he showed. The video is by Dave Wotton, fly tying tools and dubbin techniques. No question there is some neat dubbing techniques.
He mentions (but didnt show) a 6 or 8 loop dubbing loop. That I’d like to see, and really ask why in the world would anyone want to.
If you want to see pictures and how it’s done go to:
[url=http://www.globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/dubbingwax/toilet_ring_wax.html:86c26]http://www.globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/dubbingwax/toilet_ring_wax.html[/url:86c26]
and another article on making your own:
[url=http://www.globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/dubbingwax/:86c26]http://www.globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/dubbingwax/[/url:86c26]
Enjoy
Fatman