Hi all,
When tying with foam, how do you prevent it from spinning, turning on the shank? I lay a base of thread before applying the foam but it still turns. Any suggestions, tips would greatly be appreciated.
Cheers
Gig,
I tie with foam all the time and do two things to prevent twisting. BTW, twisting seems to be more of a problem for me on larger flies; #12, #10, and #8 don’t seem to twist much.
The first thing I do to prevent rotation is to lay a good base of thread on the hook shank and then lay a good base of thread over the first layer of the foam itself. I put down enough thread over that first foam layer so it is hard to see the actual foam itself.
The second thing is a good layer of Zap-A-Gap over the over the thread on the hook shank and a layer over the tied-down portion of foam.
Good luck 8T 
Have you tried this yet when laying the foam down on the thread wraps? Just an idea as I haven’t had this problem. Pretty sure it would work though :D.
I have to agree with 8 thumbs although I just use head cement.
Hi F4T,
On small foam flies head cement will probably be all that you need to hold the foam in place. On large bass flies (#4-#1/0) rotation is a much greater problem and Zap-a-gap will be required to get a good firm, non-rotating hold on the hook shank. Even then, after heavy use and lots of bass, something is likely to come loose and some rotation may start to occur. 8T 
Hi folks,
Thanks for the information. I’m from Australia and have never heard of or seen Zap a gap, what is it? Is it like super glue?
Cheers
Tying with foam is like tying the wing quill’s on a wet fly. You have to hold it in place until you get it tied down enough for the thread to hold it in place. I would suggest wrapping the hook shank with thread then when tying the foam onto the hook hold and pinch it and wrap the thread between your pinched finger’s making sure you are pinching were you want the foam tied in place. Take a few lose wraps then bind it down tightly with say three more wraps of thread.
Just a matter of getting use to using another material. Like I have said before the hardest thing in fly tying is knowing how the thred will react with the material being tied on the hook.
Zap-A-Gap is just another super glue that is sold to fly tiers.
There are several others that work very well at your local store’s. You may have to try a few to find which works in your country. Sorry I do not know what they sell there for super glues. 
Ron
I usually adda good layer of thread, tie in the foam at the back of the hook, then add a drop of super glue, hold down the foam and tie in as needed by the pattern. This works well for me.
Jim Smith
Hi,
Will take all information onboard, thankyou very much for your time and help. I greatly appreciate it.
Cheers
Gig
a layer of thread over hook shank and then firm wraps over foam has worked well for me, didnt need to use any cement / glue… with bigger hooks its better to use thicker thread in order to avoid cutting foam /it also allows you to make stronger wraps without breaking thread/…
Yet I have to mention my foam beetles are down to size 6… (with the tackle I use this is the biggest I can cast…)
no problem at all with smaller flies /up to size 18/…
cheers
Yes zap-a-gap is a type of super glue.
Also make the first two wraps onf tharead on the foam fairly loose to get it in place and then make tighter wraps.
Rick
Hi Gig. Zap-A-Gap is brand name of a cyanoacyrilic (sp?) glue. It is used extensively by model airplane builders, so you could probably find something equivalent in a hobby shop, or hit a crafts store and they will usually have something in the dollhouse or another section for working with those types of materials. Read the label on a local brand as I remember some cyanos would melt some types of foam! LOL As others have said plain old head cement will work, but usually after a number of fish (a good thing!) the fly will loosen up a little. I think the key is a good base of thread so the cement has something to soak in before you lay down the foam. Good luck and experiment. Foam flys are really dynamite this time of the year in the eastern US.
Good Fishing!
Bob
- You can also cut a 1/8 in strip of foam tie it in at the back of the hook and wrap it forward over a zaped thread base. Tie it off at the eye and it becomes the foundation for the the rest of the foam . This works great. This idea comes from Charlies fly box Charlie Boy Hopper.
The comercial foam bluegill bugs are tied on kinked popper hooks and they seem to hold up pretty well also
Forgot about Charlie Cravens CB Hopper. He does give a great set of tying instructions and some good foam tips, and I think his hopper is one of the best proportioned and prettiest foam hoppers available to the tyer. It is a real beauty.
Bob
Don’t forget to buy accelerator when you buy your superglue…it makes it set instantly, and is great for when your thin superglue is wicking into your materials, especially deer and elk hair. Stops it instantly. I get mine at the hobby store, model airplanes section. DAN
I tie a lot of foam hoppers. I don’t use glue (too lazy). It doesn’t really bother me too much when they spin on the shank. After a few fish, I just twist the body back on top, no big deal. Beats chasing down and catching the real ones and threading them on the hook!