I have been playing around with my Tie-Fast Tyer. Using it to tie on flies as per the instructions.
I was wondering if anyone had ever tested this knot for strength ?? Sure looks better than a clinch knot or improved clinch knot as the tag is buried by the wraps. Unlike the clinch which is only held by one turn of the knot. According to the instructions, the greater the tension applied the tighter the grip on the tag. I also like the way the tag exits the knot going down the line and not out the side.
I’ve never conducted an official test, but have used the tool many times. Never had the knot fail…
I always show an interest in these knot type threads. I have watched with great interest Knot Wars here: http://www.fishingclub.com/ExtraContent/ExtraContentHome.aspx
Knots are more than which one is the strongest. For me I have to tie it in dim light, with very cold hands too. Just because I can do it at the tying desk doesn’t mean I can do it fast while the fish are feeding right infront of me at 11 pm and and cold. I really thought about using the nail knot to nail knot instead of a blood knot, but it is so hard to stop using a double surgeons when it is so fast and easy and is good nuff.
Where would one find information on this Tie-Fast Gryp-Knot? Sounds interesting
Here is a nice video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgdQb958d28
interesting…Personally, I just don’t like carrying extra stuff around. I have been using uni-knots (similar, but not quite the same) for a lot of my fly tying applications. never had one of those fail & they are really quick and easy to tie with cold wet fingers.
If you carry clippers, you can get a much smaller version that combines a tye-fast tool, clippers and file.
While the tie-fast is a life saver for the knail knot, I take a pass on othe other knots. Because you’re pulling the tag end, rather than the standing end, the tie-fast knots use too much tippet.
Steven…
Actually you don?t use up much of the tag at all. Maybe three inches.
You pull the tag off the tool and then the knot slides down to the eye of the hook.
I would consider that using up the tag end is of no consequence anyway. Tippet material is relatively cheap and expendable. And tippets are easily attached now-a-days with a three turn surgeon?s knot.
DickM.
I don’t know. I like to get a decent grip and twist the tag end around my finger.
Anyway, even if it’s three inches, that’s about 2 1/2" more than doing an Orvis Knot (my favorite) or a clinch.
Rather than the Gryp knot, I’ve been more intrigued with the double nail knot to connect sections. Generally, I now use blood knots forthe thicker sections, and the Orvis tippet knot for the thinner sections.
Steven …
Let see: A spool of Orvis Mirage Fluorocarbon tippet material goes for $9.95 for a 40 meter spool of material from 7X-0X.
That?s about 120 feet or 1440 inches.
Say you make your tippets 24" long, you will be able to make 60 tippets.
That comes to $0.166 pet tippet change.
But remember that you will be able to tie on at least 2 or 3 fly changes on each tippet. So, you can cut that figure in half at least.
I think we can afford that.
DickM.
What the heck… this maybe sacrilegious, but I do not buy tippet material in those Orivs or any other flyfishing sellers spools. I get it in 110yd spools from Berkley ie vanish Fluorocarbon, 4lb, 6lb, 8lb - for get ready for this, $5CDN… I just can’t justify paying the extra cost, I have my reasons but just can’t do it!!!
Love my Tie-Fast Gryp-knot tool, I use it for putting loops in my Fly line if they do not come with…
I’ve never used it to tie on a fly but I do use the line to line connection with the tie fast tool and it works great. The clinch knot at the hook will always break before the tippet to leader connection knot does.
I may have to give it a try to tie flies to the leaders and see how it works. I’m just lazy and can tie a clinch knot in my sleep.
Jeff
The best way to test this knot or any other is to take a piece of tippet and tie it to a hook then tie another hook on the other end using a different knot. Clamp one of the hooks in a machinist vise and grab the other hook w/ a pliers and slowly apply pressure until one of the knots fail. Try several reps and you will soon know which of the knots is stronger.
You’re kidding me right? It’s not about money, it’s about waste.
I’ve done this with several knots and quite honestly it is kind of fun. One thing I found is a regular clinch knot isn’t as weak as some claim, and some of the knots that are highly touted are not as strong as claimed (at least when I try to tie then). Which brings to a well tied knot is important.
I also have added a “shock” test by running the test but with a little slack in the line and then snapping the line taught. IT’s interesting to see what happens. Sometimes the knot that was better in a steady pull test fails in a shock test.
Jeff
I agree you should always give all your knots a good tug to test them.
I probably tie over a thousand knots a month. Every once in a while, a knot just plain fails (maybe one or two out of a hundred). I think it has to do with perhaps the fact that wraps occasionally end up crossing, and the crossing wrap cuts into the underlying wrap. Not sure, I just know something happens even though I’m tying the same knots and have had plenty of practice.