Watched many videos, mostly by Hans W. where he splits a thread to create a loop in which to place dubbing. Then he spins the thread to lock in the material prior to wrapping it around the shank. I understand that he uses thread that is fibrous rather then bonded. My question:
Maybe it’s my eyes, but is there a trick to splitting so fine of a thread? I mean, I think he’s using 12/0 thread and I’m having a great deal of difficulty with 6/0! Any suggestions appreciated.
Allan
Allan,
I either run the thread between my index finger/thumbnail to flatten it a bit, or make sure all the twist is out and hang it over a bodkin, then insert a needle. Works fine on thread down to 10/0, 70 denier, etc.
Regards,
Scott
Hareline announced yesterday, that they will be distributing this thread splitter from Stonfo:
http://www.stonfo.it/site/product/635?parent_section_id=4&category_id=187
In case that link…to Italy, causes problemos
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PT/TB
Hi Allan,
First use a sewing machine needle as the splitting needle (easy enough to make). They are designed to go through threads without damaging them.
To split the thread let the twist out then place the index finder nail of your non dominant hand behind the thread and push it toward yourself. Run your finger nail up and down the thread. The thread will start to spread over your nail. With UTC 70 you can have a target of up to 1/8" by doing this. That’s how I do it, and I know is also how Hans does it.
Cheers,
A.
There are times when the flossy nature of UTC 70 drives me crazy, but it’s perfect for this application; MFC 8/0 works great, too, for small flies and Danville 6/0 (another 70 denier thread) is fantastic, as well. I like UTC 140 or Danville flat-wax for plus-sized flies.
Regards,
Scott
I just started to do this. Found that if I spin the bobbin counter clockwise that the thread splits easier fro me.
Hans also put a video link on her about using split thread and how he does it.
For some reason the link will not copy for me. Did on 10-11-13 here in the fly tying archives.
Rick
Hi Allan:
I use Danville 6/0 and spin it counter clock wise to flatten the thread and then use a Sewing needle to split it. Speaking of eye sight, my eyes changesd and I use to use a magnifier on my head if you remeber. Now I just take my glasses off and sit sown and tye flies. Kind of crazy but I see the hook and wraps just fine.
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I’ve been flattening 70 denier threads but maybe the needle wasn’t pointed enough. I’ll try a sewing machine needle and see if it works better. Hey Fontinalis, glad your eyes are getting better with age (:.
Allan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrwqYWp-XfY
go to :56 and see how Hans does it with fingernail and needle
Regards,
Scott
Hans did a video just for this.
[video=youtube_share;S0R5BMlKZ7I]http://youtu.be/S0R5BMlKZ7I?list=UUXl2ZIVFGq9aZ00NbhdnVrA[/video]
Darwin,
I think the concept is well understood. Some have trouble with the practicum.
Please correct me if Im wrong, but I believe this is a very old technique which originated with coarse, UN-waxed thread. In those OLD days, the thread, or more likely, the silk, was quite thick. To form a dubbing loop would be extremely bulky. With today’s #12/#14 threads, not so much.
Anyway, it is a very old method of dubbing and was born of relative necessity…the threads of the day were just very bulky and un-waxed, which lent themselves to splitting the thread and inserting dubbing.
I’m not sure how old the technique is, I first came across it in a series of articles in Fly Fishing and Fly Tying by Davie Wooton in the early 1990s. I learned to tie with the threads you describe Byron. The biggest problem was the build up of bulk from them. Modern threads have lead to a tendency for people to use far more thread than is needed. Splitting the thread means a dubbed section can be formed with one pass of thread. Using a dubbing loop leads to three layers of thread to form the same section.
As for wax, I would rather buy my thread unwaxed, then add wax if and when I need it. I know Uni is available unwaxed, but have you ever tried to get any? No one stocks it. I would give the person who decided that I will use waxed thread, whether I want it or not, a good clout round t’ear hole, if I could find them!
Cheers,
A.
I’ve found that my most obvious problem was with a “dull” needle. I was trying to use a bodkin.
Thanks for the reminder.
The exact sewing machine needle you want is a “Ball point needle” the very tip is rounded to not damage the thread. Go for one with a higher number. (Like hooks they get smaller the higher the number).
I make my own using a Slipstream brass fly tube with the lining removed. Put the needle in the chuck of a drill so the chuck grips the tip end of the larger part of the needle. Set it running and taper the back end with a diamond file, a long slow taper 11 degrees is ideal. Then put the needle into a vice and put the tube over the taper you have created. One firm tap with a mallet and the two are one. I then put silicone tubing over the tube for a larger grip. Or you can pay Marc Petitjean lots of money for the same thing with a stainless steel tube.
Cheers,
A.
Being as lazy as I am, I simply built up layers of UV cement around the eye of a needle to facilitate handling and then colored it black with a waterproof marker so I could easily locate it. It meets my needs.
@ AlanB: Uni thread is waxed or as they call it: bonded but it can still be split. All you need to do is to put some tension on the thread and then rub the thread up and down a few times with something dull, like the metal handle of a needle or the round edge of yr scissors. The heat or friction will break the bonding and the thread will split easily. Give it a try!
Mart
Mart, Have been doing that for years. That isn’t why I don’t want the waxed. I want the choice, I don’t blether wax all over the place when it isn’t needed. Wax has its uses, when needed I’ll add it to the part of the fly that needs it. The rest of the time I’d rather not have it. Years ago Uni was my primary thread, but I changed to UTC for a different reason, I like the vibrancy of the colour, which makes Uni look washed out by comparison.
For a while I had access to Guttermann’s Scala thread on 15000 meter spools. However, the supply was irregular, and some time ago I moves away from the supplier. Since then I’ve not been in a position to put in an order for the kind of quantities I would need to to order it from Guttermann. When I used Scala I realised that the major cost elements in fly tying thread are the spool and putting it on the spool. The standard Scala is finer than Uni 8/0 while being stronger than Uni 6/0. There is a finer version as well. Its spun rather than braided, so splits easily. The range of colours puts fly tying threads to shame. Its available is something like 12000 different shades. If that isn’t enough Guttermann will custom dye it, if you order enough. Compared to buying Uni it costs about 1/25th of the price. And it is unwaxed.
Thinking about the thread splitter from Stonfo, that would work well with Uni with the method you mention. Though I doubt I’ll purchase one. It is a tool to do something I can do with a tool I already have. Keeping the number of tools down is more efficient. Though I am impressed by it as a piece of engineering.
Cheers,
A.