I’d like to get a second line for my 8wt. I want to do some below surface fishing. I don’t know what’s better down to 15’ sink tip or full sink. One person told me teeny line another told me type 2 full sink. Another told me sink tip are hard to detect strikes. Another told me full sink lines are hard to cast so I don’t know. I’d like some help please.
Let’s separate…
Teeny lines are a brand. Everybody makes their version…
This is from Cortland’s website. One of my favorites for giving good explanations of line characteristics.
Eventually all sinking lines reach the same depth. However, the speed in which the line reaches the various depths is often the deciding factor in whether or not fish are being caught.
The following chart gives the sink rate for each type of sinking line. variations within each rate are due to the different line sizes themselves. I.e. a 10 weight type 6 is a bit faster than a 6 weight type 6.
TYPE CHARACTER SINK RATE (inch/second)
1 slow (intermediate) 1 1/4 - 1 3/4 ips
2 fast 2 1/2 - 3 ips
3 extra fast 3 1/2 - 4 ips
4 super sinker 4 1/4 - 5 ips
5 super fast 5 1/4 - 6 ips
6 extra super sinker 6 1/4 - 7 ips
What are you fishing for? My guess with an 8 wt. and sub-surface you may want a slow or Intermediate sink. Intermediates cast almost as easy as a WFF.
Sinking lines sink. You will have to roll cast the line to get it to the surface and then quickly move to the pick-up and cast before it sinks again. Only 1 backcast and then forward, a little slower and a little more open…also called “chuck and duck” 
Good advice from the Lady. Personally, I would go for the intermediate sink, maybe a type 2. The inter is a very versatile tool. It will still sink deep as LF says but you just have to count a few more seconds, not a big hassle in a lake, as you have the time generally.
A sink tip you can more or less replicate with flouro leaders and some weight on a floating line. Don’t forget you need an extra spool for each of these lines, that it the big expense.
One last thought, this week I got to fish some cheap sink lines against some good branded ones, and don’t buy cheap. They sink at different rates, are generally all over the place. You get what you pay for so if you had an intemediate and some flouro leaders and weights you are well on the way.
I will primarily using this combo for bass in the local lakes, however I may try also for pickerel/pike and musky. And use it for smallies on the susquehanna. Bob Clouser Jr, reccommended type 2. I heard the sink tips are easier to cast, but have the hinge effect and are hard to detect strikes.
The hinge effect does come into play when you are really trying to get it down. I fish local reservoirs for smallies, largemouths and pickeral (one of these days Ill get a pike) and in the warmer months Ill seriously wait 30 seconds before starting my retrieve in an attempt to get the fly down. I still catch fish but definately dont get as good of a hookset as when the fish are shallower in the spring and fall. I am planning on going to a full sink next season. Im going to keep my sink tip for river and stream fishing but I think a full sink will help me out a good deal. Just my experiences, take care.
I use both. My 8 wgt has one spool with an intermediate sinking line. My 6 wgt I have a spool with a 15 ft sink tip and one with a full sinking Orvis Depth Charge line. Depends on where you’re fishing what you’re fishing for. If I want to cover the water column from the surface to about 5 feet down I like the intermediate, particularly in salt water. With an intermediate you can fish a surface fly like a popper or banger, have to strip it a bit faster to keep ahead of the shrink rate, but it gives you that option. I use the sink tip on my 6 wgt, mainly in fresh water, where I might be fishing water in water 5 to 10 feet deep. The 6 wgt full sinking line I use in both fresh and salt water. I’ve actually used in depths as shallow as 3 feet. I like to use it where I want to keep a fly close to the bottom. I’m not a big fan of weighted flies.
I also like to use it when fishing a floating fly, like a Crease fly.
As far as casting, it’s probably my casting style and bad habits, but I find it easier to cast the sinking lines, especially down the shore where I’m more likely to run into wind than a floating line.
As far as detecting strikes, I’m usually using a bait fish pattern when I fishing the sinking lines or a pattern that requires some type of movement to be effective, though I will admit to more than once letting the line sit and finding that I had a fish attached when I lifted the line or started my retrieve.
I have a separate reel with full sink line on it, and now use it only on lakes from a float tube. I have a spoool of sink-tip, and use it only rarely now-- instead for most rivers I use my favorite reel with floating line, and tie on a sink tip section from 6 to 20 feet, as needed. I keep the sink sections in my leader book. MUCH easier than switching reels or spools. The rivers here are not all that deep so it works great.
DANBOB
I have a new SA 8’ sinktip that has no noticeable hinge effect. It’s the first sinktip I ever bought due to casting some that were horrible. However, the shop owner assured me that if I wasn’t happy with the line, he’d refund my money. I still have the line, and use it often.
Dear jkilroy,
One other thing to consider is a multi-tip line. Most have 15 to 24 foot interchangeable heads that come in floating, intermediate, type II, and type 4 or 5. This will allow you to fish just about any depth.
As far as hingeing goes, yes there is some with a multi-tip but you can learn to handle that. To aid in strike detection with any sinking line use a short leader. For bass and warm water fish all you need is 2 to 3 feet of straight mono in a suitable pound test, 8 to 12 pound test works just fine.
I’d personally steer away from a full sinking line in the Susquehanna unless you really like to tie flies or you have a lot of money to buy flies to replace the ones you lose. There are just too many rocks and ledges out there.
Regards,
Tim Murphy
I haven’t heard anything about Teeny line. Anybody like that?
jkilroy,
Of the fish you mention, those that we do fish for, is done very much mostly with a floating line or else we go to LC for LOTS of depth. We generally rip some baitfish pattern for most of’em. Most type two presenting we do by fudgeing some way with a floater. We have never done muskies. We toss lots of shooting heads, from floaters to LC, which is an option for maximum water coverage versatility with minimum gear expenditure. We have used the “Teeny type” lines and find them to be VERY user friendly (generally more so when “new to the sport”), but very expensive and unnecessary in our quiver.
And re-reading your question, I would go with a Teeny 300 for ease of handling, depth desired, and the ability to mend the floating section when necessary.
…
[This message has been edited by lee s (edited 26 December 2005).]
[This message has been edited by lee s (edited 26 December 2005).]
As Tim sez, “consider the multi-tip”. I use both full sinking (Type III) and the Rio multi-tip with tips ranging from floating to really fast sinking. The only thing I don’t like about the multi-tip is the rattling that the loop hinge makes shooting out through the guides when you cast. I do like the versatility of having 4 different lines in my pocket and not having to carry (or pay for BTW) 4 spools w/individual line properties.
The full sinking line casts quite easily as does the Rio. I see little difference there - however, those of you who have seen my casting know that I could make any line look like a bad caster!!
There’s snow on the roof but the fire still burns in the oven.
The advantage of a full sinking line is that it will keep the fly deeper, longer. The disadvantage is line control. It is virtually impossible to mend a full sinking line.
For many lake fishing or saltwater fishing situations I think the full sinker might be the better choice. I beleive for stream fishing however, you are better off using a sink tip line.
For smaller shallower waters a 5’ mini tip would probally work fine. If you are fishing larger deeper waters then you might want to use a 10’, 15’ or even a 24’ or 30’ sink tip. The longer the sinking section the deeper the fly will stay suspended while being retreived.
Next you have to consider line density. This is the sink rate of the fly line. The deeper the fly needs to be presented, the higher the line density.
Sinking lines are based on sink rates per second. Starting with the slowest sinker which is a intermediate line, then a type 1 thru a type 6. With each type of line sinking faster then the next. The fastest sinking lines are “lead core”.
Teeney lines were originally created to fish for Salmon and Steelhead during periods of high water. Allowing the fly to sink quickly but still allow for line control. They now expanded their line models to cover any angling situiation. I have had great success with them over the years and they cast well.
You may have to have a number of different sinking lines to cover all situiations you might encounter. Rob
I want to have two lines only for the 8wt. Obviously floating and the second to be determined. Max depth 15’. I don’t want a line that has a hinge effect. It will be primarly for local lakes, however I will use it on the river and when I go for saltwater, until I have a 9wt set-up. I want a line that is easy to cast.
The hinge effect on sink tip lines is much more pronounced on the heavier sinking lines than a slow sinker. The Teeny lines are usually 30’ sink tips, and pretty good lines. Scientific Angler’s make a few differnt lengths and weight sinktips.
If you are fishing at 15’ deep maximum, and want to use it in lakes, streams, and saltwater, I would have to suggest the 15’ sink tip. Not only does the weighted tip sink, the running line will get pulled down with the tip some, add a 3’ leader and 15’ depth will be about as deep as you can effectivly fish a streamer. A full sinking line will get to the bottom better, but when you are on a stream you cannot mend a full sinking line worth a darn (at least I cant). Keep in mind that if you are looking for one line to do it all, compromises will be made somewhere. I too have two lines for my #8, a WF floater, and a SA 15 type 4 sink tip.
Have fun, Jeff
Tis my time on the water, in the mountains, and in my driftboat where I can see things as they really are.
The main reason that I like a sink tip over a full sink is the angle that it gives between you and the fly. A full sink will belly out in the water and you can’t feel the fly as well as with a sink tip. With a sink tip it is more of a straight line between you and your fly.
Like Jeff says, with any line you will have to compromise. If it was me I would buy a Teeny T 200 line. It will get your fly down 15’ and will cast well on your 8 weight. They also roll cast pretty well, not much hinging.
Remember though in shallower water you will have to retreive faster to keep your fly off the bottom. A line with less density then a T 200 probally won’t get deep enough for you.
Rob
A floater and a Teeny line it would be then. With the “T” line you are casting the 24’ head, thus no hinge. You can mend the floating running line, thus good in moving water. Will handily reach the 15’ depth you desire. Just opinion of an old EYEtalian, though, who has used a bunch of the stuff querried. I would opt for the T-300 though…? We toss the T-200 on our 5wt and the T-300 on our 7wt.
…lee s.
Lee, my only problem with the T 300 would be when fishing in shallower water. That line really sinks like a rock. That why for a “compromise” line I think the T 200 is a bit more versatile. Teeny rates a T 200 for 5-8 wt rods. Rob
Benjo,
If that’s the only reason how about a uniform sink [density compensated] full sinking line?