Hello,
I’ve known of folks dropping the but section from multi-piece rods to make a shorter rod. The only way I can think of to figure out the line weight accurately would be to use the Common Cents System. If you haven’t heard of this system before, it is a way to determine a rods line weight and action. It really does work, as I’ve tested some of my rods using this system.
Here are some links for info on this system. http://www.common-cents.info/ http://www.superbob.org/CC.htm
The second link is to the page with actual rod test data. I have used this for reference many time. There are tests on Dan Craft blanks there with the butt section dropped to make a shorter rod. Hope this helps you out a bit.
To build a shorter rod the line weight stays the same as long as you remove the butt section not the tip. It is simply a matter of purchasing say a 5 piece rod and building the top four pieces.
Even better yet purchase to identical 5 piece blanks say 9’ 5wt and use the 4th section of the second blank to place a second handle & reel seat. This produces a 6 piece outfit that can be assembled full length or shorter version. Guide spacing gets tricky but can be accomplished - I have done it a few times. The trick would be to obtain the fourth section without the purchase price of the second blank.
The St Croix and Lamiglass are the most expensive. The ones marked * are
off the Hook & Hackle web site an the model #'s may be theirs. Those marked ** are off Schnieder rods. For best combination of qualty and price , I would go with either the PacBay, Rainshadow or Tiger Eye blanks. The PacBay BL-TRF805-4 is on sale at Schnieder. This is a very nice discontinued blank.