I’m considering changing from the inexpensive Double Taper line that I’m using now to a WF5F Cortland Precision Dyna-Tip Trout Fly Line. They were talking about it on Fly Fishing radio today and it sounds freakin’ amazing.
However, On the rivers where I tend to fish I’m doing one of 2 things: I’m either doing a regular cast from the middle of the river OR I’m roll casting from near the bank. Most of the places I go to have pretty thick brush or trees on the bank so I can only do a regular cast up and down river, but not towards the middle of the river.
I know that a DT line will roll cast better, However (again with the “however”) when I roll cast I’m usually only casting 20 to 25 feet.
So my question is: Is the thick part of the taper of a WF line sufficient in the front 20 feet to still help me roll cast? I know it will help my long cast quite a bit. But I don’t want to lose one to gain the other.
Yes, you shouldnt have any probs roll casting at that distance. I use WF lines exclusivly here in NZ and find little problem roll casting at most fishing distances. Learn to throw a haul in with your roll cast, or dynamic roll, and further distances will come more easily.
I roll cast WF lines all the time. Many of the lakes and streams I fish are tree lined and RC is the best thing going. I can generally RC 20+ feet with WF line with no problem.
At the distances your talking about you should be able to roll cast a WF line with no trouble. That being said I tend to thing you should also be able to use a DT equally as well for what your describing. I have a preference for DT even if I’m not roll casting. I like the way it handles and lands on the water better than WF. My discalmer is I still keep a spool of WF around for time’s when it’s really windy or I feel like I need distance but I’m not getting it.
If you’ve just got to own the line then I recommend you consider another spool for your reel and give it a try. If you find it does’t work given your style of casting or conditions save it to fish other places that you think need the increased distance.
The difference in WF and DT for roll casting is negligible unless you are talking about the extremes of WF distance casting lines and you’ve got more than a few feet of line out of the rod tip.
Sounds like good advice. I was concerned that the WF would have a longer taper at the tip and for those short roll cast I wouldn’t have enough line weight to throw the loop (because I’d essentially be throwing the tip rather than the body of the line.) But it sounds like thta’s not goign to be an issue.
Cool! Now I just have to justify spending $65 on a new fly line to my wife. :shock:
All else equal, within the first 30’ of line, a DT and WF are exactly the same.
Different line manufacturers do use different tapers, but just by itself a DT and WF can have the same tapers.
FWIW, the line you’re talking about is a WF, with a long-belly taper. I use the line on all my graphites. The tip will float well, but will eventually sink. Dry it off, put some mucilin on there, and you’ll be good to go for a bunch more hours.
DruLee - I also fish where it is hard to cast the center of the river. Lefty Kreh shows a Right Angle cast in “Modern Fly-casting Methods”. You are casting paralell to the shore, just a normal back cast, but with a little arm extension to assist. Just as your rod hand passes your face, turn your rod hand toward the right-angle target. Do not accelerate the rod until after the rod hand is fully turned toward the target. This actually works after a little practice. According to Lefty, it is good for about 35 feet.
I’m not that great of a roll caster (i’m working on it). I don’t notice any difference between WF or DT. I think you might if you could make long roll casts, but I don’t worry about that.
