I’m building my first fly rod and I have a newbie question about the attachment of the rod blank to the cork handle/reel seat. The cork handle is approximately 7 1/2" in length. The reel seat is about 3 1/2" After reaming out the cork hole so the blank can be fitted how much of the blank extends into the reel seat after it has been glued to the end of the cork handle? All the way to the butt? Half way(1"-2"?) If the rod blank doesn’t extend all the to the butt what material is recommended to fill in the “space?” I hope this makes sense.
For strength I like to extend the blank all the way to the bottom of the reel seat. I also like to fine tune the length of the butt section so the finished rod sections are all exactly the same length when placed side by side in the rod sock. Some times this requires som slight triming of the tip section or butt section (by slight I mean 1/4" to 3/8", cutting more might effect the rods action.)
Keeping the sections all the same length matches the common practice on commercially produced rods, plus it prevents any sections from sticking out from thier neighbors in the tube, which might make them more prone to damage.
I run the butt sections all the way into the seat. There are graphite spacers made which you epoxy into the reel seat. People also wrap masking tape or mesh drywall tape around the but section as a filler, but I think the graphite spacers transmit feel to your hand better. Ditchdoc
Most start out attaching the reel seat with epoxy by building up the rod blank with 4 wraps of masking tape to the ID of the reel seat as one has already mentioned The blank is all the way thru to the (cap) rear of the seat. Epoxy it in place then you ream out the cork handle to fit up to the reel seat. When you first begin a rod you should check for the spline (I know some dont) and that will determine where to place the guides. The reel seat hood alignment should be in line with the spline of the rod. BILL
Can anyone offer any thoughts on the epoxy to use when attaching reelseat? Is there an acceptable adhesive which could be found in the average hardware store? What about an epoxy to use in gluing up the cork grip and attaching it to the blank?
Tim if you feel 5 minutes isnt enough time ,buy anything but that at your local hardware that you feel you can mix with even amounts. Use it for the reel seat and cork.–Rod kits from Cabelas come with 2 easy mix packets of epoxy and rod finnish. One packet for the reel seat one for the cork handle. Everyone interested in rod building should get Cabelas “Tackle Craft” catalog for supplies and building instructions. BILL
I use 60 minute epoxy to attach the cork handle and reel seat. I used to use 5 minute epoxy until I discovered a mistake after about 6 minutes. Hardware store epoxy is fine for this, but not the wraps.
Ask any Chemist - with epoxy the slower the dry the stronger the bond.
I use the slow dry epoxy for both reel seat and cork and then the 5-minute stuff for the tiptop. The one draw back is once the reel seat and Cork handle is in place the only way I have had one come off is when I had to cut it off! Replacement becomes a real chore.
As for tiptop usually the hot melt glue is best - but if you live in Arizona it just doesn’t cut it for obvious reasons. The 5-minute still allows removal and doesn’t melt away mid-stream.
Guys, you’ve been very helpful. Thank you. Looks like the 60 minute epoxy will do for the seat and grip, would you use Titebond for gluing up the individual cork rings to make the grip? Pretty sure this is the process but I need to hear from the experts. :lol: